When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
What did you use to take that metal pipe setup from the exhaust manifold? Also where did you get the bolts to cap it off?
Bossman, if you're gutting the smog and emissions equipment on your CCC Oldsmobile I suggest you remove the EGR manifold/pipe and take it to the hardware store. You should be able to find brass plugs that will fit those threads. Of course, you MAW remove the heads and replace them with older non-smog heads while you're at it.
Bossman, if you're gutting the smog and emissions equipment on your CCC Oldsmobile I suggest you remove the EGR manifold/pipe and take it to the hardware store. You should be able to find brass plugs that will fit those threads. Of course, you MAW remove the heads and replace them with older non-smog heads while you're at it.
This is mine. I don't want the current exhaust manifold lines to break off before I can completely take them off, what tool should I use
is it possible to get you my contact information so I can direct contact just trying to get a clearer vision of what I'm trying to do. This is what mines look like.
Bossman, I fixed your triple post. You already installed an aftermarket carburetor, but did you replace the distributor in your Olds? You can remove the EGR valve and get a block off plate for it. Plus, you need to find out where those large vacuum lines go. If one is attached to the back of your intake manifold it should go to your brake vacuum booster. The other one probably goes to your smog pump.
You can send me a PM by left clicking on my username but any questions you have are probably best posted publicly in case I don't have the answer for you.
BTW, use a brake line wrench to remove the air injection lines from the heads. Spray the fittings with plenty of PB Blaster/WD 40 before attempting to remove them. They will be seized and rusty.
Took the air injection pipe to the lathe shop. He measured the thread and taper of the injection pipe fitting thread and made 8 nuts from metal.
Hmm. If you don't care how it looks, I think it would be cheapest to clip the tubes about an inch or so sticking up, pinch the ends closed with vise grips and roll the end over like a toothpaste tube. I personally think that looks like crap and can be a bit dangerous monkeying around the area to change plugs, etc. But it does work.
If you want it to look neater, and for some small money, you can clip one of the tube ends with the nut right off, then put the nut in a baggie, and take it with you to home depot or similar, pick through their brass pipe plug assortment until you find the exact size you need. Pennies on the dollar instead of having them being custom made. Unless you were getting them done for less than 15 bucks or so. I've also seen people who cut the tubes off flush with the nut then weld up the tube/nut to seal it off , then grind it flush and paint them the color of the engine. Lotta ways to skin this cat.
Wow, This thread is a wealth of information about these heavily emissioned 307s.
The only thing I didn't see an answer for was what vaccum does the rear choke need to see to operate correctly? I'm assuming it's switched or to a temp sensor of some sort.
Sorry if the answer is obvious.
Wow, This thread is a wealth of information about these heavily emissioned 307s.
The only thing I didn't see an answer for was what vaccum does the rear choke need to see to operate correctly? I'm assuming it's switched or to a temp sensor of some sort.
Sorry if the answer is obvious.
Hmm. If you don't care how it looks, I think it would be cheapest to clip the tubes about an inch or so sticking up, pinch the ends closed with vise grips and roll the end over like a toothpaste tube. I personally think that looks like crap and can be a bit dangerous monkeying around the area to change plugs, etc. But it does work.
If you want it to look neater, and for some small money, you can clip one of the tube ends with the nut right off, then put the nut in a baggie, and take it with you to home depot or similar, pick through their brass pipe plug assortment until you find the exact size you need. Pennies on the dollar instead of having them being custom made. Unless you were getting them done for less than 15 bucks or so. I've also seen people who cut the tubes off flush with the nut then weld up the tube/nut to seal it off , then grind it flush and paint them the color of the engine. Lotta ways to skin this cat.
The last set of 5A heads I did, I just tapped the AIR ports with a 1/4" pipe tap and ran a steel pipe plug down them..
Not to hijack the thread but found this to be the most relevant to my query when searching the forums.
I recently purchased a 87 custom cruiser with vin Y 307 V8. It will be exempt from any form of emissions testing and therefore I plan to remove the smog pump, the AIR tubes to exhaust manifold and the cat.
Main reason of the removal is to clear up the engine bay. Getting rid of the catalytic converter to eliminate restrictions on exhaust and also avoiding a meltdown when air pump is removed.
I also plan to use dual exhausts (mainly for aesthetic reasons) and to retain the CCC Qjet setup. I read that CCC needs EGR. I am not looking for big power. Just need the reliability and fuel economy.
Here the temperature never gets colder than 15 degrees Celsius and averages around 32 degrees so according to this, I can eliminate the heat riser valve and RVB also without a problem.
However, I think I'd retain the anti-dieseling solenoid.
Would eliminating the cat can introduce backfires?
I would also like to see an image of such a cleared 307 engine bay.
Thank you
Hi im new to this group, happy to be here. Here's the engine bay of my 88 custom Cruiser 307, absolutely no smog or Electronics except on the distributor and alternator. Runs great, not pretty but it will be.
New thread with pictures on minimal emissions hoses on 307
Guys,
I am starting a completely new (noob friendly) thread with loads of pictures on gutting the emission control lines, modifications to do and keep the minimal ones which need to operate the CCC system, I will post the link below. NOOB's GUIDE to minimum vacuum lines for CCC system
It would also (hopefully) have all the information necessary to setup the CCC system correctly..
All are welcome to chime in your comments and suggestions, thank you
Last edited by kuseetha; June 24th, 2023 at 12:21 AM.
December 16th, 2019, 10:47 AM
