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What kind of gas to use? Do you guys recommend using premium gas for a classic car? Also since this is not a vehicle I use every day. Do I still try to keep the tank full? Do I only keep it half full and try to run most of the gias out and then refill? I’m curious what most of you guys do
No need to run premium fuel, It' would be a waste with 8 to 1 compression. I usually keep my tank above the 1/2 mark in case I travel East it's 60 some miles to the first gas in that direction and I always feel better running on the top half of the tank, it cost the same with less worries anyway.... Tedd
Thanks everyone for all the help! Some good news. My 55 came back from the shop and is in much better running condition overall.
They worked on the brakes, and u-joints, parking brake, bearings, carburetor adjustments, steam cleaned the engine to remove a lot of the old oil and grease, and a lot more.
I feel much better and safer about driving it now. And there are a lot less fumes coming into the cabin, so I feel much better about taking if for spins.
After getting it home I removed most of the old door bumpers, and replaced them with new ones. However, I found that a few of them are not held on by screws at all, but are just push in types that are held in place by their rubber bases. So, I will need to order a few more of those types.
Some other good news, I began troubleshooting the horn. My buddie came over to do it with me, and while he was standing right in front of the horns I put the jumper wire on the horn relay, from the battery terminal to the horn terminal, and boy did the two of us jump when we got blasted by a strong clear double horn sounding off.
I was glad to find that at least the horn itself is in good working order.
I will order a new horn relay and hope that is all it takes, though I know the issue could be in the horn button in the steering wheel.
My question and issue at this point is where to get power from the battery for the horn relay??? As I mentioned before, the wire that went to the battery terminal on the horn relay was cut at that terminal, and there is no obvious loose wire around that I can see that I can use to bring power to the new horn relay that I purchase.
Any suggestions guys??
On a lighter note, my daughter drove me along with her friend to pick the car up at the shop, and on the way explained to her that we were picking up an old classic car from the repair shop. There was no reaction from her at that time, but when she saw the car she was ecstatic and fell in love with it at first sight.
This has been the fun and unexpected thing for me. So many people walking down the street, who normally never would even say a word often stop and say "Hey, nice car, or wow, they don't make them like that anymore", and so many wonderful comments. It brings a smile to my face in this fast paced world that we live in to see people break out of their little private world and to start talking to a stranger like that.
Is the black box across the way from the horn relay in this picture the voltage regulator? Is that where the power comes from?? If so, can you guys tell me which terminal to use on the voltage regulator to bring power back to that middle terminal on the horn relay???
Appreciate any insights or info you guys can offer
Hi guys, here is an update on my horn restoration for my 1955 Olds Super 88 4 Door Hardtop.
Today I spent almost the whole day working on the horn as well as working on quite a few other areas.
Since the horns themselves are working great, I first tried to replace the horn relay. But that by itself didn't fix it. So, next a friend and I removed the horn button cap, and checked out the rubber donut and all the other working parts. I thought there would be a lot of old dry rubber needing to be replaced, and other obvious issues, but actually it is all in quite good shape.
Getting under the dash and looking around for the switch wire from the horn relay that goes to the steering column didn't turn up too much either. But I did find that the old fuse panel had been swapped out for a new one, and all those wire connections had been cut and wired in to the new fuse panel.
So, I wonder if they lost the horn wire in the process, or miss wired it. Sadly, after all that work, I still don't know where the problem lies.
Seems at this point it might be easier though to run a new wire from the horn relay to the steering column, or something along those lines. Well, I would appreciate your thoughts.
Good news though, I was able to finally remove a stubborn rusty door hinge screw, that has been holding me up from replacing a door hinge with a missing pin. It's the driver's side back door hinge on the bottom. Any idea where I can get one?
I also worked on getting a lot of the dash board ***** moving again. Like those for heat, and defrost, and air. Some were at a point of not moving at all, now some are moving quite smoothly and others not great, but much better than they were before.
I also got the Courtesy Light switch moving. And I found that the big hose that goes under the dash board that carries warm air to the defrost/heat ports was not really connected. It was very dry and cracked and really too short, so I replaced it with some new hose.
I also found my missing radio **** in the glove compartment. That is a really nice find!
I cleaned up the terminals for the fan that circulates the air throughout the car's interior, and that seems to be blowing ok, although only at one speed even though there is a low and high speed for it.
I opened the windshield wiper fluid reservoir to find the large glass jar is still intact.
