76 Cutlass Supreme v350 Oil Light
#41
Got some good news today from the Machine Shop- the rebuilt engine is now being tested on the dyno machine. He also got some pics of the work and my original crankshaft with spun rod bearing. Getting very close to driving my car again.
Original crankshaft taken out from engine
New refinished crankshaft
Original crankshaft spun rod bearing
Original crankshaft taken out from engine
New refinished crankshaft
Original crankshaft spun rod bearing
#43
Dyno Results
Itemized Breakdown
Last edited by Kramer; September 4th, 2023 at 07:49 PM.
#46
8.5:1 Compression ratio with 78cc cylinder head chamber volume
42-229-4 Comp Cams Hi-Energy camshaft featuring: .456" lift intake/exhaust, 268 duration
intake/exhaust, 110 degree lobe seperation, 106 degree intake centerline.
#47
Cool, it will be more fun for sure, much better than the factory peanut cam. My #8 heads measured that uncut but they do vary, no doubt. I'm sure they opened the bowls on tbose heads, most restrictive part. I would suggest a mild torque converter upgrade, 2000+ stall. That factory 1600 stall sucks with anything other than a stock cam. Nice numbers!
#48
Cool, it will be more fun for sure, much better than the factory peanut cam. My #8 heads measured that uncut but they do vary, no doubt. I'm sure they opened the bowls on tbose heads, most restrictive part. I would suggest a mild torque converter upgrade, 2000+ stall. That factory 1600 stall sucks with anything other than a stock cam. Nice numbers!
#49
Hey folks need help. After installing the rebuilt engine back my mechanic can't seem to get the car to run well. At first the car wouldn't even start up easily so we replaced my original carburetor with a remanufactured Rochester one from RockAuto. That made a big difference accordingly to my mechanic, but still not how it should be even after adjusting the air/fuel mixture screws. He said he's check for vacuum leaks and there are none and he just can't figure it out. Right now he is in contact with the Machine Shop who rebuilt the engine to see if they have any idea what is causing poor idle. Could it be something related to rebuild (i.e values)? Any idea what else my mechanic can try to fix the issue. FyI- before the rebuild I didn't have this problem starting and running the car
#51
found a thread on here with similar issue after rebuild eventually he replaced 5 gallons of fresh gas and that did the trick for him. My gas is probably from last august and I did put fuel stabilizer in before parking it up for season. Maybe I should try replacing gas and see what happens.
#52
For a mid 70's Qjet, that cam and even a small compression bump will idle like ****. The Holley reman Qjet worked good on a stock 307 with headers. On a 403 with a 204/214 and headers, it idled fair at best. It was calibrated very lean everywhere when I pulled it apart. I put the same carb on a 350, same cam with 9.6 to 1, it wouldn't even idle. The idle circuits need enlarged to run right with that cam. I have a pretty fresh Qjet that I rebuilt last year with Cliff's HP kit, new float and modified idle circuits, the primary metering that is completely tuneable with a small standard screwdriver. PM me if interested, I just pulled it off the 403 and am going SEFI on my 358. I assume your mechanic is running stock timing specs?
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; September 1st, 2023 at 04:15 PM.
#53
For a mid 70's Qjet, that cam and even a small compression bump will idle like ****. The Holley reman Qjet worked good on a stock 307 with headers. On a 403 with a 204/214 and headers, it idled fair at best. It was calibrated very lean everywhere when I pulled it apart. I put the same carb on a 350, same cam with 9.6 to 1, it wouldn't even idle. The idle circuits need enlarged to run right with that cam. I have a pretty fresh Qjet that I rebuilt last year with Cliff's HP kit, new float and modified idle circuits, the primary metering that is completely tuneable with a small standard screwdriver. PM me if interested, I just pulled it off the 403 and am going SEFI on my 358. I assume your mechanic is running stock timing specs?
Machine Shop told me they had rebuilt a 350 to stock so did not expect these issues.
#57
#58
So my mechanic who reinstalled the rebuilt engine was showing me the clacking he is observing when car is warmed up. One of the videos is before we took it out for a short ride and there is no clacking more rumbling if anything. Then during drive at stop sign we could hear clacking under the hood. Once we got back and parked up and popped the hood noise was more audible. Maybe it is the locker arms? Long story short we spoke with the machine shop and they want me to tow the car to their trusted mechanic nearby them for an assessment. So will try to have it towed over tomorrow and go from there. Unfortunately I still have yet to drive my car since this whole rebuild project started 6 months ago
#60
#62
good compression in cylinders, spark plugs on driver side look a little wet (noise is also on driver side of engine), no contribution from 5 & 7 cylinders. Will get more updates next week...
