72 Tranny pan leak
#1
72 Tranny pan leak
Feel dumb asking but would like to get direction regarding the best method for sealing a tranny pan on a 72 Cutlass S. Gasket? RTV? Combo? If gasket, cork or rubber? Other than using a torque wrench to ensure uniform tightening, any other advice/tricks to maximize chances of a leak free repair?
Appreciate any assistance!
Appreciate any assistance!
#3
^^^THIS! The factory torque spec on the pan bolts is 13 ft-lbs. Gorillas like to crank on the bolts in an ill-fated attempt to seal the pan, which locally crushes the thick cork gasket, deforming the pan rail.
#4
Make sure you use a high quality gasket.
https://www.summitracing.com/search/...n-model/thm350
You can use Permatex if you want, not RTV.
https://www.summitracing.com/search/...n-model/thm350
You can use Permatex if you want, not RTV.
#6
When you get your new pan with the drain plug option (highly recommended) and gasket, glue the (standard cork or composite) gasket to the pan with your favorite spray adhesive (permatex high tack) then bolt it up with nothing on the trans case.
Both of these suggestions make the next service a breeze.
I use either composite or rubber steel core pan gaskets. Can reuse the rubber steel core multiple times, No glue needed on this one. Same strategy works well with valve covers.
https://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/93103/10002/-1
All I can find for an image is this chineasium junk. I know OEM stock smooth steel pans exist with the drain.
https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/601181/10002/-1
Drain plug kit:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/125642989350
Both of these suggestions make the next service a breeze.
I use either composite or rubber steel core pan gaskets. Can reuse the rubber steel core multiple times, No glue needed on this one. Same strategy works well with valve covers.
https://www.jegs.com/i/Moroso/710/93103/10002/-1
All I can find for an image is this chineasium junk. I know OEM stock smooth steel pans exist with the drain.
https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/601181/10002/-1
Drain plug kit:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/125642989350
#9
Lube Locker it is! Sounds like several of you have had first hand experience with them. I'm hearing the gasket alone (minus Permatex) should do the trick especially if I grab a new pan and drain plug as well. Thanks for all the guidance!!
#11
What Joe said X10.
I had to call TCI and ask for an OEM USA pan. They rebuild cores daily. Good used GM OEM examples are abundant.
As Joe and others mention if its in good shape and the pan rails just need a little love with a ball peen on a flat surface you are far better off.
Just install the drain plug kit. Use a light coating of "The right stuff" RTV on that.
If you have to straighten your pain rail, be gentle. You need to concentrate on the bolt hole areas. Just want too bring them back to level. Be careful to not flatten the raised gasket pinch feature.
Put the pain on a flat surface and inspect. If its wrapped it will be captain obvious. Ive had success using a large flat drift. Or the square drive end of a impact socket with a larger socket on the other side for support.
Many ways to do this successfully. Just don't meat-hook it gorilla style.
No chineasium junk...EVER!
I had to call TCI and ask for an OEM USA pan. They rebuild cores daily. Good used GM OEM examples are abundant.
As Joe and others mention if its in good shape and the pan rails just need a little love with a ball peen on a flat surface you are far better off.
Just install the drain plug kit. Use a light coating of "The right stuff" RTV on that.
If you have to straighten your pain rail, be gentle. You need to concentrate on the bolt hole areas. Just want too bring them back to level. Be careful to not flatten the raised gasket pinch feature.
Put the pain on a flat surface and inspect. If its wrapped it will be captain obvious. Ive had success using a large flat drift. Or the square drive end of a impact socket with a larger socket on the other side for support.
Many ways to do this successfully. Just don't meat-hook it gorilla style.
No chineasium junk...EVER!
#12
The place I buy transmission parts sells OEM deep pans, filter bolts and the longer filter pickup tubes for 30 bucks. I like the late model factory pans because they are cheap, they work, and include a raised bead around the pan surface.
It’s rare to get a stamped steel shallow pans in useable condition. They are usually beat to hell or rusted out.
The charcoal colored gaskets, or the shiny tan gaskets that come in TranStar gaskets kits are without a doubt the best gaskets I have used. I don’t know what they are made of, or if the have a coating, by it takes a couple good hits with a rubber mallet to break the pan loose.
Regardless of the type of pan, the surface needs to be flat. A little hammering will go a long way. If it’s a chrome pan, junk it! Some people say grinding the chrome from the pan will help it seal. Not in my experience!
It’s rare to get a stamped steel shallow pans in useable condition. They are usually beat to hell or rusted out.
The charcoal colored gaskets, or the shiny tan gaskets that come in TranStar gaskets kits are without a doubt the best gaskets I have used. I don’t know what they are made of, or if the have a coating, by it takes a couple good hits with a rubber mallet to break the pan loose.
Regardless of the type of pan, the surface needs to be flat. A little hammering will go a long way. If it’s a chrome pan, junk it! Some people say grinding the chrome from the pan will help it seal. Not in my experience!
#13
#14
Teal Automotive in Dunkirk Indiana. 1-(800) 722-0215. They specialize in new, used, and refurbished transmission hard parts.
Call, ask for Cheryl. When she answers, be sure to call her a loser slacker foolish woman, i guarantee she will know EXACTLY who referenced them 😁😁
They ship all over the country, I don’t know what shipping would cost on a 400 deep pan and related hardware. Might be worth looking into.
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ddd777
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May 15th, 2016 05:55 PM