1957 Oldsmobile Timing Cover
#1
1957 Oldsmobile 88 Timing Cover
Hey Friends,
1957 Oldsmobile 88
for context, no factory AC or power steering.
It’s been a lot of staring and asking my self what the heck is going on and how did I get here… LOL! So here it goes, it all started with an oil change that led to dropping the pan and then, removing the radiator… (on a separate thread).
I decided to remove the timing cover… why, I don’t know but felt like I had to. Overall not a hard job since I have both the oil pan removed and radiator removed.
My first question, anything that I should be paying attention, aside from any obvious oil leaks, broken timing chain Luckily I don’t see a broken timing chain.
Second question, is there a trick to replace the oil seal that is located on the timing cover? The shop manual calls for a special tool but feel like theres a way without the tool called out?
In the meantime, I am soaking the cover in parts cleaner, and used a can of engine cleaner.
Below is some of the carnage that occurred today…
1957 Oldsmobile 88
for context, no factory AC or power steering.
It’s been a lot of staring and asking my self what the heck is going on and how did I get here… LOL! So here it goes, it all started with an oil change that led to dropping the pan and then, removing the radiator… (on a separate thread).
I decided to remove the timing cover… why, I don’t know but felt like I had to. Overall not a hard job since I have both the oil pan removed and radiator removed.
My first question, anything that I should be paying attention, aside from any obvious oil leaks, broken timing chain Luckily I don’t see a broken timing chain.
Second question, is there a trick to replace the oil seal that is located on the timing cover? The shop manual calls for a special tool but feel like theres a way without the tool called out?
In the meantime, I am soaking the cover in parts cleaner, and used a can of engine cleaner.
Below is some of the carnage that occurred today…
Last edited by dangulo4; December 24th, 2023 at 06:27 PM.
#2
Grab the chain halfway between the sprockets.
If you can move it more than 1/4 inch either way it's time to replace the chain and sprockets.
The seal might be pressed in with a large socket of the right size.
A press is preferrable to hammering it in.
If you can move it more than 1/4 inch either way it's time to replace the chain and sprockets.
The seal might be pressed in with a large socket of the right size.
A press is preferrable to hammering it in.
Last edited by Charlie Jones; December 24th, 2023 at 08:24 PM.
#3
Are you looking for a problem or just cleaning before reassemble? Might have been easier to just pull the engine, clean the engine on a stand and get after the firewall and undercarriage while it's out in the open, just a thought...Tedd
#4
Thanks and will check the play on chain. Per the shop manual doesn’t look like a hard job to replace.
Yes pulling engine did cross my mind but knowing the budget wasn’t there for a full rebuild, this is as far as I want to go for the moment. We shall see as I keep digging into the engine.
Yes pulling engine did cross my mind but knowing the budget wasn’t there for a full rebuild, this is as far as I want to go for the moment. We shall see as I keep digging into the engine.
#5
Nice work on the cleanup. Are you going into the valve covers and rocker shafts for cleaning? At a minimum confirm that the oil returns in the heads are clear. After seeing the oil pan it probably needs to be done.
Keep us updated...
Keep us updated...
#6
Thanks and will check the play on chain. Per the shop manual doesn’t look like a hard job to replace.
Yes pulling engine did cross my mind but knowing the budget wasn’t there for a full rebuild, this is as far as I want to go for the moment. We shall see as I keep digging into the engine.
Yes pulling engine did cross my mind but knowing the budget wasn’t there for a full rebuild, this is as far as I want to go for the moment. We shall see as I keep digging into the engine.
#7
@Sugar Bear I did plan on changing valve cover gaskets but didn’t think of cleaning the rocker shafts, will add to list Thanks
@DFitz I did spend some time today removing the motor mount and learned that there were two different mounts, one for cars with factory AC and one with no AC. Un fortunately Fusik did not carry non AC mount. On bright side, Steele rubber does service non AC mounts what they call “Revulcanization Only” https://www.steelerubber.com/motor-m...ice-25-0073-11
This is more expensive but it is what it is…
Question for you Gents - Prior to removing the timing gear, I have set the engine at TDC by aligning the sprockets at the 12 o’clock position and confirmed that the #1 piston is visible by removing spark plug. Does it matter if the engine is at compression or exhaust stroke since I’m not removing the distributor? Also is there a special tool that helps you align pointers aside from eye balling which is what I have done. Lol
1st pic is showing the sprockets aligned at 12 o’clock position and 2nd is prior to removing motor mount in case any one was interested what non AC mount looks like..
@DFitz I did spend some time today removing the motor mount and learned that there were two different mounts, one for cars with factory AC and one with no AC. Un fortunately Fusik did not carry non AC mount. On bright side, Steele rubber does service non AC mounts what they call “Revulcanization Only” https://www.steelerubber.com/motor-m...ice-25-0073-11
This is more expensive but it is what it is…
Question for you Gents - Prior to removing the timing gear, I have set the engine at TDC by aligning the sprockets at the 12 o’clock position and confirmed that the #1 piston is visible by removing spark plug. Does it matter if the engine is at compression or exhaust stroke since I’m not removing the distributor? Also is there a special tool that helps you align pointers aside from eye balling which is what I have done. Lol
1st pic is showing the sprockets aligned at 12 o’clock position and 2nd is prior to removing motor mount in case any one was interested what non AC mount looks like..
Last edited by dangulo4; December 26th, 2023 at 06:43 PM.
#8
@Sugar Bear I did plan on changing valve cover gaskets but didn’t think of cleaning the rocker shafts, will add to list Thanks
@DFitz I did spend some time today removing the motor mount and learned that there were two different mounts, one for cars with factory AC and one with no AC. Un fortunately Fusik did not carry non AC mount. On bright side, Steele rubber does service non AC mounts what they call “Revulcanization Only” https://www.steelerubber.com/motor-m...ice-25-0073-11
This is more expensive but it is what it is…
Question for you Gents - Prior to removing the timing gear, I have set the engine at TDC by aligning the sprockets at the 12 o’clock position and confirmed that the #1 piston is visible by removing spark plug. Does it matter if the engine is at compression or exhaust stroke since I’m not removing the distributor? Also is there a special tool that helps you align pointers aside from eye balling which is what I have done. Lol
1st pic is showing the sprockets aligned at 12 o’clock position and 2nd is prior to removing motor mount in case any one was interested what non AC mount looks like..
@DFitz I did spend some time today removing the motor mount and learned that there were two different mounts, one for cars with factory AC and one with no AC. Un fortunately Fusik did not carry non AC mount. On bright side, Steele rubber does service non AC mounts what they call “Revulcanization Only” https://www.steelerubber.com/motor-m...ice-25-0073-11
This is more expensive but it is what it is…
Question for you Gents - Prior to removing the timing gear, I have set the engine at TDC by aligning the sprockets at the 12 o’clock position and confirmed that the #1 piston is visible by removing spark plug. Does it matter if the engine is at compression or exhaust stroke since I’m not removing the distributor? Also is there a special tool that helps you align pointers aside from eye balling which is what I have done. Lol
1st pic is showing the sprockets aligned at 12 o’clock position and 2nd is prior to removing motor mount in case any one was interested what non AC mount looks like..
#9
It doesn't matter how the marks are aligned IF and only IF they go back the same way AND the distributor isn't touched. I don't know the factory gear alignment on this generation for TDC on the compression stroke, another member will though.
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