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The original 350 in my 72 Cutlass is tired and using oil. It's been a long time coming but this weekend me and my boys are finally going to swap it out with another 350 that I picked up from one of our members, allowing us the time to build the original at our pace while still enjoying the car. We cleaned up the donor, replaced gaskets and painted it. We are upgrading the 2bbl with a factory cast iron intake and quadrajet. For those of you that have replaced engines in this model I'm just wondering if there are any quirky things that I may run into other than the typical rusty bolts etc. Any tricks that can help me out prior to figuring it out myself lol.
It was pretty crusty on the outside but I was amazed on how the inside looked. The timing gears had little to no wear but we still replaced them.
First, I wouldn't run a fuel filter on the pressure side of the pump with rubber hose. IMO it is a fire hazard...seen it happen.
Soak ALL of the manifold bolts several times by warming the engine, soak them again and walk away then repeat, and yes be careful of fire here too but it is unlikely.
When disassembling the other engine take note of the oil galley plugs, one by the timing chain and one in the distributor hole have orifices and it is CRITICAL that go back in the correct location.
Interesting to know about the fuel filter. Would you recommend no inline filter and just utilize the filter in the fitting? Or relocate the inline and still use the filter in the inlet?
I'd locate the filter just before the pump, hard line the supply line to the carb as factory. I'd try leaving the filter out of the carb inlet nut. I do wonder if leaving the factory filter would cause a flow/directional problem with the needle valve, probably wouldn't let's see what others say.
I'd locate the filter just before the pump, hard line the supply line to the carb as factory. I'd try leaving the filter out of the carb inlet nut. I do wonder if leaving the factory filter would cause a flow/directional problem with the needle valve, probably wouldn't let's see what others say.
Good luck!!!
Thanks for the info! I'll relocate the filter before we drop it in.
If that is a pic of the timing sprocket you took out, I'd say that is a low mileage engine, There are lots of thoughts about fuel filters. I always thought that filters were always on the pressure side from factory, and all original cars/trucks I have seen were. ( except the sock pickup in the tank). Well to each his own. I am still using the original style in the carb, but of course it is risky with the 50 year old threads....
My concern with fuel filters on the pressure side is when they are installed with clamped rubber hoses that are susceptible to leakage that could spray gasoline on a hot engine. If the filter is plumbed in with hard lines it would be safer.
I used the Seymour Gold in the rattle can from OPGI, as this was just a "inexpensive" clean up. When I rebuild the original motor I plan on using Hirsch Gold.
That round thing…with what looks like, uh, teeth on it. What is it? None of mine seem to have those teeth thingies. They do have what looks like a sintered plastic oil pre-filter on them though.
April 20th, 2023, 05:57 PM