We also tried to get the license plate light working, but no success there.
Quite a few other small things, so overall not a bad day, but just wish we could located the problem with the horn.
Well, thank so much for listening, and for all your help and support!
I remember when I "woke up" my 56 after a 20 year sleep, I had no horn, reverse lights, interior lights, fuel gauge, dash lights, directionals, blower motor, and on and on. I tackled one thing at a time. Success in small steps
Your story is like dasiviou all over again, like ignachuck I also had with problems with most everything you have had. My issue with my license plate light was the ground and corrosion. The issue with you two speed heater motor may be in the relay under the dash that is activated by the heater controls. By the way be especially careful with those stuck controls they are hard to repair if they break at the **** and as far as I know they are not reproduced..... As stated above one thing at a time..... Tedd
Today I was able to pick up some floor carpets for my car. Both front and back, and in my color - Green, and they are original to my car.
I got them from a really nice guy here who has been dealing in old car parts since 1972. I went to his personal residence where he has a woods and many buildings full of old car parts. Quite an experience
Should you ever be needing anything hard to find, check out Old Car Parts in Portland, Oregon. His son runs the shop today.
These floor carpets he had been holding on to for 30 years!
I am also thinking to have him rebuild my original carburetor. My car came with another carb on it, it runs ok, but wonder if it wouldn't be even better if it had its own carb back on it.
There is a good chance it will shift better with the original 4 GC if that has been a problem in the past. The rochester transmission linkage is set up for your transmission. If your carb guy is good that carb will run as good as you will find for a 60+ year car. They were used on most GM cars from 54 to the mid sixties.... Tedd
Thanks for the advice Ted! It actually shifts ok, as long as you are somewhat patient with her. She doesn't like sudden heavy gunning on the gas pedal, but other than that not too bad I think.
But one question I do have for you is this. When driving on the highway, and I have it in Drive, it generally will shift back down to S/Super on it's own and stay there, which would seem to me to be too low for speeds around 60 miles per hour, so then I end up slowing down to 45 to 50.
Do you think this can be related to having a different carb in there, or that the carb is not in sink as it should be with the trans as you and others have talked about?
Besides working on my 55 Olds, I just got done restoring a 1959 Coke Machine. Got the temp set to 38 degrees with some pop and beer in glass bottles in it. Going to watch a movie with the neighbors to night for the first time since it has been working. I think they will get a real kick out of it.
But one question I do have for you is this. When driving on the highway, and I have it in Drive, it generally will shift back down to S/Super on it's own and stay there, which would seem to me to be too low for speeds around 60 miles per hour, so then I end up slowing down to 45 to 50.
Do you think this can be related to having a different carb in there, or that the carb is not in sink as it should be with the trans as you and others have talked about?
Yes , this is exactly the problem .
The lever on the trans should be back against it's stop at wide open throttle . And it should be all the way foreward with the throttle at idle .
This linkage tells the transmission where the throttle is at so that it may shift into the proper gear at the right time .
Yes , this is exactly the problem .
The lever on the trans should be back against it's stop at wide open throttle . And it should be all the way foreward with the throttle at idle .
This linkage tells the transmission where the throttle is at so that it may shift into the proper gear at the right time .
What he said.... Other carbs can be made to work but will test your fabrication skills..... Tedd
Thank you Charlie and Tedd. Ok, I will move forward with having the carb rebuilt.
Also, some other good news, another Classic Olds member was able to come up with a door hinge for me, as one of the pins on a back door hinge is missing.
So, little by little it's coming together!
My main concern still is with the brakes. I have had a lot of people work on the brakes, and they are better than ever. But the other day I took it for a 35 minute drive, and once on the way out, and once on the way back, the brakes went soft on me for a moment, and then returned. I think it must be a loss of vacuum issue.
The power booster was rebuilt and is working 95% of the time, but boy that 5% when it isn't is very scary.
I push on the brake pedal, but there is very little response, then I let off and they come back and everything is ok. But it could have easily turned into an accident if I really needed to stop, like at a crosswalk or something.
For starters after running your car and building up vacuum let it set for 5 minutes with the engine off and then remove the vacuum hose from the carburetor or at the vacuum tank under the left hand side frame rail. There should be the sound of sucking air. If no sound start looking for either a bad hose (crack or split) or the valve in the hose near the carb connection could be bad. Sounds like you have a vacuum leak hopefully it's in the hose or tank and not in the treadle-vac. Is the peddle hard when this happens? Tedd
Last edited by Tedd Thompson; August 15th, 2019 at 07:47 AM.
