Inspection findings on my 66' Toronado - could use some advice
June 2nd, 2023, 05:15 AM
#1
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Nova Scotia, Canada
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Inspection findings on my 66' Toronado - could use some advice
Good day all,
As a huge newbie to all this, I could certainly use some advice. In my Province in Canada, I have to get an inspection done to get my antique plates. For the past year, I have been fixing everything I could find that was broken or worn out on my car when I got it and I thought it was somewhat ready for the inspection. I took it down yesterday, knowing they would probably find a few things that needed fixing......which was fine as I really enjoy doing the repairs.
Anyway, they wrote up quite a few items and a couple were pretty disappointing. First, they wrote up all 4 wheel bearings. I don't mind the rear ones too much as they shouldn't be too difficult but those two in the front? I dunno, I'd be surprised if they are actually bad. I didn't hear a thing when I drove it. In any case, those big ol' front wheel bearings seem to be available on Rockauto, surprisingly. The PN stamped on the side of the RA bearing matches what I found as the right one, 907770. Anyone used these? Are they decent? They wrote up the LH lower ball joint so maybe it would be a good time to also do that bearing? Is this a massive job? I do have some excellent tools for this stuff (Astro hub remover and wheel bearing removal kit) so hopefully I can use that here.
The next thing I have to look into is the idler arm. They're right, it's worn out and needs to be replaced. Joe P. provided me with some excellent info on this on another site but we're still not sure if a 67' idler arm will directly slot in on a 66'. Every picture I have found of the 66' idler arm looks identical to the 67' but we simply cannot be positive if it is acceptable. Anyone ever had to replace theirs on a 66'? What did you use? It's not on Rockauto. It is on O'Rielly's site but not in stock.
They wrote up the sway bar link bushings, which shouldn't be a problem and also a RH CV boot.....also, I can deal with that.
The last, and most infuriating finding, was that they wrote up the rear left quarter panel for having a rust hole in the bottom of it. It's like, yeah......it's a damn 50+ year old car, there's going to be the odd rust hole. I don't see what that little hole has anything to do with the road-worthiness of the car. Anyway, that's an issue for another time.
So yeah, looking for advice on that idler arm and the front wheel bearings. Thanks again guys!
As a huge newbie to all this, I could certainly use some advice. In my Province in Canada, I have to get an inspection done to get my antique plates. For the past year, I have been fixing everything I could find that was broken or worn out on my car when I got it and I thought it was somewhat ready for the inspection. I took it down yesterday, knowing they would probably find a few things that needed fixing......which was fine as I really enjoy doing the repairs.
Anyway, they wrote up quite a few items and a couple were pretty disappointing. First, they wrote up all 4 wheel bearings. I don't mind the rear ones too much as they shouldn't be too difficult but those two in the front? I dunno, I'd be surprised if they are actually bad. I didn't hear a thing when I drove it. In any case, those big ol' front wheel bearings seem to be available on Rockauto, surprisingly. The PN stamped on the side of the RA bearing matches what I found as the right one, 907770. Anyone used these? Are they decent? They wrote up the LH lower ball joint so maybe it would be a good time to also do that bearing? Is this a massive job? I do have some excellent tools for this stuff (Astro hub remover and wheel bearing removal kit) so hopefully I can use that here.
The next thing I have to look into is the idler arm. They're right, it's worn out and needs to be replaced. Joe P. provided me with some excellent info on this on another site but we're still not sure if a 67' idler arm will directly slot in on a 66'. Every picture I have found of the 66' idler arm looks identical to the 67' but we simply cannot be positive if it is acceptable. Anyone ever had to replace theirs on a 66'? What did you use? It's not on Rockauto. It is on O'Rielly's site but not in stock.
They wrote up the sway bar link bushings, which shouldn't be a problem and also a RH CV boot.....also, I can deal with that.
The last, and most infuriating finding, was that they wrote up the rear left quarter panel for having a rust hole in the bottom of it. It's like, yeah......it's a damn 50+ year old car, there's going to be the odd rust hole. I don't see what that little hole has anything to do with the road-worthiness of the car. Anyway, that's an issue for another time.
