T350 help needed

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old October 2nd, 2011, 11:11 AM
  #1  
Registered car nut
Thread Starter
 
nonhog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Puyallup
Posts: 1,146
T350 help needed

When I bought the Omega the guy told me it doesn't shift into high gear.
I thought I'd take a chance that its a modulator or bad hose. Have yet to drive it far enough to notice if it does or doesn't go in "D".
But I did find out after parking nose down in my driveway it slips in reverse.
Two different issues? Not much on Google about reverse.
May be trans time?
ideas?
nonhog is offline  
Old October 2nd, 2011, 05:48 PM
  #2  
Registered User
 
matt69olds's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: central Indiana
Posts: 5,261
The direct clutch is smoked. The direct clutch is the driving clutch in reverse, it locks the drum to the sun shell in 3rd. Whats the fluid look like?
matt69olds is offline  
Old October 2nd, 2011, 06:11 PM
  #3  
Registered car nut
Thread Starter
 
nonhog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Puyallup
Posts: 1,146
Originally Posted by matt69olds
The direct clutch is smoked. The direct clutch is the driving clutch in reverse, it locks the drum to the sun shell in 3rd. Whats the fluid look like?
I think it looked o.k. not brown or dark yet not cherry red. No strong smell. Thats why I was hoping it might be a external fix.
The vacuum modulator hose was pretty bad shape.
Think it would be a waste to drop pan and service it and replace modulator. Symptoms all say smoke direct clutch eh?
nonhog is offline  
Old October 3rd, 2011, 04:46 AM
  #4  
Registered User
 
matt69olds's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: central Indiana
Posts: 5,261
The symptoms say direct clutch. drop the pan and look to see how crap is in the pan. If its full of mud diagnosis confirmed!
matt69olds is offline  
Old October 3rd, 2011, 04:59 AM
  #5  
Registered User
 
Chesrown 67 OAI's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Dover, Ohio
Posts: 1,207
You can try a bottle of Trans-X from local autozone or advance auto. It works wonders on a trans thats going bad before you go ahead and tear it down!
Chesrown 67 OAI is offline  
Old October 4th, 2011, 08:55 PM
  #6  
Registered car nut
Thread Starter
 
nonhog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Puyallup
Posts: 1,146
Lil goopy

pulled the pan and found some goop(friction material) Took some o.k. pictures.
whatd'ya think?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
P1010118.jpg (79.0 KB, 66 views)
File Type: jpg
P1010119.jpg (49.1 KB, 63 views)
File Type: jpg
P1010120.jpg (85.9 KB, 58 views)
File Type: jpg
P1010124.jpg (59.2 KB, 56 views)
nonhog is offline  
Old October 5th, 2011, 05:24 AM
  #7  
Registered User
 
matt69olds's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: central Indiana
Posts: 5,261
I think you found your problem. Time for a autopsy, the clutch debris is also in the converter. You need to replace it or have yours cut open and cleaned.
matt69olds is offline  
Old October 5th, 2011, 08:55 AM
  #8  
Registered car nut
Thread Starter
 
nonhog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Puyallup
Posts: 1,146
Decision time spent 500.00 for a rebuild or try it myself?
Have to price parts and look at the frustration factor.

Interesting link. http://turbo350only.com/
nonhog is offline  
Old October 10th, 2011, 09:23 AM
  #9  
Registered car nut
Thread Starter
 
nonhog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Puyallup
Posts: 1,146
R&R time!

So I spent some time getting the trans ready to come out.
I am wondering how I should go about the cooler lines. Real tough to get to. Thinking if I drop the rear of the trans that should give me enough room to swing a brake line wrench. I'd think the lines would 'give' enough to not bend or crack. Been some time since I've pulled a trans.

Thoughts?
nonhog is offline  
Old October 10th, 2011, 09:46 AM
  #10  
Registered User
 
citcapp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Rathdrum, Idano
Posts: 9,127
Its tough to get to those lines. I took an old 12 point box end wrench and cut a notch out of it for just these lines. Works better then the 6 point wrench. You can take smaller turns with it
citcapp is offline  
Old October 10th, 2011, 09:50 AM
  #11  
Registered car nut
Thread Starter
 
nonhog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Puyallup
Posts: 1,146
Originally Posted by citcapp
Its tough to get to those lines. I took an old 12 point box end wrench and cut a notch out of it for just these lines. Works better then the 6 point wrench. You can take smaller turns with it
Great idea! I'll try that. I've got a number of "lender quality" wrenches I could do that with.
Thanks!
nonhog is offline  
Old October 10th, 2011, 10:43 AM
  #12  
Connoisseur d'Junque
 
MDchanic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
Worse comes to worst, you could always cut the lines and replace 'em (or do what I would do and patch 'em with compression fittings ).

