78cutlass

Who's used a '69 Olds 350 engine as a street motor? If so, how did you like the performance of that particular year olds 350? I'm building one for a '78 Cutlass - shooting for 350 horses & 9.1 compression.

captjim

I have a 71 350 in my wagon, which is a bit heavier than your 78. Very similar build, probably 325 hp, runs high 13s with a 3.42 gear. Simple, reliable, responsive, reasonable economical, and fun to drive. I shift at 4600, no need to wind it up and break stuff. Here is a link to the specs if you are interested,

http://72.22.90.30/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=28012

J-(Chicago)

I'm using a 350 as a street motor too. The build should be done by the end of March. I just had my connecting rods shot peened and resized this week. I'll shoot out some specs when it all bolts together. It will be along the lines of Captjim's, horsepower wise but at the same time, a totally different build. I'm using 7a heads and pushing for about 9.8:1 compression.

78cutlass

captjim,
sounds like a smooth runnin' "warmed over" Olds 350. That's exactly what I want, something that runs smooth, but can easily light the back tires. Those G-Body S/W's are nice. I'd like to find a clean one to build some day. I have another SMO motor tucked away for a worthy donor car.

dar83501

clean 2 door hardtop G-Bodies are nigh impossible to find. I have vicious junkyard dogs on chains guarding mine 24/7. About once a month I have someone beating on the door wanting the Cutlass.

Mine's one of about three in good shape that I've seen in the valley...and I gaurantee none of them have a 455 lurking inside, haha.

Oldsguy

J-

I know what shot peening is and why it is done but was just wondering if anyone could answer this question. Is shot peening a process that is always done on the rods? And if so, is it really always necessary or just a good precaution against stress cracks and not that expensive, so might as well do it kind of thing?

captjim

Not down here, they are all over the place. Low mileage, very little rust. I just picked up a '79 (my favorite year) straight, no rust, great interior, for $500 with a blown engine.

J-(Chicago)

It's just one of those things that wasn't worth gambling on in my opinion. There are requirements in all industries for metallic strength etc. etc. Aircraft and aerospace especially. My motor was sitting under a deck for 4 years and the connecting rods were getting cut and resized so it was a worry-free must for me.
The best place for your question would be at www.shotpeener.com
It's basically like a classicolds forum, only it's about shotpeening.
Here is the email address for expert answers to questions about it. jack.champaigne@shotpeener.com
Hopefully, We'll all learn more from your question.

Redog

Mine is a '68 350.

Mine is all stock expect for the intake manifold and other little things like that.

My Delta weighs 4070 with me in it and it runs 15.8 @ 88.86 in the 1/4 mile. That is roughly 268 HP at the crank.

That is a drag calulator number. a few different ones said the same thing. I have yet to Dyno the car

J-(Chicago)

Was that on a 4 corner scale?

Oh yeah, and what rear end gears are in Onyx Jet?

dar83501

crank horsepower means nothing though, what are you putting to the ground?

captjim

Your MPH is high for the ET, probably the gears, That thing has a high 14 in it!!