MDchanic

Greetings, all.

I recently picked up a running, usable '68 10¼:1 motor and I noticed that it had a new timing set, RTV sealant around the intake, and new rockers and rocker pivots. Boys being boys, I had to have the question answered: Did somebody replace the cam?

The answer, of course, was Yes, and I now have a new-looking but nicely broken-in cam and another burning question: What cam do I have (and is it a good cam for my purposes)?

The back end of the cam has the stamped numbers E188 and 299250 (or maybe 238250, or 298250, or...?).

There are casting numbers between the lobes in a few places -
Near the front the foundry identifier CWC --- 1703
Near the back 10 --- B8 and C8 --- D5.





Thanks,

- Eric

krooser

CWC is the largest cam blank manufacturer in the US....

MDchanic

Yeah, I know they make most of the blanks, but I want to know who ground it .

The "E" makes me think of Erson, but I just haven't seen that many aftermarket cams.

- Eric

J-(Chicago)

The best way to i.d. any cam is to measure it. It doesn't matter what it was or is "supposed to be".....what matters, is what it actually consists of. I think you already know that though. Mic the lobes, and throw a degree wheel on it.

MDchanic

As I suspected, Mark's got it:

"It's probably a generic grind from Elgin.
Erson actually stamps "Erson" on their cores...
Lobe lifts on the generic stuff are .280, .295, .310 and .325...
Those are all on wide lobe seps so no that wouldn't be the best cam for your ride."

That answers my question - low-grade cam that's not well suited for my application (and no dial indicator needed ).
I'll probably talk to Mark about what might work better.

If anybody wants this one, I'd be glad to sell it for a good price - I could even drag out that dial indicator...).


Thanks to Mark and to J and Krooser as well.

- Eric

380 Racer

If you could find someplace in your area that has a cam doctor, they could tell you exactly the specs you have.

MDchanic

True enough, but I'm willing to take Mark at his word that this is a generic grind not optimized for the specifics of my engine or car, and that I can therefore do much better with a different cam, regardless of the exact details of this particular grind, so I'm happy leaving well enough alone.

- Eric

krooser

Nothing wrong with Elgin cams... good quality at a good price. There are quite a few circle track guys around here using them and winning with them. I wouldn't be surprised if Elgin grinds cams for some of the big cam companies... they grind cams for many OEM's.

cutlassefi

Yes they are but I don't think that's the point. The point is that it's most probably the wrong grind for his application.

MDchanic

Thank you, Mark.

... And if I wanted to run my 5,000 pound convertible on a circle track, I'd consider one .

But, yeah, I'm not looking for "performance," I'm looking for "factory cam plus 45 years of accumulated knowledge."
I want it to do pretty much exactly what the original cam did, but as well as possible in the light of modern engineering.

Like I said, if anyone wants to take a shot at using the old one, it's cheap and in good shape.

- Eric

krooser

Well a factory cam from the 70's won't have "45 years of accumulated knowledge"... it would have 1970 knowledge no matter what the cam grinders description is in the catalog. I don't think many can grinders are spending tons of $$$ on research trying to come up with the ultimate street grind for land barges!!!!

I agree with cutlassefi that it probably isn't the right grind... you'll need a near stock cam if you want original performance... but just because this isn't a "name" brand cam doesn't mean it isn't a quality piece.

It really funny to me that there's so much "voodoo magic" associated with cam design... I don't know too many guys who tune their engines on the dyno before they stuff 'em under the hood. I know some do but the average schmoo usually buys whatever the catalog sez is right for his car... right or wrong.

I guess my opinions are slightly jaded after working on this stuff for 50 plus years. I really don't want to take what a 20 year old at the other end of the phone tells me is the "hot set-up"... I like getting several opinions from folks who know the HP end of an engine.

End of my rambling....

MDchanic

I'm a pretty smart guy, but I wil admit I am not an expert on cams.

Fortunately, Mark is very experienced in this area, and specifically with Oldsmobiles, is competent and (I believe) reasonably trustworthy, and grinds cams specifically based on the requirements of the application.
I have watched his comments on the forum over the past few years, and he seems to be responsible and reliable, and is respected by the others here.

For this reason, I have solicited his advice, and will very likely follow it.

- Eric

J-(Chicago)

Putting an aftermarket cam into a J headed engine is a pretty moot point when the exhaust side stops flowing at .300 lift. A 35 mm cutter should be run down the valve throat first and foremost in my opinion. Those heads choke even the stock cam.

MDchanic

It's a 350. It's got #5 heads.

- Eric

J-(Chicago)

krooser

I vote for a .600 lift and 320 duration @ .050.... that should wake up the neighbors.

MDchanic

Not through the factory-type quiet Walkers and resonators, it wouldn't.

- Eric