Cam choices.
#1
Cam choices.
Today got off the phone with comp cam. Got two way different oppions. The first being 270H magnum. Duration 270/224 valve lift .501 lobe lift .313. Second is 268h duration 268/218 valve lift .456 lobe lift is .286. So are either of these plasible? The first seems like it would be pretty doggish with my set up but I dont know.
#4
If it's all stock and going through exhaust manifolds and a small exhaust I would get a split duration cam. Something with about 10-12 more degrees of exhaust duration at .050 than the intake. Of those two I would take the smaller one.
Last edited by chadman; September 24th, 2012 at 10:15 AM.
#6
The problem is the compression ratio, it is around 8 to 1. Couple that with the 2.xx gears that are probably in the car (2.14 was popular) and you REALLY do not want to over cam the car. I would be very conservative, something like .450 lift and 205 @ .050. Do you already have the headers? IMO, you really won't gain much, they will be more trouble than they are worth.
#7
He needs to make peak torque quickly so I'd do something around a 214/220 on a 108, with about 6 degrees advance. He needs to retain cylinder pressure, the advanced intake timing will enhance that.
#8
I been doing reasearch and your exactly right the 10-12 degrees bigger is a bad idea from what I seen. And Cutlassefi your exactly saying what I want. Do you agree with not using the headers?
#10
He needs low end torque. Using an exhaust that's 10-12 degrees bigger than the intake will only stretch out the powerband.
He needs to make peak torque quickly so I'd do something around a 214/220 on a 108, with about 6 degrees advance. He needs to retain cylinder pressure, the advanced intake timing will enhance that.
He needs to make peak torque quickly so I'd do something around a 214/220 on a 108, with about 6 degrees advance. He needs to retain cylinder pressure, the advanced intake timing will enhance that.
http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1720&gid=287
Better choice, IMO. I ran a 214/224 in a 9 to 1 355 with head work and headers, too big. 210/216 Engle ran great. For a full point lower compression, stock heads, I don't see the 214/220 on a 108 building cylinder pressure. You do this for a living, tell me what I am missing? Jim
#11
Do headers at all make a difference besides sound? Sometimes I heard headers hurt you more than help in some cases. Ill let you to help me with this cam.. I really dont wanna spend all this time doing a motor that screws up cause it was a fail lol. Im a beginer here learning a trade
#12
Do headers at all make a difference besides sound? Sometimes I heard headers hurt you more than help in some cases. Ill let you to help me with this cam.. I really dont wanna spend all this time doing a motor that screws up cause it was a fail lol. Im a beginer here learning a trade
Stock 350 manifolds are TERRIBLE! Headers can be a significant upgrade, but it depends. On a serious build they are absolutely a cost effective upgrade, IMO. One thing that is different about Olds engines vs SBC and SBF is that in stock form two cylinders share the center exhaust port. This negates a lot of the scavenging benefits of headers. Also, if the primaries are too large, it can hurt performance in a mild build. I used Sanderson shorty headers on several builds and found them to be a nice compromise.
#13
So headers it is, I have my carb im going to use(650 holly) it was on my 71 cutlass had good luck with it. stock heads, stock manifold for now, so this cam thing. If I get any cam you guys are talking about. Im going to have to change valve springs and lifters right? If I dont even better but i know lifters are a must
#15
So headers it is, I have my carb im going to use(650 holly) it was on my 71 cutlass had good luck with it. stock heads, stock manifold for now, so this cam thing. If I get any cam you guys are talking about. Im going to have to change valve springs and lifters right? If I dont even better but i know lifters are a must
#17
A lot of stuff here.
Personally I'd do headers, but long tube headers. They offer a distinct performance advantage and typically you'll hear any cam more thru headers than you will manifolds, that's what he wants.
Jim- the 108 is to try to advance the intake closing as much as possible and delay the exhaust opening, building cylinder pressure. Plus I would have at least 6 degrees advance ground into it as well. He's also planning to change the gear to a 3.42, that'll help everywhere.