- Eric
MDchanic is offline  
Old October 25th, 2011, 01:26 PM
  #13  
Registered car nut
Thread Starter
 
nonhog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Puyallup
Posts: 1,146
Its back from the shop. 600.00 because the stator was bad and so was the sun shell. (my luck) Good news its done. Time to install!
Wish they didn't paint it silver. Forgot to ask them not to. Oh well.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
T350.jpg (65.5 KB, 25 views)
nonhog is offline  
Old November 14th, 2011, 11:36 AM
  #14  
Registered car nut
Thread Starter
 
nonhog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Puyallup
Posts: 1,146
Its in and waiting for a few items to be tightened. Hook up linkage and such.
One question re: TC. Always leary about getting that right. I heard a click and 2 clunks as well as felt them as I was pushing/turning. Now to be sure it did not slide out of position during jacking, installing should I push/turn again just to be sure? Any trick now that its bolted to the engine? Same deal just less room?
And .............how many qts. of ATF should I start with before I start the engine and move the shifter through the gears.

Thanks!
nonhog is offline  
Old November 14th, 2011, 12:46 PM
  #15  
Administrator
 
oldcutlass's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Poteau, Ok
Posts: 40,578
Did you replace the converter, because all that gunk that was in your pan is also in your converter.

I think it holds 9-10 quarts total including the converter. I pour 1-2 quarts in the converter before I install. Before I start the engine I add 5 quarts to the transmission. Once started I add two more. Then I let the car warm up and run it thru the gears and reverse. Some people like to jack the rear and run it in reverse for a few minutes. Then check and add as required to get to the full mark. Do not overfill!!
oldcutlass is offline  
Old November 14th, 2011, 01:11 PM
  #16  
Registered car nut
Thread Starter
 
nonhog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Puyallup
Posts: 1,146
New TC (little higher stall than stock). Added 1 qt to it and 1 to the trans so far.
Thanks!
nonhog is offline  
Old November 14th, 2011, 04:04 PM
  #17  
Administrator
 
oldcutlass's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Poteau, Ok
Posts: 40,578
Let us know how it turns out.
oldcutlass is offline  
Old November 30th, 2011, 07:51 PM
  #18  
Registered car nut
Thread Starter
 
nonhog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Puyallup
Posts: 1,146
linkage question

Out of town for a week, just getting back to it. Had a bushing fall out of the frame (floor shift) I can't get the solid bushing back in the rubber(?)
bushing assuming that how it was. Bigger bushing is hard and out of round.
Just drill it?
Hate to screw anything up. Wouldn't be the 1st time.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg
P1010248.jpg (17.8 KB, 12 views)
File Type: jpg
P1010249.jpg (19.9 KB, 12 views)
nonhog is offline  
Old November 30th, 2011, 08:45 PM
  #19  
Registered car nut
Thread Starter
 
nonhog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Puyallup
Posts: 1,146
Feel like a beginer I am not sure now where the metal bushing came from? Doesn't fit in the frame hole like I thought it would.
Now I have some thing messed up as its together but wont shift as in wont move. LOL I'm tired time for a break. Tomorrow!
nonhog is offline  
Old December 31st, 2011, 05:13 PM
  #20  
Registered car nut
Thread Starter
 
nonhog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Puyallup
Posts: 1,146
Man am I slow!
Got 9 qts. in it now and been running it and going through the gears at each quart. Its wanting to go for a test drive however the fuel line at the pump decided to start leaking. Best take care of that. Dinners almost ready. & At least its steak!
Being NYE I may not get another crack at it today. Such is life.
nonhog is offline  
Old December 31st, 2011, 05:27 PM
  #21  
Registered User
 
Rickman48's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Shorewood, Il.
Posts: 3,057
Wish I'd of caught this earlier - my trans shop won't warrantee a trans unless you've flushed the cooler too - want the reciept for the can!!
Rickman48 is offline  
Old January 2nd, 2012, 09:53 AM
  #22  
Registered car nut
Thread Starter
 
nonhog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Puyallup
Posts: 1,146
Where to find a vac modulator hose?

