Carburetor linkage
#1
Carburetor linkage
My carb saga continues. After getting a valve lifter and cam shaft replacement done, my 55 worked fine until it didn’t. It developed a problem where it would just slow down and die. It would restart, only to do it again. Finally, it wouldn’t start at all. It acted like it had no compression and when checked with my newly purchased gauge, the readings were in the 40’s and 50’s. I spoke to my mechanic who suggested doing a “wet” compression test. So I repeated the test with a few squirts of transmission fluid in each cylinder. Pressures came up to the low 100’s on most of the cylinders. After reinstalling the plugs, I pumped the gas twice and turned the key. It started right up and has been running fine since. I’m not sure why. The mechanic said it must have been flooded and “washed down”. Not sure what that even means. But the real problem now appears to be in the carb linkage.
When I drive around the block (I don’t trust it yet to get very far from home) it shifts normally through all the gears. But on acceleration, it does not downshift and it accelerates very slowly. I suspect the carb/transmission linkage is the culprit. The car has an Edelbrock carb that was on the car when I bought it and the shifting was fine after I attached a piece of the linkage that was found laying up against the back of the engine. Obviously, the carb was removed for the engine work referenced above and the linkage alignment must have been altered during the reinstall. I adjusted the linkage according to my service manual to no avail. I understand that those instructions are for a Rochester carb not an Edelbrock. Has anybody out there figured out what needs to be done to the suspect linkage to make the tranny work correctly? Does it need to be longer? Shorter? Any ideas will be appreciated.
When I drive around the block (I don’t trust it yet to get very far from home) it shifts normally through all the gears. But on acceleration, it does not downshift and it accelerates very slowly. I suspect the carb/transmission linkage is the culprit. The car has an Edelbrock carb that was on the car when I bought it and the shifting was fine after I attached a piece of the linkage that was found laying up against the back of the engine. Obviously, the carb was removed for the engine work referenced above and the linkage alignment must have been altered during the reinstall. I adjusted the linkage according to my service manual to no avail. I understand that those instructions are for a Rochester carb not an Edelbrock. Has anybody out there figured out what needs to be done to the suspect linkage to make the tranny work correctly? Does it need to be longer? Shorter? Any ideas will be appreciated.
#2
If it were me, i would put the old carburetor on and measure where the throttle shaft is against something on the engine and then put on the aftermarket carb and see if they are the same measuring or not, if they are different you can add/subtract from the linkage from what is stated in the manual, if they are the same though, i don't really know what to tell you, maybe its transmission related?
With that being said, 100psi is very low for a compression number, might be time for a rebuild.
With that being said, 100psi is very low for a compression number, might be time for a rebuild.
Last edited by ub2693v; April 10th, 2023 at 10:15 AM.
#3
Unfortunately, the car came to me with the Edelbrock already installed. I do not have the original. The compression numbers were #1,132; #2,111; #3, 111; #4, 107; #5, 88; #6, 82; #7, 95; and #8, 118. I think that maybe I didn’t get enough ATF in #5, 6, and 7 resulting in the lower numbers. There is not a rebuild in the budget at this time although I have considered it. I ordered a fuel pressure and vacuum gauge today. It is possible that my non-performance could be related to low fuel pressure with the engine simply not getting enough gas to go. I also will be getting the timing checked - another possible power robber. Thanks for your response.
#4
The measurement on mine is 8-5/8” from the center of the pivot on the carb to the center line of where the rear most power steering bolt would be, not terribly accurate but at least you’ll be able to tell if it’s drastically off with an aftermarket carb.
I still need to install the rod between the carb and the trans, I thought I left everything as it was but when I did try to hook it up the rod was too short to connect so I feel your pain. Good luck!!
#6
As you can see, my linkage looks quite a bit different from yours. The comparison measurement on mine is less than 8 inches.
I think the measurements from the arrows to the firewall might be more helpful. As you can see, the rod with #1 has been “repaired” so measuring back to the carb could be a problem. If you could get the measurements on rod #1 from the back of that bracket to the firewall and from the back of that vertical piece of bracket #2 to the firewall, it would be appreciated. If I can get this figured out, I won’t have to pay a mechanic to “trial and error” it.
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