holidaysedan

for my '69 Cutlass 350 2 bbl, and I'm staying all stock.
Anyone know the best source for GM or US made intake/exhaust valves, springs, and lifters?
Prefer OEM GM, but US made is OK, anyone know where Mondello's (CA one) stuff is made?

Charlie Jones

First , stay away from CA Mondello . If you want to know why just do a search on this forum .
Why do you want to replace all the valves ? They may only need to be re-ground , if their " margin" is still acceptable . A machinist will know .
You will still have to take the heads to a machinist to cut the valve seats .
Probably best to buy whatever parts are necessary from the machinist . Reputable shops sell reputable parts .
Sealed Power comes to mind as one reputable manufacturer .
Most everything is made in China these days .

oddball

Don't buy from Mondello Performance in Paso Robles - just search on here.

Joe's son, Bernard Mondello, runs a *separate* shop which can be trusted.

That said, I doubt OE valve train parts would be a good idea. Anything would be at least 30 years old now. I'm not sure if there are *any* US made (standard use hydraulic flat tappet Olds) lifters.

I think lifters have gotten better over the past few years - there was a span when lifter quality got really bad. But I think we're back to the point where any big name lifter is OK. I'm sure someone will correct me.

As for the rest of the parts, those may not even need replacing! Especially a stock 2bbl build, there's no point. Even spongy springs will be fine with the stock cam. You're fine as long as they have decent seat pressure.
You can get stock replacement valves if one is seriously trashed.

Most likely the only thing needed is cleaning up the heads and a valve job. Might be just fine with just lapping the valves.

Your friendly neighborhood machine shop can do a perfectly fine quick and easy refresh on those heads.

Charlie Jones

Another thought , unless the lifters have a specific problem , leave them alone .
Don't put new lifters on a used camshaft or vice versa . They " wear in " together and a mismatch could spell a wiped out cam lobe .

scj64

I bought a set of 2.0 intake and 1.625 exhaust from Supercars Unlimited. Boxes say SBI in Nashville but there's also a Made in China sticker.
I never opened them and decided to go aluminum heads. $100 shipped in you're interested.

holidaysedan

Thanks for the heads up re the CA store, I've known the Mondello name from being 40 yrs into Oldsmobiles, but didn't realize they were separate. The one in Crossville TN I assume is the one to deal with? I don't see valves for sale there but will call them if it turns out I need to replace any.

Thanks for the parts offer, I'm keeping the stock size valves, it'll go to the machinist and nothing will get replaced unless required, valves that can be lapped and re-used will be, and I'm not likely to touch the lifters in any event, just curious who makes what and where these days. I do know I have 1 burnt exhaust valve. NOS GM OE valves shouldn't be affected by age if stored in a dry place, as far as I know. No non-US made parts will go in this car.

Noel Anderson

Hi Rodger, Since you are in NY, you might want to check with Bill Travato. His website is http://btrperformance.com/ and he is well known for Oldsmobile builds. Also note that you have #5 heads on your car and the exhaust valves and seats were not designed for unleaded gas. You might look for some harder valves and seats for your car in order to run on unleaded gas.

BillK

I have been using SBI valve train parts almost exclusively for the last 20 years or so. They are certainly not made in the USA but they are top notch parts. Have never had a single problem with them. The valves will be Eloy brand. I would not hesitate to use them and their springs are fine also.

BillK

Just want to add that your machine shop should be able to get you all of the parts for reasonable prices.

holidaysedan

Thanks for the further info gents. I talked to the machinist yesterday, he's old like me and has been doing it for 40+ years.
He told me he uses SBI parts so the additional vote of confidence is good to have.

I hadn't thought about hardened valves in the #5 head (the good ones?) but that's a good point, will discuss it with him.

BillK

Its actually the valve seats, not the valves but to be honest with you Oldsmobile does not seem to have the problem with that like some other engines. Unless your machinist sees some reason I don't think it is needed myself.

holidaysedan

Yep I meant hardened seat inserts, I didn't have 'em in my '68 Chev 327 either and never had a problem. In the past I've been told that valve recession tends to surface more when the car is used for heavy loads, hot weather, or getting hammered on a lot, not so much in light use.

cutlassefi

Wrong, it's overall mileage that will effect that more than anything. How many miles do you plan to drive in a year and overall? That will determine what needs to be done.

holidaysedan

Wrong, it's not overall mileage but the type of mileage. Easy driving with no load, excessive heat, and not pulling trailers up mountains is not a problem for standard valves and seats today regardless of gas. I use no ethanol gas always. Lots of evidence out there supports that conclusion, as has my last 40 years of driving over 200 vintage Olds, Packards, and Chrysler 392 hemis with original stock valves and seats. My list of Olds below is only 1/4 of the cars that I've had no problems with since lead was eliminated, but then again I'm 70 and I don't race or drive like a 16 yr old...anymore. LOL

cutlassefi

Show me the documentation to support this please. Thank you.

holidaysedan

It's not up to me to educate you. For my own purposes I'm quite satisfied by the evidence I've read and experienced, there's tons on the subject in Hemmings, Skinned Knuckles, AACA, and others, look it up.

Located a complete set of US made NORS valves and seats that should outlast me regardless of mileage.

BillK

I don't want to get in any type of argument and I am not going to go looking for articles but after doing automotive machine work for 33 years I am going to have to agree with Holiday. Almost all of the heads that I see with bad valve recession are ones from vehicles that get very heavy use. Trucks and marine engines are famous for it. Also it seems that there are certain "families" of engines that are known for it. If I get a Ford 4.0 V-6 head in the shop it will almost always have the exhaust valves sunk down so far that they will hardly close. There are several other examples.
There are also engine families that seem to be very immune to it. I rarely see a Pontiac head that needs seats for instance.
I also do not think that mileage has anything to do with it. I did the 307 in my Wife's Rivera a year or so ago. It had well over 200K miles on it and to be honest with you the heads were almost perfect except for the bent valves from the timing gear giving it up. I just barely had to touch the seats, the guides had almost no wear and the valves that were not bent only took a light touch on the valve grinder to face them.

Do a search on "exhaust valve microwelding" That explains what actually causes the problem.

cutlassefi

I’ll take a look. However your wife’s 307 would’ve had hardened seats. Kind of explains it going as long as it did.

Bluesteeltuner

Just purchased some for a valve job, and the MIC label gave me a start. Good to know I can rely on Eloy.

Sugar Bear

The good parts may be in use in the '69 350. If they are still within in spec and are over fifty years old we can't ask for any better. Since the goal is stock, if items look good and serviceable reuse them.