CO53Super88

Can anyone tell me where I would find the oil filter if indeed my car is equipped with one? I seem to remember reading that oil filters were an option in '53 so I don't know if mine has one or not - but I can't spot one anywhere.

Also, I think my dad always used Valvoline 10w-40 conventional oil at a ratio of 4 quarts to one quart of Marvel Mystery Oil when he did oil changes. Anyone agree/disagree with the merits of this?

Thanks.

oldsmobum

Oil filters in those days were not the spin-on type you might be thinking of. It will be a pretty big can with a large paper canister type filter inside of it. A single bolt through the middle of it holds it on, and they are located on the passenger side of the block. Its hard to miss. Good luck

Olds Dad

but they were optional...

CO53Super88

OK, I must not have one then. The only bolt-ons on the passenger side are the generator and the fuel pump.

redoldsman

I never knew they were optional on these engines. You will have to get under the car to see it and it will be on the passenger side. It is a big can with a filter inside. It is a mess to change. They make conversions to a spin on filter that are less than $100.

CO53Super88

Ok, thanks. I will look closer this evening but I'm sure I would have seen it as I did look things over from underneath.

55miketn

I like the Marvel Mystery Oil, but only a pint every few fhousand miles (10). Valvoline is good oil as are others-personal choice.

Highwayman

Does the Valvoline oil have zinc?

rocketdownunder

I just fitted a oil filter adapter kit to my 53, replaces the old canister type, i now use spin on chev filters,if you look under the passanger side exhaust manifold and to the back you will see the canister, i now don't need to get under the car to remove the filter i just get my oil filter wrench and un scew it from the top of the car, i slip it on just under the exhaust manifold and unscrew it, alot less mess,not to mention my back loves it to

CO53Super88

I checked again this evening and took a few pics ... sorry they're a bit dark, I don't have great light in my garage. I couldn't get pics from under the car but I did look carefully there as well. I don't see any sign of an oil filter cannister or spin-on conversion.

rocketdownunder

Okay bud i went out and took some pics to help you out,you can see the white writing on the oil filter also the one where i'm pointing is the base of where the canister sits on but in my case its the billet base which the oil filter sits on, hope this helps.
olds53oilfilter002-1.jpg
olds53oilfilter001-1.jpg

CO53Super88

Thanks rocketdownunder, that helps a lot. I can't tell from my pics whether there is anything similar on mine but I will look again tomorrow when I have better light. Again, thank you.

CO53Super88

Yes it does have zinc/phosphate (ZDDP) - .083/.076 respectively. Some people argue that flat tappets require more ZDDP than that (about double) for proper lubrication, but I disagree. When these engines were originally manufactured the zinc/phosphate levels in the motor oils available at the time were in this same range. It wasn't until the 60's and (especially) the 70's that ZDDP levels were increased substantially and, of course, they have since been decreased by EPA regulations to help prolong the life of catalytic converters. Anyway, my dad never added anything other than Marvel Mystery Oil to his Valvoline 10w40 and he owned the car for 35 years and put about 35k miles on it during that time. And I am not a chemist and don't care to try mixing my own ZDDP-hopped motor oil concoction because too much ZDDP can also cause damage.

CO53Super88

Found it! Right where redoldsman and rocketdownunder said it would be. Easy to see once you know where to look and can get your eye at the right angle (and you have sufficient light).

oldsmobum

Interesting... I didn't know that. To be fair though, these engines got a reputation for premature camshaft wear. If it is a product of the design or materials, or the oil used, is probably up for a very complex debate. Anyone interested should do a search for oil and zinc, then cancel all of your appointments

Valvoline VR-1 contains a higher zinc content for those that worry about it. I just run Rotella.

If you lack the oil filter, which it seems that you do, you have to get an oil filter bracket. That is assuming your block has provisions for it. If you can get under the car, all the action is under that manifold. Have a look see and maybe take some pictures for us. At the very least I see it as valuable useless knowledge

CO53Super88

Actually, I did find the canister oil filter on my car (see my previous post). Very hard to see from both above and below the car - had to use my camera phone at arm's length from the front to take a "blind" pic and then it was clear.

Yeah, the debate about ZDDP is something I don't really want to get into. The info I have is from a GM technical publication written by GM engineer Bob Olree ... here is the link to that publication: https://www.gmtraining.com/tmswebtre...7e.html#story1

I don't fault those who use a high ZDDP oil like Rotella T or ZDDP additives but I don't like the idea that too much ZDDP can actually cause damage so I won't go there. Bottom line - today's oils are much higher qualilty than they were 60 years ago and in addition to the minimum ZDDP also contain other friction reducers that were not available back in the day. Most cam/tappet failures seem to be occuring on new components during break-in after a rebuild anyway and that is when high ZDDP break-in oils should be always be used, which leads me to believe that the failures are not because of lubrication but from poor quality parts to begin with.

