1948 Dwell Setting
#1
1948 Dwell Setting
Hello,
Can you please refresh my memory?
Do I set dwell first then timing?
My spec for dwell is 22 deg.
I'm running 25 degrees. Should I get it to 22? Positives and negative of leaving it this way?
Thanks
Lee
Can you please refresh my memory?
Do I set dwell first then timing?
My spec for dwell is 22 deg.
I'm running 25 degrees. Should I get it to 22? Positives and negative of leaving it this way?
Thanks
Lee
#3
#6
So I tried to adjust dwell just now.
Now the car barely wants to start.
Like a low battery...........
Yes...It's a 49 six cyl motor.....maybe I should not have touched it...ughhhh
Can I please have step by step?
I was trying to hand turn flywheel to high point of cam lobe in distributer.
Now the car barely wants to start.
Like a low battery...........
Yes...It's a 49 six cyl motor.....maybe I should not have touched it...ughhhh
Can I please have step by step?
I was trying to hand turn flywheel to high point of cam lobe in distributer.
#11
There are 2 set screws under the cap.
Which one is dwell?
Thanks
#12
The point gap and dwell are the same thing.
If you set your point gap at .020 then the dwell meter should read between 31 and 37 degrees.
The screw that holds the points down to the plate can be loosened and the points moved to get the proper gap and or dwell.
If you set your point gap at .020 then the dwell meter should read between 31 and 37 degrees.
The screw that holds the points down to the plate can be loosened and the points moved to get the proper gap and or dwell.
#13
So if I set gap at .020 and my dwell is only 22 degrees what would the issue be?
#14
#16
If the point gap and dwell are that close it could be the setting on the dwell meter. If the point contacts are badly pitted it can be way off when using a feeler gauge. If you trust the dwell meter use it before the feeler gauge because it will account for pitted/rough contacts.
#17
If the point gap and dwell are that close it could be the setting on the dwell meter. If the point contacts are badly pitted it can be way off when using a feeler gauge. If you trust the dwell meter use it before the feeler gauge because it will account for pitted/rough contacts.
OK thanks.
I will look at this all again tonight.
#18
The problem with this is that there is less time for the coil to charge, and you may get misfire at higher rpm.
If you don't rev the engine into the upper ranges, you will notice no difference (except the coil will stay cooler, which is a good thing).
#19
As you realize, when you set the gap tighter than spec, the dwell will be less than spec also.
The problem with this is that there is less time for the coil to charge, and you may get misfire at higher rpm.
If you don't rev the engine into the upper ranges, you will notice no difference (except the coil will stay cooler, which is a good thing).
The problem with this is that there is less time for the coil to charge, and you may get misfire at higher rpm.
If you don't rev the engine into the upper ranges, you will notice no difference (except the coil will stay cooler, which is a good thing).
#20
I apologize. I answered quickly without putting my thoughts back in my teenage mechanic timeframe! You are correct.
As you close the gap, the dwell (the time the points stay closed) increases.
With longer dwell, coil heating will increase, which is not good for the coil.
And there will be less tolerance for point wear (the gap will close up faster as the rubbing block wears).
Otherwise, your performance will not change.
If you are asking about the apparent mismatch between expected dwell and point gap... If the points are used, they will have a rough surface, which will make the gap seem smaller when measured with a feeler gauge than the dwell would indicate.
With new points, the relationship between gap and dwell would be in the range shown in the specifications.
But really, 0.020" gap and 22° dwell isn't too far off.
Setting by dwell gives the most accuracy in every case.
As you close the gap, the dwell (the time the points stay closed) increases.
With longer dwell, coil heating will increase, which is not good for the coil.
And there will be less tolerance for point wear (the gap will close up faster as the rubbing block wears).
Otherwise, your performance will not change.
If you are asking about the apparent mismatch between expected dwell and point gap... If the points are used, they will have a rough surface, which will make the gap seem smaller when measured with a feeler gauge than the dwell would indicate.
With new points, the relationship between gap and dwell would be in the range shown in the specifications.
But really, 0.020" gap and 22° dwell isn't too far off.
Setting by dwell gives the most accuracy in every case.
#21
Dwell is the number of degrees (out of 360) during which the points are open and the coil is charging. So if you set the gap wider (static setting) then the dwell will be greater (dynamic measurement). Taking this to the absurd, if the gap were an inch (impossible) the dwell would be huge. Actually the coil doesn't charge but a voltage builds up in the windings and when the points close then that voltage is able to collapse and you get a high current pulse. We say charge but that really applies to capacitors not coils.
#22
From https://www.howacarworks.com/ignitio...e-dwell-angle:
"A dwell meter ... registers the dwell angle - the period when they are closed."
"A dwell meter ... registers the dwell angle - the period when they are closed."
#24
FWIW I looked up a 1949 Olds six cylinder in my old Motor's Manual.
It shows a point gap of .022 and a dwell of 31 thru 37 degrees.
I agree that a dwell meter setting is more accurate than a point gap setting.
It shows a point gap of .022 and a dwell of 31 thru 37 degrees.
I agree that a dwell meter setting is more accurate than a point gap setting.
#26
If you're trying to establish the point gap (which I believe you stated earlier) rather than a dwell meter, make certain the set screw holding the contact points to the distributor base plate is secured well. It's easy for the contact points to slip enough to throw off the contact point gap when you reassemble the distributor.
#27
Agree. Additionally, I'll add you need to ensure your meter is capable of being used on a 6V system (your 1949 straight 6 installed into a 1948 chassis should be a 6V system I do believe). The dwell meter should specifically state it will work on both a 6V & a 12V (negative ground) system. If it's only good on a 12V system, you'll need to use a 12V companion battery; then, there's the notion of whether your meter is a two-wire meter or a three-wire meter.
If you're trying to establish the point gap (which I believe you stated earlier) rather than a dwell meter, make certain the set screw holding the contact points to the distributor base plate is secured well. It's easy for the contact points to slip enough to throw off the contact point gap when you reassemble the distributor.
If you're trying to establish the point gap (which I believe you stated earlier) rather than a dwell meter, make certain the set screw holding the contact points to the distributor base plate is secured well. It's easy for the contact points to slip enough to throw off the contact point gap when you reassemble the distributor.
Is this my issue?
#28
No idea. Evidently you have no instruction manual? A quick on-line search demonstrates a ~40 yr old meter - which is fine if it’s working condition and you know how to use it. A fair # for sale, saw a couple of instruction manuals for sale. Sorry, can’t help on model and/or usage but obviously it needs to be set correctly.
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