So yeah, looking for advice on that idler arm and the front wheel bearings. Thanks again guys!
June 2nd, 2023, 05:34 AM
#2
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Edmond, OK
Posts: 16,034
That's a bummer that they wrote up so many items on your Oldsmobile. I suggest you check out Kanter for hard to find replacement parts.
https://www.kanter.com/
Since they indicated your front wheel bearings are bad, do you have to replace them, or can you disassemble, clean & repack them since they're still good?
To fix the rust I suggest cutting a piece of metal slightly larger than the rust hole. After grinding back the rust weld the metal to the backside of the fender. Then fill the fender with fiber fill.
I'm glad they don't do inspections in OK... yet.
Can you register your Toronado normally without an inspection?
https://www.kanter.com/
Since they indicated your front wheel bearings are bad, do you have to replace them, or can you disassemble, clean & repack them since they're still good?
To fix the rust I suggest cutting a piece of metal slightly larger than the rust hole. After grinding back the rust weld the metal to the backside of the fender. Then fill the fender with fiber fill.
I'm glad they don't do inspections in OK... yet.
Can you register your Toronado normally without an inspection?
June 3rd, 2023, 05:32 PM
#3
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Nova Scotia, Canada
Posts: 580
That's a bummer that they wrote up so many items on your Oldsmobile. I suggest you check out Kanter for hard to find replacement parts.
https://www.kanter.com/
Since they indicated your front wheel bearings are bad, do you have to replace them, or can you disassemble, clean & repack them since they're still good?
To fix the rust I suggest cutting a piece of metal slightly larger than the rust hole. After grinding back the rust weld the metal to the backside of the fender. Then fill the fender with fiber fill.
I'm glad they don't do inspections in OK... yet. Can you register your Toronado normally without an inspection?
https://www.kanter.com/
Since they indicated your front wheel bearings are bad, do you have to replace them, or can you disassemble, clean & repack them since they're still good?
To fix the rust I suggest cutting a piece of metal slightly larger than the rust hole. After grinding back the rust weld the metal to the backside of the fender. Then fill the fender with fiber fill.
I'm glad they don't do inspections in OK... yet.
Can you register your Toronado normally without an inspection?
June 3rd, 2023, 06:10 PM
#4
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Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: St. Paul Minnesota
Posts: 4,084
No the front wheel bearings are sealed units and are massive. Severely overbuilt for the application but that's all good. They're quite expensive from some retailers, such as Fusick, who want well over $200 each. Everyone loves to mention that they're the same style ones they used in the GMC Motorhome so yeah, they're pretty beefy. They're not the type of bearing you can re-pack and be on your way, unfortunately.
June 4th, 2023, 05:42 AM
#5
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Nova Scotia, Canada
Posts: 580
June 4th, 2023, 10:26 AM
#6
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Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: St. Paul Minnesota
Posts: 4,084
PM a member "Jaunty" and he could help you on this a lot better than I can.
June 6th, 2023, 01:42 PM
#7
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Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 99
The whole bearing comes out with the hub, using a slide-hammer to "convince" it to come out. Then you would have the problematic bearing pressed off the hub, and the new one pressed on. Hopefully the bearing isn't rusted/frozen in place in the knuckle - use lots of penetrating oil.
June 6th, 2023, 02:02 PM
#8
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Vancouver Island, Canada
Posts: 1,495
First I'd suggest doing some diagnostics to see if there's indications that the bearings are bad. A lack of noise while driving isn't really an indicator that they're good.
Is the inspection facility a government run entity or do you use a local mechanic/shop certified to perform the inspection? If the latter, check with the classic car crowd in your area for 'friendly" inspection facilities. Often shops that aren't familiar with the older cars write things up as issues when there isn't really a need. No certified shop will give you a free pass, but the knowledgeable ones usually won't cause unnecessary grief.