Thanks Ted, like I said, 95 % of the time I seem to be getting good vaccum, but yes when it goes out for a moment, the peddle gets hard. I am pushing, but it doesn't go down much and their is very little response, but then it comes back to life.
I will try some of those things that you suggested to look at.
Could be the treadle-vac but before you attack it clean out the check valve behind the carburetor in the hose. the fact that it is intermittent makes me feel that it is the valve. Crud in either one will cause that symptom but in my experience if the inners of the treadle-vac get contaminated it will not be intermittent....Tedd
Thanks guys, it takes time to follow up and see what is going on, but I really appreciate the support!
How are things with your cars? Doing any car shows this summer?
John in Medford, OR finally got off the door hinge for me from his parts car, and is mailing that up to me, so I am looking forward to finally getting the old one changed out.
Slowed down this year with the shows. I do the cars and coffee on a regular basis and a few shows. Some with the Olds and some with th Miata and a few with them both if I have a extra driver. Nothing like what I used to in the past. I haven't taken the Old's on a long trip in a couple years, I've gotta get something planned pretty soon...... Tedd
Nice, I was driving around my neighborhood the other day and found a guy with 5 classic cars just around the corner! I pulled into his driveway with my 55 and he took me into his garage and showed me all of his cars. Neat how you can make new friends so easily!
I took my carb in to be rebuilt today too, so a little progress all the time. I was also able to pick up a 1955 Oregon Plate for it !
John, on another subject, I have replaced my rear door window glass. Try Vintage Glass. Excellent. https://www.vintageglass.com/
Originally Posted by johnlivo
Thanks as always guys! I will check out vintage glass. Did you do the installation yourself then? How difficult is it to install glass on a 1955 super 88? Are there any good YouTube videos out there you would recommend?
I too am looking at replacing all the side glass, weather stripping, and channel kits in my '54 Super 88 2-door sedan.
Would be great to hear from the folks that have done this project!
Last edited by Gofishgobig; May 17th, 2020 at 08:18 AM.
Reason: Error
Thanks as always guys! I will check out vintage glass. Did you do the installation yourself then? How difficult is it to install glass on a 1955 super 88? Are there any good YouTube videos out there you would recommend?
Hey wait a second! I just remembered that I have one rear door glass that I bought by mistake from Vintage years ago that will fit your car. It's not tinted. Check to see if your windows are tinted. It will say "E Z Eye" if tinted.
If they are not, you can have this one (still in the original box) for $25.. which is less than 1/2 what I paid for it, plus shipping.
I would be glad to buy the window off of you Frank. Is there a difference in the shape of the glass between the right side and left side?
My windows are not tinted. At least I don't think so.
John
John, right side and left side are the same.
If you have paypal, pm me with your paypal user name, and your mailing address. I will send you a paypal invoice with the total price once I get the shipping cost.
Hi guys, I hope you all have had a good summer. I was able to enjoy a few nice rides in my Super 88 this summer, and with all of your help made a lot of progress throughout the car.
Just want to thank you for standing by me!
Also, for those who remember my Braking issue. The last few times I drove it, I didn't have a problem with the brakes. Also, I realized that we were using different terminology. Many times when you guys used the term Treadle-vac I really didn't know what you were talking about. But early on in my repairs I picked up a kit to restore the big break cylinder for the break booster. I think this must be the Treadle-vac right??
So, what am I doing now?
Well, I have a number of winter projects.
1. I was able to get a new door hinge from one of the guys in the forum here, but I have one very stubborn screw/fastener that just won't budge. I even used an impact driver on it, which was what it took to get one other stubborn screw loose. But the final one won't move at all. Would it help to remove the door panel? Would this allow me to get in there with some lubricant to loosen it up??
2. I have a guy re-building my carb.
3. I picked up some original floor carpets, and in my color green!
4. Got three cracked windows that I hope to replace. I assume this is also a good time to get inside the doors and lube up the gears for the window cranks?
5. I picked up an original license plate from 1955 so I will have the registration changed so that I can use it.
So, little by little it is getting there. Thanks again. All the best to you with your own projects!
Treadle-Vac is the trade name of the power brake unit used on the '55 Olds .