The generic 214/224 wouldn't be too far off except for excessive exhaust duration and the wide lobe sep(112).
A tighter lobe sep will build more power, sooner, same with a shorter exhaust, better midrange. If this thing runs out of breath at 5000 so be it. He'll have a tall gear and low compression along with the desire to hear it. That's a tall order however you look at it.
Personally I'd do headers, but long tube headers. They offer a distinct performance advantage and typically you'll hear any cam more thru headers than you will manifolds, that's what he wants.
Jim- the 108 is to try to advance the intake closing as much as possible and delay the exhaust opening, building cylinder pressure. Plus I would have at least 6 degrees advance ground into it as well. He's also planning to change the gear to a 3.42, that'll help everywhere.
The generic 214/224 wouldn't be too far off except for excessive exhaust duration and the wide lobe sep(112).
A tighter lobe sep will build more power, sooner, same with a shorter exhaust, better midrange. If this thing runs out of breath at 5000 so be it. He'll have a tall gear and low compression along with the desire to hear it. That's a tall order however you look at it.
#19
the 108 is the degree between intake and exhaust lobe centers. the 6 degree advance is setting that 108 at 6 degrees before top dead center. that 6 degrees can be made into the cam and you just install the cam to top dead center. i am no pro...cutlassefi will make it more clear than i can.
i have 3.42 in my Rallye 350 and i am happy with the drivability of it.
i have 3.42 in my Rallye 350 and i am happy with the drivability of it.
Last edited by jensenracing77; September 24th, 2012 at 05:16 PM.
#20
108 is the lobe sep and technically the intake centerline as well.
The + 6 means your installing it 6 degrees advanced from that and/or it has 6 degrees advance ground into it.
Example, cam has 214@.050 intake duration;
108 (straight up) Your degree wheel should read -1 or 1 degree after TDC when the lifter is .050 up.
108+6 (102 intake centerline) - degree wheel should read 5btdc with .050 lifter rise.
Lobe sep is ground into the cam, intake centerline is changeable.
Hope this helps.
The + 6 means your installing it 6 degrees advanced from that and/or it has 6 degrees advance ground into it.
Example, cam has 214@.050 intake duration;
108 (straight up) Your degree wheel should read -1 or 1 degree after TDC when the lifter is .050 up.
108+6 (102 intake centerline) - degree wheel should read 5btdc with .050 lifter rise.
Lobe sep is ground into the cam, intake centerline is changeable.
Hope this helps.
#21
Jim- the 108 is to try to advance the intake closing as much as possible and delay the exhaust opening, building cylinder pressure. Plus I would have at least 6 degrees advance ground into it as well. He's also planning to change the gear to a 3.42, that'll help everywhere.
The generic 214/224 wouldn't be too far off except for excessive exhaust duration and the wide lobe sep(112).
A tighter lobe sep will build more power, sooner, same with a shorter exhaust, better midrange. If this thing runs out of breath at 5000 so be it. He'll have a tall gear and low compression along with the desire to hear it. That's a tall order however you look at it.
The generic 214/224 wouldn't be too far off except for excessive exhaust duration and the wide lobe sep(112).
A tighter lobe sep will build more power, sooner, same with a shorter exhaust, better midrange. If this thing runs out of breath at 5000 so be it. He'll have a tall gear and low compression along with the desire to hear it. That's a tall order however you look at it.
#22
If you have enough cylinder pressure along with enough exhaust lobe you'll hear it a little.
#23
This is all starting to make since now-ish. The intake centerline how is it changed? To make suer im following this. Top dead center is when the first cylinder is all the way up right?
#28
Ok top question came into big money problems and really need this motor in the car because the v6 is finally choking. If I go ahead and stay stock for now and drop it in the car, Is putting a cam in hard to do when its in the car?
#29
Wouldn't the 108 lsa make the idle extremely lopey? Wouldn't it also kill your milage ( yes I know we don't build/drive these cars for milage but still )?