CO53Super88

So I changed the oil and canister filter element on my '53 this past weekend. A bit tight crawling under the car but I managed to get it done without covering myself in motor oil. The canister filter is a little messy but really not too bad to deal with as long as you position an oil drain pan carefully. The trickiest part was getting it to drop down past the exhaust manifold once it was detached - tight fit there. The canister is a heavy chunk of metal, let me tell you - it must way 7 pounds empty. I removed the old can gasket, rubbed some fresh oil on the cork seals of the new filter element and the new can gasket (WIX part no. 51121, available from Rock Auto) and put everything back the way it came out. Refilled the sump with 5 quarts of Valvoline 10W40 and 1 quart of Marvel Mystery Oil and she purrs like a kitten.

Run to Rund

Today I would run 15-40 diesel oil like Rotella or delo 400 to get more zinc. Adding a product with ZDDP is a lot better for the engine than diluting the oil with mystery oil, yet many think the latter is good and a standard practice, whereas they think the former is risky for some reason. The whole idea of mouse milk like mystery oil was to add detergents to keep the crankcase sludge-free and today's oils do a fine job there. Don't add stuff that only decreases lubricity of the oil.

D. Yaros

Brad-Penn Motor oils have the needed zinc at the proper levels. One may also simply add a can of STP (blue) to the crankcase to get the needed zinc.

CO53Super88

Well, like I said in a previous post, I don't buy into the need for more than 800ppm ZDDP. This was the amount available in oils used prior to the mid-60's and 70's and, according to GM Lubricants engineer Bob Olree, is all that is needed today for flat tappet lifters (except when breaking-in a new or rebuilt cam and lifters). Valvoline 10W40 conventional has 800ppm ZDDP. MMO is more than just a detergent additive - it also contains a proprietary blend of friction reducers. If it worked for my dad for 35 years I have no reason to think it won't work for me.

Ozzie

You have a lot of good suggestions. The oil filter was optional equipment until the 1957 model year, and was an excellent elective. After changing oil in a 1955 Olds for about 50 years, I can recommend using a snug fitting six point socket or six point box end wrench for both the can's center bolt and the filter's drain plug. Also be sure there is no residue remaining from the old gasket in the recess or on the end of the can. The recommended torque for the can's center bolt is 40 ft.-lbs., and that for the filter's drain plug is 20 ft.-lbs. The filter's drain plug is handy to get the oil out of the filter in a clean manner. This is especially good for people who change their oil more frequently than the filter. The Wix filter cartridge seems to be a good choice; good quality at a reasonable cost. I'm still researching the zinc question. It's difficult to determine the zinc content of any particular batch of oil.

CO53Super88

The filter can on my '53 doesn't actually have a drain plug - just the center bolt. Thanks for the torque info, I didn't have that.

Tedd Thompson

I always use a zinc additive on break in and the use of Marvel Mistery Oil has been used for years in Olds as a upper valve train lubricant, they have a tendency to stick lifters and this seems to prevent this.The debate of high zinc low zinc, synthetic, diesel, regular oil will go on for years to come. I feel if you use a quality oil of which ever kind floats your boat after brake in I think you will do just fine.

About the gasket in your canister filter I seldom change it if it looks to be in good shape, I've had more problems with a new gasket getting a fish mouth in it than an old one leaking once set in it's proper place...Just a few opinions and observations....Tedd

Ozzie

After re-reading the parts book footnotes, it appears that they had oil filter mounting base assemblies (the part the can screws onto) made from both cast iron and cast aluminum through the 1953 model year. They show drain plugs all the way back to 1949. The one I have in the 1955 is a cast aluminum base with a steel can (the parts book calls it "shell"). Perhaps the drain plugs were only on the aluminum base versions. If you thought that that the drain plug would be helpful, you might be able to add it by changing the base assembly if you could locate a donor. It should be a straightforward job. It's held by four bolts and has a tap for the oil pressure gauge.

Yellowstatue

The drain plug is on the casting that the filter case fits into...square head plug, 3/8" or 7/16"...

CO53Super88

OK, that makes more sense - and thanks to yellowstatue for that info too. I did not see the drain plug on the base while I was under there but I'm sure that's the setup on mine as well.

Good advice from Tedd too. The canister gasket I removed fit the groove on the base really well and was in good shape. I was careful to reseat the new one in the same manner and pre-lube it with a bit of fresh oil between my fingers. I can see how one could get pinched and cause a leak, though. So far mine isn't showing any signs of leakage - I'll keep my eye on it.

Russ P in MD

Not sure if they were originally used on Oldsmobiles or how well they work, but I've also see the cannisters with a drain plug on the front end, near the bottom edge.