#63
If you used an Edelbrock intake, it may be leaking along the intake ports. I had this problem once. Remove the intake, clean all gasket surfaces, then set the intake in and kick it all the way to each side. While it is against the head, observe the mating surfaces and make sure there's no funny business. My Performer needed cout from 0 at the bottom to 0.065 at the top to correct the valley angle. Check your oil as mine mikshaked and trashed the bearings.
#64
If you used an Edelbrock intake, it may be leaking along the intake ports. I had this problem once. Remove the intake, clean all gasket surfaces, then set the intake in and kick it all the way to each side. While it is against the head, observe the mating surfaces and make sure there's no funny business. My Performer needed cout from 0 at the bottom to 0.065 at the top to correct the valley angle. Check your oil as mine mikshaked and trashed the bearings.
#65
If you used an Edelbrock intake, it may be leaking along the intake ports. I had this problem once. Remove the intake, clean all gasket surfaces, then set the intake in and kick it all the way to each side. While it is against the head, observe the mating surfaces and make sure there's no funny business. My Performer needed cout from 0 at the bottom to 0.065 at the top to correct the valley angle. Check your oil as mine mikshaked and trashed the bearings.
#66
Any update on your engine? Sorry for your terrible luck with engines. I had to rebuild an engine in one car three times before it was right. My take away is always take your engine to the best guy nationally...Sometimes there's maybe 2-3 engine builders in the country that specialize in a particular type of engine (Olds, Pontiac, whatever). Its worth the shipping costs, delays, etc. There are thousands of nit wits out there that claim they know how to build engines, and they don't.
Not that I know much either - but that last video sounds like valve train geometry problem. If I were to guess I suspect the machine shop didn't verify the correct push rod length needed with the new cam, lifters resurfacing the heads, etc... then when it starts running things can start binding up, and maybe you bent a push rod. Alternatively maybe something just came loose like a rocker arm, but usually its because of valvetrain geometry problems. But just speculation on my part - but also from school of hard knocks.
Not that I know much either - but that last video sounds like valve train geometry problem. If I were to guess I suspect the machine shop didn't verify the correct push rod length needed with the new cam, lifters resurfacing the heads, etc... then when it starts running things can start binding up, and maybe you bent a push rod. Alternatively maybe something just came loose like a rocker arm, but usually its because of valvetrain geometry problems. But just speculation on my part - but also from school of hard knocks.
Last edited by getmygoat; December 16th, 2023 at 08:08 PM.
#67
Any update on your engine? Sorry for your terrible luck with engines. I had to rebuild an engine in one car three times before it was right. My take away is always take your engine to the best guy nationally...Sometimes there's maybe 2-3 engine builders in the country that specialize in a particular type of engine (Olds, Pontiac, whatever). Its worth the shipping costs, delays, etc. There are thousands of nit wits out there that claim they know how to build engines, and they don't.
Not that I know much either - but that last video sounds like valve train geometry problem. If I were to guess I suspect the machine shop didn't verify the correct push rod length needed with the new cam, lifters resurfacing the heads, etc... then when it starts running things can start binding up, and maybe you bent a push rod. Alternatively maybe something just came loose like a rocker arm, but usually it's o I because of valvetrain geometry problems. But just speculation on my part - but also from school of hard knocks.
Not that I know much either - but that last video sounds like valve train geometry problem. If I were to guess I suspect the machine shop didn't verify the correct push rod length needed with the new cam, lifters resurfacing the heads, etc... then when it starts running things can start binding up, and maybe you bent a push rod. Alternatively maybe something just came loose like a rocker arm, but usually it's o I because of valvetrain geometry problems. But just speculation on my part - but also from school of hard knocks.
1. one of the ignition wire was faulty even though it was brand new
2. all lifters were changed cuz one or two where sticky
3. ignition timing adjusted
4. therm vacuum wasn't working
5. and something to do with ported vacuum switch
On the auto shops invoice which I did not pay for anything, it also list the following:
1. replace stat and gasket...repair leak at water pump....install new heater bypass hose
2. replace manifold gaskets and fuel pump gaskets
3. install new Delco wire set and loom
4. oil change...Lucas hot rod 10W40
I am not very knowledgeable when it comes to cars, so I don't have a clear understanding of why did things happen in first place and eventually how was it addressed. I appreciate the machine shop taking ownership and effort to resolve issue. Unfortunately I did not get to drive it a lot before putting it away for the season, but I hope my troubles are behind me now! Here is a short clip of car running when on day I picked up the car from auto shop.
#68
Good to hear. How is your oil pressure? It sounds pretty good in the video, idle sounds a bit high. Hopefully it was just some bad lifters. I assume it is night and day more powerful than the original motor?
#69
They told me oil pressure was fine. I don't have an oil pressure gauge so can't check myself. Cold start up is noticeably better, one tap on gas pedal and car starts up nicely. I didn't do much city driving mostly highway for the limited time I had the car, but felt stronger. having said so I look forward to next season to get a better opportunity to 'test' things out.
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