Testing your HEI
#1
Testing your HEI
Guys lately i have had some ignition issues. i did see some stuff while i was in my distributor that drew some red flags. Like my secondary lead being loose on the cap and the fact there was a fair share of carbon build up on the terminals inside the cap. I tested the coil that was within spec i tested the pick up that was within spec. I did some research on a quick way to check if the module was workin and i saw a few videos but none where too clear so i made my own. I hope it helps someone down the road cheking their used , or junkyard scored hei. My module could still be bad but based on the fact im getting spark leads me to belive it might be my cap and rotor that needs to be replace. Or i need to check my wiring. Now the module does do a few things that could still be causing my issues. I still have a few more things to check once i put it back on the car. I have been out with a bummed back so today i decided since it was on the bench i could mess with that as it was light duty.
Hope this helps someone.
Hope this helps someone.
#3
Been having issues upon initial start, then once it does run it runs great with no issues then if I shut it off and fire it up its fine. If I let it sit for 20 min then no more spark. I have power to the dist. Constant . The cap terminals inside had some carbon build up pretty thick too. So once my back stops bugging me I'm gonna stick the dist. Back in with an isolated power wire and check for spark again. Intermittent problems point towards the pick up but I have tested the dist 5 diffrent times with no problems . The module has connections inside that could fail when cold and work when hot and vise versa. There could be a problem with the rotor not properly putting power through the cap due to the carbon build up on the contact points. The only way to see that would be with the dist in the car with a spark tester.
#4
So we can 100% rule out the 12v supply wiring?
I would take my timing gun and hook it up to plug wire #1. My theory being- if their is spark traveling to plug #1 after the 20 minute cool down time, I'd see a flash.
#5
I was checking spark by taking the 1 plug wire off of the sparkplug and using a spare speak plug. Usually it's very easy to see if I don't have spark or of I do. I'm buying the spark tester because it's cheap and I'm a one man show lol. Checking with the timing gun would mean someone would have to crank it while I checked it. I spent 40 minutes at work trying to fire it up . Checked everything but pulling the dist. Out. Put the cap back on and it fired up. This makes me belive it might be a contact issue between the coil button and rotor. But since I'm carefully checking everything out before I order a new cap and rotor I need to check it in the car. Even if the module is bad I should be able to get it to fire based on the fact it's producing spark. It might not run right which oddly it did but upon initial fire up it idle rough and broke up while I held thw throttle. There is alot of odd things going on lol. But I'm slowly getting to it. My back has been bugging me so I'm just laying and trying to heal up.
Last edited by coppercutlass; March 19th, 2016 at 03:06 PM.
#9
That's what I plan on doing eric. I still want to pin point it so be fore I clean it I wanna see if I get spark. Then if not I will clean it and proceed with other methods for checking stuff out.
Last edited by coppercutlass; March 20th, 2016 at 08:02 AM.
#10
HEI test questions
Guys lately i have had some ignition issues. i did see some stuff while i was in my distributor that drew some red flags. Like my secondary lead being loose on the cap and the fact there was a fair share of carbon build up on the terminals inside the cap. I tested the coil that was within spec i tested the pick up that was within spec. I did some research on a quick way to check if the module was workin and i saw a few videos but none where too clear so i made my own. I hope it helps someone down the road cheking their used , or junkyard scored hei. My module could still be bad but based on the fact im getting spark leads me to belive it might be my cap and rotor that needs to be replace. Or i need to check my wiring. Now the module does do a few things that could still be causing my issues. I still have a few more things to check once i put it back on the car. I have been out with a bummed back so today i decided since it was on the bench i could mess with that as it was light duty.
Hope this helps someone.
Gm hei distributor test. - YouTube
Hope this helps someone.
Gm hei distributor test. - YouTube
#11
On the top of the HEI cap there are 4 screws that give you access to the coil. You can check and see if you have the negative signal to fire the coil at the tach terminal.
Connect one side of a test lamp to the battery POSITIVE cable. Probe the TACH terminal on the dist. cap while someone cranks the engine. The test lamp should blink repeatedly as the engine cranks. No blink will mean either a bad module or pickup coil. If the light blinks but there is no spark points to a bad ignition coil.
Connect one side of a test lamp to the battery POSITIVE cable. Probe the TACH terminal on the dist. cap while someone cranks the engine. The test lamp should blink repeatedly as the engine cranks. No blink will mean either a bad module or pickup coil. If the light blinks but there is no spark points to a bad ignition coil.
#12
On the top of the HEI cap there are 4 screws that give you access to the coil. You can check and see if you have the negative signal to fire the coil at the tach terminal.
Connect one side of a test lamp to the battery POSITIVE cable. Probe the TACH terminal on the dist. cap while someone cranks the engine. The test lamp should blink repeatedly as the engine cranks. No blink will mean either a bad module or pickup coil. If the light blinks but there is no spark points to a bad ignition coil.
Connect one side of a test lamp to the battery POSITIVE cable. Probe the TACH terminal on the dist. cap while someone cranks the engine. The test lamp should blink repeatedly as the engine cranks. No blink will mean either a bad module or pickup coil. If the light blinks but there is no spark points to a bad ignition coil.
#13
Dad taught me a simple method of figuring out if your spark plug leads need changing. Spray your hand with water (spitting in your palm works too) and grab one lead. Put your other hand on the fender or engine. Have someone turn the key. If you heard swearing ... they need changed.
#14
I removed the ignition coil and the resistance is in spec for both the low and high resistance coils. The pickup coil also has resistance in spec. I took the module to a parts store and it tested good on 3 of 3 tests. So I haven't found a defective part yet. Is there a small magnet on the shaft that the pickup coil senses? Is the small capacitor inside the distributor something to be suspect? Other than looking for intermittent wiring issues what other parts being defective would result in no spark?
#16
Problem found
Thanks Coppercutlass, your response led me back to what I thought was a good cap and rotor. On further examination, I found that there was some oxidation of the posts inside the distributor cap. I polished those up as well as the rotor tip and it is firing nicely now. The oxidation was the same color as the posts, so not very visible until brushed off to the inside of the black cap where it became visible. Guess I didn't look at that carefully enough the first time, but then my eyes aren't nearly as young as the car!
Thanks again!
Thanks again!
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