Hate to buy a new vac modulator just to get a hose.
Dealer can't find part #
O'reillys wants to sell w/modulator which I dont need.
Tried standard hose but its too big on the hard line side.
Ideas?
TIA
nonhog is offline  
Old January 2nd, 2012, 05:58 PM
  #23  
Registered User
 
Chesrown 67 OAI's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Dover, Ohio
Posts: 1,207
Originally Posted by nonhog
Hate to buy a new vac modulator just to get a hose.
Dealer can't find part #
O'reillys wants to sell w/modulator which I dont need.
Tried standard hose but its too big on the hard line side.
Ideas?
TIA
Got to NAPA store -- the will cut/sell you a piece of hose - just what you want and need! and if line end is still too big (???) - try a mini- hose clamp?
Chesrown 67 OAI is offline  
Old January 2nd, 2012, 09:41 PM
  #24  
Registered car nut
Thread Starter
 
nonhog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Puyallup
Posts: 1,146
Originally Posted by Rickman48
Wish I'd of caught this earlier - my trans shop won't warrantee a trans unless you've flushed the cooler too - want the reciept for the can!!
Funny my rebuilder said "It wouldn't be a bad idea" In a tone that suggested he didn't care one way or the other. Maybe what he found wasn't so bad? Who knows? Good idea !

Originally Posted by Chesrown 67 OAI
Got to NAPA store -- the will cut/sell you a piece of hose - just what you want and need! and if line end is still too big (???) - try a mini- hose clamp?
I got some from Oreilly's and felt I could secure it with a clamp or zip tie but ended up just buying a new mod for around $10.00.
Scoured Google for the Olds parts# list but gave up after a couple hours.
Didn't want a too big loop with non formed hose.
Was sheetrocking tonight, maybe tomorrow?
nonhog is offline  
Old January 8th, 2012, 06:13 AM
  #25  
Registered User
 
carluvr60616's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 5
sorry to hear about your trans dude that really stinks! =[
Hey guys I have a th350 3 speed auto with tires 225/60/r16. What spedometer drive gear do I need? Everywhere I look I get a different answer
carluvr60616 is offline  
Old January 8th, 2012, 06:19 AM
  #26  
Connoisseur d'Junque
 
MDchanic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
Ummmmmm... What's your rear end ratio?

- Eric
MDchanic is offline  
Old January 8th, 2012, 08:47 AM
  #27  
Registered car nut
Thread Starter
 
nonhog's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Puyallup
Posts: 1,146
Originally Posted by carluvr60616
sorry to hear about your trans dude that really stinks! =[
Hey guys I have a th350 3 speed auto with tires 225/60/r16. What spedometer drive gear do I need? Everywhere I look I get a different answer
I knew it was a factor when I bought it. I hoped for an easy fix. Nope.
I'm still amazed I can't find the right hose for the hard vac line to modulator. I connected them with an adaptor from "Help" @ O'reillys.
If I could find that part # thread here or @ ROP.
It works and I've driven it down the street. Trans seems o.k. engine seems to be missing something. I'll go down the checklist.

Speedo gear? Around here there is a place that runs your car(must have a dyno?) to determine ratio. Tacoma speedometer. Bound to be a chart or a calulation on Google?
nonhog is offline  
Old January 9th, 2012, 08:34 PM
  #28  
Registered User
 
carluvr60616's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 5
my rear ratio is 3.42 (open differential) and idk if this makes a difference or not but the trans has a b&m shift kit in it
carluvr60616 is offline  
Old January 9th, 2012, 11:55 PM
  #29  
Connoisseur d'Junque
 
MDchanic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
Shift kit is irrelevant, rear end ratio is important.
I believe that TH350s had two possible output shaft gears (my memory is saying either 12 or 13 teeth, but I dont know if that's right), and you'd need to know which one you have in order to be able to answer your question.
You need to figure out a way to count the teeth on your output shaft gear, and then use this calculator to determine the right gear.

Good luck!

- Eric
MDchanic is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
shamusj
Parts Wanted
1
November 25th, 2014 07:03 AM
rcdynamic88
Transmission
5
April 11th, 2014 06:43 AM
rcdynamic88
Transmission
3
October 5th, 2013 05:20 PM
bkeese
Transmission
6
September 19th, 2012 11:14 AM
skryla
Parts For Sale
12
December 12th, 2010 07:25 AM



Quick Reply: T350 help needed



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 11:40 PM.