#30
Yes. If it runs good and you need it in there, just swap it and rebuilt it or another one later. You do know that the V6 to V8 swap in not a direct bolt in, right? There are quite a few things that need to be changed.
#31
What all needs to be changed??, trans mission is a olds 350 turbo, I have motor mounts from a 83 307 to fit the v8 mounts, I will have dual electric fans on it because it wont fit an actual pulley fan. I have an altinator for the 350 but with the plug from 83 so thats a plug n play now. The 83 has no computer, it just has the electric choke. What am i missing??
#32
Pullys, accessory brackets, 4 barrel throttle bracket, and wiring. I'm sure there are some other odds and ends too.
Yes you can very much run a normal clutch fan. That's what every Olds V8 came with from the factory.
Yes you can very much run a normal clutch fan. That's what every Olds V8 came with from the factory.
#33
Im using all the original pulleys, no use for bracets, im a 2barrel with a two barrel going in so im already set for that.Idk about wiring yet, for the cultch fan idk if I would have room to run one
#34
I think you need to do some more research before taking on this project. For one, you said you have a V6 in your car right now right? Well that's a Buick engine and so you will need a matching set of brackets and pulleys from an Olds V8.
Not sure what you mean by saying that you're a 2 barrel carb, but did you not state you were putting on a Holly 4 barrel?
Yes, of course you have room for a standard clutch fan. That's what all these cars came with. You need to ditch the V6 fan shroud though and get one from a V8.
im a 2barrel with a two barrel going in so im already set for that.
Idk about wiring yet, for the cultch fan idk if I would have room to run one
#35
#36
I think you need to do some more research before taking on this project. For one, you said you have a V6 in your car right now right? Well that's a Buick engine and so you will need a matching set of brackets and pulleys from an Olds V8.
Not sure what you mean by saying that you're a 2 barrel carb, but did you not state you were putting on a Holly 4 barrel?
Yes, of course you have room for a standard clutch fan. That's what all these cars came with. You need to ditch the V6 fan shroud though and get one from a V8.
Not sure what you mean by saying that you're a 2 barrel carb, but did you not state you were putting on a Holly 4 barrel?
Yes, of course you have room for a standard clutch fan. That's what all these cars came with. You need to ditch the V6 fan shroud though and get one from a V8.
Everything is staying stock for now Im dropping in it like it is before I cam it or anything else. The motor is a full motor pulleys and all. With the way my car is adding two more cylinders out I dont know if the big v8 fan will fit so I was going to use dual electric fans. Sorry for the confusion just a change of heart atm. Im not using anything at all from the v6.
#37
So I read that link. I knew I had to change the fuel line direction, Already have the 307 mounts from 83, Im only using wiring for the alt,starter,coil,dis and blower motor. Im not using dumby lights anymore I have very nice gauges in there place. my dumby lights never worked right anyway. I dont have a/c never have had it and right now wont have it for awhile. So far the only thing on conserned about is the clutch fan?? you think one from a v8 would clear?? Idk about that one
#38
For the third time now, the V8's all originally came with clutch fans so why are you so concerned with a clutch fan not fitting if that's what all of these car's originally came with? Go to a boneyard and look at any Olds 307 setup. They all have standard clutch fan setups. You're concerning yourself with something that you don't need to be concerning yourself with.
#39
If the V6 rad looks questionable, replace it. Replacements are only around $100 and a good idea. Next look at a 3.08 or 3.23 gear set, if your keeping the 3 spd trans. Unless you like running 2800 rpm on the highway at 60 mph with the stock tire height, don't go 3.42.
#40
For the third time now, the V8's all originally came with clutch fans so why are you so concerned with a clutch fan not fitting if that's what all of these car's originally came with? Go to a boneyard and look at any Olds 307 setup. They all have standard clutch fan setups. You're concerning yourself with something that you don't need to be concerning yourself with.