Sgruenauer96

I've been reading for weeks now, and I cannot find any part numbers. I'm not spending 200$ on a lockup kit for one switch. As I've read I need a normally open switch to wire my trans to lock in 4th. Maybe I'm confused by the 100s of forums and threads I've read. But there's an internal switch and external switch. The external switch is super easy to find, the internal I'm lost on. Ever time I find one it says nothing about it being open or closed just that it's a switch. Anybody have a part number? I'm getting dizzy reading these things over and over and over.

66SportCoupe

Just have it built for non lockup. Did it for my son's 65 442 for his first car. Worked amazing

olds 307 and 403

The Summit kit goes for $90.

JohnnyBs68S

My 200-4R has an internal switch that closes when it goes into 4th gear. It is wired in series w/ the external power source connector for the TC lockup. I used a 12V relay that is energized by by brake light circuit. I connected the NC contacts between a +12V power source and the TC lockup connector. So my TC remains unlocked until it shifts into 4th and will unlock as soon as I hit the brakes. If I'm cruising along locked-up in 4th and I need a boost, kicking the accelerator so that it downshifts will also get the TC to unlock. Pretty simple, cheap and transparent. You can always add a manual over-ride switch (connected in series w/ this string of switches), and if you have a torquey engine, its a good idea to wire a vacuum switch in series too so that "leaning on the throttle" when locked-up (but not enough to get the trans to kick-down), the reduction in engine vacuum (when torque output increases) will cause the TC to unlock. This protects the lock-up clutch in the TC since it isn't built for WOT-levels of engine torque (this would also be an issue when already moving too fast for the trans to downshift as during drag racing).

There really is no need for more complication that that.

joe_padavano

That works, but there are driving conditions where you want the TCC unlocked but you don't really need to kick down into third. The OEM computer allows this, as do some of the aftermarket kits. Obviously the pressure switch solution doesn't. Some of the non-computerized 200-4R applications used a manifold vacuum switch (also wired in series) to do this.

matt69olds

Bow tie overdrives offers a TCC module that has a timer to delay 4th gear for 8 seconds after it shifts into overdrive. It also includes a brake switch for a cruise control application with 2 pairs of contacts. One set of contacts is normally open (used for the brake lights) the other set is normally closed (used for the TCC).

Trans shifts into overdrive, 8 seconds later the converter locks. Touch the brakes, it automatically unlocks. Release the brakes, 8 seconds later it automatically locks again. About as close to factory control as you can get without a computer. It’s probably more seamless control than the primitive system GM used in the early 80s.

Only thing I would like to see bow tie add is a vacuum switch to prevent converter slip. I’m guessing they are reluctant to include it due to potential customer concerns on setting up the vacuum adjustment. It’s something that someone could easily add on their own.

Last time I bought one it was about 180 bucks. That includes a new TCC solenoid, the pressure switch, pan gasket (and filter if I remember correctly) brake switch, module and the wiring.

It is kinda spendy, but the guys wife drives the car occasionally, he wanted it set up so it requires zero driver input other than turning the key and steering. It does work pretty well.

joe_padavano

That's how the factory brake pedal switches for cruise control work. One set of contacts closes for the brake lights and one opens to disable the cruise when you step on the pedal. I've grabbed a few of those from wrecking yards over the years.

Sgruenauer96

I've heard alot of people have had bad luck with the vacuum switch, I'd guess half is people who don't take the time time to adjust but I'd rather just use a switch to Override it. going back to wiring this up, are you saying I dont need any extra parts just a few wires?

bccan

That’s the ticket.

OD only lockup, master switch, cruise brake switch, adjustable vac switch and delay module is the way to do it. Damn near OE (for the period) operation. Let’s say it costs $300 and an afternoon to install, how does that amortize over the next how many years? One can Mickey Mouse anything to lock/unlock the converter, why not make it nearly seamless?

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matt69olds

I played around with a vacuum switch for TCC control years ago, I could never get it to work consistently. Maybe I got a defective junkyard switch? I didn’t pursue the project very long, as long as I was able to control lockup with a switch I was happy. The car I had the 2004R in had the headlight dimmer on the turn signal lever. I used a floor mounted dimmer switch for lockup. Basically, the switch was hidden in plain sight.

Looking back, it would probably have worked a little better if I had included a tiny orifice in the vacuum port. I’m wondering if that would had smoothed out the vacuum signal?

bccan

I have used the old OE non adjustable switches, as well as a few different adjustables. Never had a problem with any of them, they all worked as they should and I liked the unlocking of the converter when there was no call for a downshift to high but a little more torque was summoned.
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danktx

I have the 700r4 lockup wired in my Cutlass that works as described. I used the "hot-rod-rescue-lockup-700-r4-torque-converter-without-computer" wiring diagram, added a cruise control brake switch, and substituted a 10 second delay relay from amazon (10-Second Time Delay Relay Module, 5-Pin 12V 30A SPDT) to accomplish what is described. Without the delay relay when the trans shifted into 4th and locked the convertor at the same time the shift felt mushy. When I wired my car I ran the power wire through the CC side of the brake light switch, if I was doing it today I would run power direct to the relay and add all the switches, (on-off, brake, vacuum) to the control circuit of the relay assuming they are all NC switches.

matt69olds

I have never seen a time delay relay like that! Next time I do one of these conversions I’m going to try one.