As for your other questions ;
1. If you don't have one , get a 1955 Olds service manual . It will be invaluable when you go to replace the window glass ; https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...service+manual
Yes , by all means remove the door panels and use a good penetrant on the backside of the screws . B'laster works best for me ; https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b...rating+&pos=14
The window regulators will need to be cleaned with mineral spirits and re-lubed with white grease .
A local glass shop should be able to make widows for you using the old ones for patterns if they are only cracked .They will also be able to "set " them in the window channels for you .
As long as the door panels are off , you Might As Well take them to an upholstery shop where they can make new ones using new cardboard panels and fabrics from SMS Fabrics; https://smsautofabrics.com/collections/1955-oldsmobile
Last edited by Charlie Jones; September 16th, 2019 at 04:56 PM.
Have you gotten the door hinge screw out yet? I'm guessing that you've had penetrant on that stubborn door hinge screw for quite a while. One other thing that will help, heat the screw mildly with one of those small soldering torches, Be carful of setting the penetrant on fire! But heating it with the penetrant already around it may loosen it up enough to get it moving. As the screw expands, it will break the rust holding it in place. You may have to wait for it to cool down again before hitting it again with an impact wrench.
As an alternative, heat the surrounding area, and hit the screw itself with acetone. The acetone will evaporate quickly, cooling the screw as the surrounding material has expanded with the heat. Again, breaking the rust bonds as the metals expand and contract.
Thanks for the advice DFitz! Did put some things on the door hinge to try to loosen it up, and got one of the fasteners out, only to find one more hidden in there that I didn't know about!
What is bumming more than that though is the condition of the brakes. I have spent a lot of money and time trying to get them up to speed, thought they finally were too, but when I took it out for a short drive the other day they were really weak and failing again.
I guess I will take it back to the shop that worked on it last, but ... really not sure what to do anymore.
Thanks for the advice DFitz! Did put some things on the door hinge to try to loosen it up, and got one of the fasteners out, only to find one more hidden in there that I didn't know about!
What is bumming more than that though is the condition of the brakes. I have spent a lot of money and time trying to get them up to speed, thought they finally were too, but when I took it out for a short drive the other day they were really weak and failing again.
I guess I will take it back to the shop that worked on it last, but ... really not sure what to do anymore.
Actually, I'm working on my brakes at the moment. It really isn't rocket science....ha ha.
Anyway another thing to check would be the manual adjusters on each brake. Since most mechanics today have never seen them, they may not know the brake shoes need to be manually adjusted. As the shoes wear, there is a star like gear at the bottom of each assembly, that screws in and out to move the shoes closer to the drums as they wear. It's not hard to do, just a bit messy. Be sure to wear a mask while doing this. You don't want to breath in the brake dust.
If you were able to get a copy of your car's manual, it should have some pictures in there. It is slightly more complicated than that, but the first time you do this, you really need to pull the drum to see it. You can do it without pulling the drum, but for the first one, take a look first.
Thanks again Dfitz, yes I am somewhat aware of the star like manual adjustments, unfortunately, my impression is that it is something more serious than that, but they are worth check.
Have you tried the vacuum check valve yet? Does your vacuum tank hold a vacuum. If yes it is most likely the booster. There are a bunch of places and parts it can leak from if not assembled correctly. If your guy is not handy with 65 year boosters send it off to someone who specialize in these parts. They are nothing like a modern booster..... Tedd
This summer a mechanic did a lot of work on my brakes including new shoes, and they seemed to be working quite well after that for the few short drives I did after the work was done.
But then the other day I took it for a longer drive, about 50 minutes and more stop and go driving and when I was close to home they were barely working and I could smell some brake odors. I was glad to get home without and accident.
I asked the mechanic and he says it is because we didn't install new brake drums at the same time. So, the fit isn't perfect. He also says the old drums are beyond working with to get them to fit better with the new shoes. Though they still have some life in them.
I asked an old timer friend who really knows old cars and he says it is because the old brake drums don't work well with the new shoes, once the new shoes warm up they start to slip and don't grip well with the old drums which require different type of material in the shoes.
What would you guys recommend and do you know anyone who sells brake parts for a 1955 Super 88 Olds reasonably?
Try 2blu442 in Medford post#4 he is parting out a 54 and a 55 and may have those drums.. If I'm not mistaken 54 and 55 are the same. John is a good guy to do businesses with and prices his parts very competitively..... Tedd
July 20th, 2019, 11:44 PM