A friend had his 1965 VW Bug inspected at a local national chain's shop a few years ago (in BC), and one of the items it failed one was a lack of VIN plate. That vintage didn't have the dashboard VIN tag like many other cars, but the factory installed tag is under the hood behind the spare tire, and this car's was right where it belonged. The right inspector can make all the difference in the world.
Good luck with yours!
Is the inspection facility a government run entity or do you use a local mechanic/shop certified to perform the inspection? If the latter, check with the classic car crowd in your area for 'friendly" inspection facilities. Often shops that aren't familiar with the older cars write things up as issues when there isn't really a need. No certified shop will give you a free pass, but the knowledgeable ones usually won't cause unnecessary grief.
A friend had his 1965 VW Bug inspected at a local national chain's shop a few years ago (in BC), and one of the items it failed one was a lack of VIN plate. That vintage didn't have the dashboard VIN tag like many other cars, but the factory installed tag is under the hood behind the spare tire, and this car's was right where it belonged. The right inspector can make all the difference in the world.
Good luck with yours!
June 10th, 2023, 03:57 AM
#9
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Nova Scotia, Canada
Posts: 580
First I'd suggest doing some diagnostics to see if there's indications that the bearings are bad. A lack of noise while driving isn't really an indicator that they're good.
Is the inspection facility a government run entity or do you use a local mechanic/shop certified to perform the inspection? If the latter, check with the classic car crowd in your area for 'friendly" inspection facilities. Often shops that aren't familiar with the older cars write things up as issues when there isn't really a need. No certified shop will give you a free pass, but the knowledgeable ones usually won't cause unnecessary grief.
A friend had his 1965 VW Bug inspected at a local national chain's shop a few years ago (in BC), and one of the items it failed one was a lack of VIN plate. That vintage didn't have the dashboard VIN tag like many other cars, but the factory installed tag is under the hood behind the spare tire, and this car's was right where it belonged. The right inspector can make all the difference in the world.
Good luck with yours!
Is the inspection facility a government run entity or do you use a local mechanic/shop certified to perform the inspection? If the latter, check with the classic car crowd in your area for 'friendly" inspection facilities. Often shops that aren't familiar with the older cars write things up as issues when there isn't really a need. No certified shop will give you a free pass, but the knowledgeable ones usually won't cause unnecessary grief.
A friend had his 1965 VW Bug inspected at a local national chain's shop a few years ago (in BC), and one of the items it failed one was a lack of VIN plate. That vintage didn't have the dashboard VIN tag like many other cars, but the factory installed tag is under the hood behind the spare tire, and this car's was right where it belonged. The right inspector can make all the difference in the world.
Good luck with yours!
I've learned my lesson. I'm currently repairing all their findings (minus the rust hole) and will talk with the local antique clubs about inspections. Thanks everyone!
June 10th, 2023, 10:37 PM
#10
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Northern California
Posts: 1,673
Sorry to hear you got dinged on the inspection, but one thing to smile about is that if you solve the things they pointed out, the car will be safer, more reliable & road-ready. That’s probably where you want it anyway.
As much of a pain as it is, you & your passengers will wind up better off.
Generally not a fan of bureaucracy, but there are sometimes some upsides.
Chris
As much of a pain as it is, you & your passengers will wind up better off.
Generally not a fan of bureaucracy, but there are sometimes some upsides.
Chris
June 11th, 2023, 03:59 AM
#11
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Nova Scotia, Canada
Posts: 580
Sorry to hear you got dinged on the inspection, but one thing to smile about is that if you solve the things they pointed out, the car will be safer, more reliable & road-ready. That’s probably where you want it anyway.
As much of a pain as it is, you & your passengers will wind up better off.
Generally not a fan of bureaucracy, but there are sometimes some upsides.
Chris
As much of a pain as it is, you & your passengers will wind up better off.
Generally not a fan of bureaucracy, but there are sometimes some upsides.
Chris
The bodywork stuff, however......really not my specialty and I wouldn't dare tackle it myself. It really annoyed me because the amount of F150's going around here with rusty ol' boxes (pretty much all of them) are getting inspections completed no problem and they fail my classic 57 year old car for a little hole in the bottom of the quarter panel.
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