Test drove a 76 Toronado, need some questions answered
#1
Test drove a 76 Toronado, need some questions answered
Hello all,
So I am looking at a 76 Toronado, went and looked it over and did a test drive, and I have a few question I hope someone here can answer:
I felt and heard a clunk (yes, that's a technical term) when I either pushed down or let off the gas pedal at higher speeds (40+). Didn't seem to do it at lower speeds. The engine didn't seem to be stuttering or misfiring, so it seemed more like something that would have been in the transmission or FWD mechanism, but I'm not sure. Otherwise it rode and drove pretty smooth. Any body know what that is?
I didn't see any rust bubbles under the vinyl top, but it was padded so I don't know that it would have shown through. The vinyl is starting to tear so it will need a new top anyway. Didn't see any rust around the the rear window like 70's GM cars are famous for. Anywhere else I should look for rust?
There was some mild surface rust here and there, but the bottom of the trunk lid had a few rust holes on the inside. Is this a normal spot for these to rust?
If anyone can help, especially with the drivetrain question, I'd really appreciate it. I'm happy to hear any other observations about these cars. I would like to use this car as a driver for a couple years and then move on to my next bucket list car, so I don't need it to be perfect but I do want to be able to depend on it.
Other things about the car in case you have any questions/ comments:
Power windows and seats worked, radio and clock don't, including the power antenna. I don't know that I care too much, my 76 Cutlass has the original AM radio, so I just put a bluetooth speaker on the seat and listen to music from my phone anyway. Everything else seemed to work. Otherwise the interior is actually pretty immaculate except for one small tear in the vinyl on the driver's door panel. I doubt I would bother to fix it.
It has a new gas tank and new exhaust pipes/mufflers. Manifold and catalytic converter seem original. It has all its emissions equipment which is a thing where I live.
Has AC but it doesn't work, not a huge issue where I live, though I would probably fix it.
Owner seems to have kept the car up pretty well and obviously cared about it. When I pulled up in my Cutlass he was kinda stoked that his car might go another Olds guy. He's asking $5,500. Odometer reads 68k, could be 68 or a very well-maintained 168. It was a grandma car much of its life so 68 could be accurate.
Thanks for your help and advice.
So I am looking at a 76 Toronado, went and looked it over and did a test drive, and I have a few question I hope someone here can answer:
I felt and heard a clunk (yes, that's a technical term) when I either pushed down or let off the gas pedal at higher speeds (40+). Didn't seem to do it at lower speeds. The engine didn't seem to be stuttering or misfiring, so it seemed more like something that would have been in the transmission or FWD mechanism, but I'm not sure. Otherwise it rode and drove pretty smooth. Any body know what that is?
I didn't see any rust bubbles under the vinyl top, but it was padded so I don't know that it would have shown through. The vinyl is starting to tear so it will need a new top anyway. Didn't see any rust around the the rear window like 70's GM cars are famous for. Anywhere else I should look for rust?
There was some mild surface rust here and there, but the bottom of the trunk lid had a few rust holes on the inside. Is this a normal spot for these to rust?
If anyone can help, especially with the drivetrain question, I'd really appreciate it. I'm happy to hear any other observations about these cars. I would like to use this car as a driver for a couple years and then move on to my next bucket list car, so I don't need it to be perfect but I do want to be able to depend on it.
Other things about the car in case you have any questions/ comments:
Power windows and seats worked, radio and clock don't, including the power antenna. I don't know that I care too much, my 76 Cutlass has the original AM radio, so I just put a bluetooth speaker on the seat and listen to music from my phone anyway. Everything else seemed to work. Otherwise the interior is actually pretty immaculate except for one small tear in the vinyl on the driver's door panel. I doubt I would bother to fix it.
It has a new gas tank and new exhaust pipes/mufflers. Manifold and catalytic converter seem original. It has all its emissions equipment which is a thing where I live.
Has AC but it doesn't work, not a huge issue where I live, though I would probably fix it.
Owner seems to have kept the car up pretty well and obviously cared about it. When I pulled up in my Cutlass he was kinda stoked that his car might go another Olds guy. He's asking $5,500. Odometer reads 68k, could be 68 or a very well-maintained 168. It was a grandma car much of its life so 68 could be accurate.
Thanks for your help and advice.
#3
I've been around three of these - a '76 and two '77s. Here are the truths as I know them.
People in general do not consider these cars valuable. Replacement trim parts can sometimes be hard to come by. The interiors are usually in really good shape. The trunk lid will always have rust at the bottom edge. The trim around the opera windows will disintegrate back into unobtanium if you do not treat it gently. Replacement mechanical parts can be had, but sometimes you must know the more popular cross-reference vehicle to have the parts store look them up. I usually have to order the whitewall Hankook tires for mine from somewhere like tirerack.com. They use quite different valve stems. The tire shop will not have them in stock. Same goes for the long reach "Cadillac" wheel weights.
I can't help with the clunking. I haven't had that yet.
All of that said, I've always loved driving my Toronados. I've even made two long road trips in one of them. '76 still uses a normal HEI distributor. '77 and '78 do not.
Good luck and enjoy the car.
People in general do not consider these cars valuable. Replacement trim parts can sometimes be hard to come by. The interiors are usually in really good shape. The trunk lid will always have rust at the bottom edge. The trim around the opera windows will disintegrate back into unobtanium if you do not treat it gently. Replacement mechanical parts can be had, but sometimes you must know the more popular cross-reference vehicle to have the parts store look them up. I usually have to order the whitewall Hankook tires for mine from somewhere like tirerack.com. They use quite different valve stems. The tire shop will not have them in stock. Same goes for the long reach "Cadillac" wheel weights.
I can't help with the clunking. I haven't had that yet.
All of that said, I've always loved driving my Toronados. I've even made two long road trips in one of them. '76 still uses a normal HEI distributor. '77 and '78 do not.
Good luck and enjoy the car.
#4
Yeah, I called a auto shop I like for older cars and they said they hadn't seen a Toronado for years, but they do have a guy who brings in an Eldorado. They thought if its the CV shafts, its maybe a $600 job if they do it. I have a line on a 73 in good shape, so I may pass the 76 up and check the 73. I kind of like not having to do emissions tests!
#6
I’m no expert, but usually when I hear clunking, it’s worn out A-arm bushings, or rear trailing arm bushings. Sometimes more than 1. The other major suspect in my (rear wheel drive) mind would the the CV joints.
#7
Just to add to what 77toroando said about the difference in distributors even the 77 and 78 had a difference in them as they were the MISAR system. Mine went flaky on my 77 and the cure was to drop in a conventional vac/mech distributor for the 77 Olds 98 with the 403 motor. Works just fine. Need to do a little tweaking to the wiring to get the temp sensor light working properly but Joe Padavano solved that problem for me. Check out the thread on 77 Toro not running properly for the details.
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