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I checked the oil yesterday and was concerned to see crusty bits in the oil on the dipstick - see pic. This is the Lucas break-in oil that has been in the car for several years now. The car hasn't been driven much in that time, mostly in and out of the garage and a few trips around the block. Measured in miles its less than 10 miles, measured in hours around about 20-30 hours of run time. The PCV system is not yet connect (on my short list of things to finish) so maybe the crustiness is blow-by or combustion gases contaminating the oil. I plan to change the oil and filter this afternoon, and will cut open the filter to look for bearing residue but wanted to ask for advice from the CO gurus as well.
It seems almost gritty. Like you said, that could be due to having a non-functional PCV valve. Let us know what you find out when you cut open the filter.
Probably those short trips over several years weren't enough to burn off moisture that built up inside the engine and what your seeing is some minor corrosion rinsed down and collected in the pan. You need to perform a couple of very short time oil changes and drive the car longer in between.
Whatever it is, don't run the engine until you've changed it. Then, if it were mine, I'd run it for no more than 100 miles and then change it again. Don't forget to save your filter for a closer look.
I don't believe break-in oil is meant to sit in the crankcase for years at a time.
Whatever it is, don't run the engine until you've changed it. Then, if it were mine, I'd run it for no more than 100 miles and then change it again. Don't forget to save your filter for a closer look.
I don't believe break-in oil is meant to sit in the crankcase for years at a time.
Yeah, it isn't just the super high ZDDP that doesn't make it street legal. They also will have limited detergents and acid reduction components that regular oils contain.
I changed the oil with a good 10w30 dino oil and found lots of evidence of moisture; the oil filler cap was super rusty as was the inside of the filter. The good news is I found zero evidence of metal or bearing material in the filter media, but the oil was very thick, black and nasty. The dark color, I think, can be traced to the assembly lube used when building the engine. I will heed BangScreech's advice and will plan to change the oil again very soon. Thanks for everyone's input.
I've had a chance to drive the car a little after replacing the break-in oil with regular 10w30 dino oil. The oil on the dipstick is now clean and no longer has the crusty stuff from the first oil change. I've made three 15 minute excursions now getting the engine up to operating temp as well as some driveway idle time also getting the engine up to full temp. I'm planning to change the oil & filter again soon but would like recommendations from the CO brain trust. For the initial engine start-up I ran Lucas 30wt break-in oil but never drove the car, just in and out of the garage and moving around the body shop. Should I run the Lucas break-in oil again as I didn't have any real drive-time on the first oil change? Seems like the drive-time on the break-in oil would help seat the rings.
Thanks,
I went Lucas 30 wt break in oil, Broke in cam and some run through on stands. Then Lucas 10W30 Hot Rod oil to get the Terminator X Max up and running. Then changed to Vavoline VR1 10W30 and will change again in a short amount of time.
Just chiming in to also say 'just run the normal oil you plan to run'. Ring seating either happens really quick or it doesn't happen.
Aren't you running a roller cam? I can't remember. IMO break-in oil is still a good idea for flat tappet breakin, but once that's done or if running a roller then it's not necessary.
I've had a chance to drive the car a little after replacing the break-in oil with regular 10w30 dino oil. The oil on the dipstick is now clean and no longer has the crusty stuff from the first oil change. I've made three 15 minute excursions now getting the engine up to operating temp as well as some driveway idle time also getting the engine up to full temp. I'm planning to change the oil & filter again soon but would like recommendations from the CO brain trust. For the initial engine start-up I ran Lucas 30wt break-in oil but never drove the car, just in and out of the garage and moving around the body shop. Should I run the Lucas break-in oil again as I didn't have any real drive-time on the first oil change? Seems like the drive-time on the break-in oil would help seat the rings.
Thanks,
Rodney
15 minutes of run time is not nearly long enough to get the oil up to operating temp. Without being at operating temperature moisture will form in the oil, just like it did in your break in oil. Idling, even when warmed up it is even worse for producing unwanted moisture. Take it out and DRIVE it!
Hey Rodney,
How have you been ?
I assume you performed the standard initial break-in procedure when you first started the motor.
Given the scenario you described in your first post I think you are good. Especially that you have inspected the filler and found no evidence of foul play.
What you are seeing there is most likely a combination of initial break-in contamination mixed with a lot of condensation and surface rust built up from short on and off starts.
We are all guilty of this nasty habit as life is so busy.
Change the oil and filter, loose the break in oil and start a regiment of your favorite oil.
If you don't have a magnetic oil plug, I would get one. They are a great tool for initial inspection at every oil change.
If your not driving the car regularly and running it up to temp then an annual oil change is required.
Again, what you have there is no big deal considering the scenario.
Change the oil and filter and march on.
Enjoy that car !
October 22nd, 2023, 06:33 AM
