Heater/AC control TEMP knob removal ? '67 Toro
#1
Heater/AC control TEMP **** removal ? '67 Toro
I have a heater/ AC control unit I need to disassemble, clean, and repair but I'm not seeing how the TEMP **** comes off. It looks like maybe it's just pressed on or snapped in place - but I can't quite figure it out. Anyone know how these come off?
#3
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#8
Wish someone else would chime in and help. I thought maybe it was held in by a method like a clasp such as a neckless hooks together. I feel your frustration.
Was there any movement at all, such as in or out or up and down?
Was there any movement at all, such as in or out or up and down?
#9
You thought the same as I did. It SEEMED like there was a little movement outwards, and that got me to wiggling it slightly as I pulled the **** - and very quickly the bent joint just gave way, even though I was pulling at 90 degrees to its angle. That's a very weak area and it seems odd that the piece would be stamped in such a shape.
#10
So I disassembled more and found that the push buttons are pressed on to a serrated edge bar - I have to assume that the Temp piece is exactly the same. I have it soaking in Evaporust for the rest of the day while I try to clean up the rest of this unit. It may be nothing. It a learning experiment, but that’s perfectly fine.
#12
I had to uncover my Toro for another reason, so while at it, I thought I'd look at the heater/AC control. Although a set screw or some kind of clip is what you'd expect, like already said, there's nothing there except for the know itself. With the **** and buttons all secured with sawtooth barbs, their removal is definitely chancy. I hate to say it, but maybe you just need to pursue a "new" control module.
#13
As with all the car companies, with each year everything was made cheaper and more disposable. That design change must have saved the company .001 cents per car. lol
So, initially all you had to do was pull straight out hard to get it off.
Now that the tip is broken off the lever will you be able to make something to replace it?
So, initially all you had to do was pull straight out hard to get it off.
Now that the tip is broken off the lever will you be able to make something to replace it?
#14
I had to uncover my Toro for another reason, so while at it, I thought I'd look at the heater/AC control. Although a set screw or some kind of clip is what you'd expect, like already said, there's nothing there except for the know itself. With the **** and buttons all secured with sawtooth barbs, their removal is definitely chancy. I hate to say it, but maybe you just need to pursue a "new" control module.
#15
#16
Just another data point. My 66 has no set screw (pictured).
Button action on mine is tight but getting better with use. If I were going to take this thing apart, I'd try one of these:
1) dip the back end into sonic cleaner with very mild defreaser to try and free things up, and reoil after.
OR 2) use a heat gun on the mechanism, on low, to soften the gunk and work it some.
Insulation above looks like it dusted onto the mechanism which likely had oil on it, gunking it up.
Button action on mine is tight but getting better with use. If I were going to take this thing apart, I'd try one of these:
1) dip the back end into sonic cleaner with very mild defreaser to try and free things up, and reoil after.
OR 2) use a heat gun on the mechanism, on low, to soften the gunk and work it some.
Insulation above looks like it dusted onto the mechanism which likely had oil on it, gunking it up.
#17
Mike - I did pretty much exactly how you describe. The whole thing was clogged with insulation and dirt. Once the Temp **** broke, the face plate came off and the whole back of the unit was soaked in evaporust overnight. Reassembly was simple and it works like a charm - other than its missing the Temp **** :/
when I take my current one out of the dash, I’m going to try everything possible to clean and assemble without messing with the Temp ****. I’m not sure it can be done.
I’m missing a spring on the top center that holds the up a center bar to keep the buttons in place when pressed.
when I take my current one out of the dash, I’m going to try everything possible to clean and assemble without messing with the Temp ****. I’m not sure it can be done.
I’m missing a spring on the top center that holds the up a center bar to keep the buttons in place when pressed.
#18
If not, I'd remove that arm from the unit (I think you said it's pivot point is a rivet?) and weld a tab on the end for the ****.
Or build something that completely protects the unit from the welding drama and attempt to do it without removing the arm.
Goes without saying - lowest power setting.
.
Last edited by mike 66 toro; December 13th, 2023 at 03:29 PM.
#19
Is the remaining stub long enough to drill a small hole in and "pin" a handle on there?
If not, I'd remove that arm from the unit (I think you said it's pivot point is a rivet?) and weld a tab on the end for the ****.
Or build something that completely protects the unit from the welding drama and attempt to do it without removing the arm.
Goes without saying - lowest power setting.
.
If not, I'd remove that arm from the unit (I think you said it's pivot point is a rivet?) and weld a tab on the end for the ****.
Or build something that completely protects the unit from the welding drama and attempt to do it without removing the arm.
Goes without saying - lowest power setting.
.
#20
Circling back to this today, and getting a project out of the way… I found some diamond tipped fine drill bits on Amazon, and used up three of them grinding out the middle of the broken attaching post.
Then I sized up the remainder of the temperature slider, and ground the end down using a stone disk until it fit the Temp button.
I used a small hammer to tap the button back on, and while it holds fairly tightly, I think a couple drops of epoxy will be best for attaching. I have a selection of set screws, however the distance from the bottom of the **** to the armature is quite a lot.
Finally, flipping it over shows that the shortened distance really doesn’t make much difference in the appearance or performance of the slider.
Then I sized up the remainder of the temperature slider, and ground the end down using a stone disk until it fit the Temp button.
I used a small hammer to tap the button back on, and while it holds fairly tightly, I think a couple drops of epoxy will be best for attaching. I have a selection of set screws, however the distance from the bottom of the **** to the armature is quite a lot.
Finally, flipping it over shows that the shortened distance really doesn’t make much difference in the appearance or performance of the slider.
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