Tore

Got a 1987 Buick Regal Limited and keeps stalling after warming up. After stalling let rest a few mins and fire right back up and can go maybe a mile and stall out again. Manual fuel pump was replaced ~9 months ago. Changes out throttle position senor. All new wires and spark plugs along with distributor cap and coil. Help! Thanks

tru-blue 442

Did you replace this? The problem sounds like you may need a new one. I WOULDN'T SUGGEST THE EPAY POS THOUGH.
Check with Napa, they may have a quality part, good luck.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/39510483740...7CMake%3ABuick

leftlaneonly

Fuel filter clogging maybe

Tore

Fuel Filter clean

69CSHC

Does she have a catalytic converter ?

Tore

Yes

olds 307 and 403

For one, you need a 7 pin, not a 4 module but it is probably fine. Any check engine light on?

Sugar Bear

Before firing the parts cannon at it try to determine if it is either spark or fuel related. Start by preparing to check the spark on the road then testing it now so you can then later gauge if the spark has weakened or completely stopped immediately after it stalls. If spark remains then it is likely fuel related.

Two out of the ordinary issues I've seen are EGR valves hanging open causing a massive vacuum leak and partially clogged fuel strainer/socks in the tank.

By diagnosing it you'll save time, money and most importantly not replace high quality old school parts with chinesium stuff.

Tore

Not after I changed out the TPS.

Sugar Bear

Did you adjust the new TPS?

Tore

No

Sugar Bear

You might get lucky and find that it is in range but it should be checked and adjusted if needed. Your car has Computer Command Control which when everything is tuned and adjusted properly runs quite well; BUT, if anything is out-of-adjustment it impacts many other parameters and makes a big difference. I wouldn't make any other adjustments until the TPS is properly adjusted.

Tore

How do you adjust its inside the carburetor.

Sugar Bear

There is a tiny hex head screw (it may be capped/covered) under the rear of the rocker arm that actuates the accelerator pump. Using a digital VOM across the leads to the TPS you first measure and then adjust the screw to the correct voltage.

BillK

The TPS wouldnt cause it to just stall like that when it gets hot. I have probably changed 10 of them over the years and they have never needed readjusting. You are either losing spark or fuel. If the distributor is all original it would be a good bet that the module is giving up but if you could check it quickly when it stops you would be sure. I would suggest finding an AC Delco module as compared to aftermarket.

Sugar Bear

Agree with TPS not causing stalling. Still should be checked and adjusted if needed though.

Tore

Going to try ignition control module.

tru-blue 442

Let us know how it all turns out.

Tore

Alright, so changed out ignition module and still stalling after 20 min drive. When I started to feel it stalling I let off throttle a bit and kept running for a little while until I pushed throttle harder then stalled. When I got it back home I let idle and after about 10-15 min stalled out. And of coarse let sit for a little while fires right back up but will stall after about a mile of driving. Car only has 27,000 miles on it if that matters.



​Changed out plugs 0.0600 gap along with wires, coil, and now ignition module. New TPS. Fuel filter is clean. Fuel pump changed maybe 9 months ago.

Hammerdrop

You need to determine if you are losing spark or fuel. That would narrow things down.

gs72

Or just load the parts cannon and keep going.

Tore

Its not spark checked it out when stalled and still getting spark.

Olds64

Next time it stalls activate the throttle 1 time and you should see your accelerator pump squirt fuel into the carburetor venturi.

Tore

Right after stalling no gas to carb but leave it for a min and gas is getting there. Plugged the egr vacuum line to rule that out.

Sugar Bear

Some possibilities sticking valve in fuel filter, blocked fuel vent, failing fuel pump ??? Try running with fuel cap loose. Is there excess vacuum in the tank when this happens, does it pull in a rush of air if you open the cap when this occurs?

Narrowing it to fuel is very helpful.

Tore

I took check valve out of filter.

I don't hear anything from fuel cap

Sugar Bear

The sock on the sending unit could be clogged. Does how much fuel is in the tank seem to affect it, better on a full tank vs. a 1/4? Examine the rubber hoses at the fuel pump and the tank very closely for dry rot/cracking.

olds 307 and 403

I actually had similar happen with a brand new Carter fuel pump on an Olds 307. It would run fine then slowly get worse and really starve for fuel after probably a 20 minute drive. Eliminate the rubber fuel hoses, check them over and replace as necessary. I had that happen on a chebby truck. Ran fine for the most part but was a bitch to cold start. It could be a fuel pump going out.