DD Cutlass Supreme wont start
#1
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Location: Malvern, PA (Hometown) Williamsport, PA (College)
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DD Cutlass Supreme wont start
Got in the '71 today, everything was usual except i left the radio power on last night which i usually turn off. She tried to turn over for about 2 cranks then shut off and all the lights and radio died. I popped the hood and checked the battery connections and they were tight, but i heard some kind of electrical connection click. Got back in and she tried to turn for another 2 cranks then died and couldn't make anything happen since. Now nothing electrical works and it won't try at all. Battery has 12V.
I have electronic ignition and I know very little about how it works.
The alternator is aged and I don't know how to check if its working.
Any suggestions appreciated.
Thanks,
E
I have electronic ignition and I know very little about how it works.
The alternator is aged and I don't know how to check if its working.
Any suggestions appreciated.
Thanks,
E
#4
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Location: Malvern, PA (Hometown) Williamsport, PA (College)
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#5
With my Saturn, yes, almost 30 years newer, at times the factory GM cables would get corroded from moisture getting underneath the boot. Although they are tight, the connection may not be solid because of possible corrosion. Try pulling them and inspecting? How about the connection at the starter itself? Just going by personal experience with these things vibrating the nuts off the solenoid stud.
#7
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#8
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I know it's simple to just jump it or charge it up but none of my friends who are awake have jumper cables or a charger. So i'm just trying to understand this car a little better for now until I can make any moves on fixing it.
Thanks
Thanks
#9
Possibly
he says the battery has 12V, but what is the battery voltage while cranking?
"Got in the '71 today, everything was usual except i left the radio power on last night which i usually turn off. She tried to turn over for about 2 cranks then shut off and all the lights and radio died. I popped the hood and checked the battery connections and they were tight, but i heard some kind of electrical connection click. "
==========================
Dead battery or bad cables. In that order.
"Got back in and she tried to turn for another 2 cranks then died and couldn't make anything happen since. Now nothing electrical works and it won't try at all. Battery has 12V."
================
Measured where, while what is happening otherwise??
I have electronic ignition and I know very little about how it works.
=================
First off, do not confuse the IGNITION system with the STARTING system. You can have all the ignition [spark making and timing] system you want, but if the engine won't spin, how are you going to get it started? The CHARGING system is yet another separate circuit- you can check it by either verifying that there is more voltage at the battery when running than when engine is off, or taking the alternator to your local store where they have a testing machine and will tell you it's time for a new alternator so they can sell one.
___1st order of business is to get the starter motor to spin the engine, which has NOTHING to do with the ignition system. The components are few- battery, cables, starter, and some small wiring thru the ignition switch to the solenoid.
The most obvious thing is a charged battery which has ~12V while the ign key is in the START position and the starter is at least trying to engage.
he says the battery has 12V, but what is the battery voltage while cranking?
"Got in the '71 today, everything was usual except i left the radio power on last night which i usually turn off. She tried to turn over for about 2 cranks then shut off and all the lights and radio died. I popped the hood and checked the battery connections and they were tight, but i heard some kind of electrical connection click. "
==========================
Dead battery or bad cables. In that order.
"Got back in and she tried to turn for another 2 cranks then died and couldn't make anything happen since. Now nothing electrical works and it won't try at all. Battery has 12V."
================
Measured where, while what is happening otherwise??
I have electronic ignition and I know very little about how it works.
=================
First off, do not confuse the IGNITION system with the STARTING system. You can have all the ignition [spark making and timing] system you want, but if the engine won't spin, how are you going to get it started? The CHARGING system is yet another separate circuit- you can check it by either verifying that there is more voltage at the battery when running than when engine is off, or taking the alternator to your local store where they have a testing machine and will tell you it's time for a new alternator so they can sell one.
___1st order of business is to get the starter motor to spin the engine, which has NOTHING to do with the ignition system. The components are few- battery, cables, starter, and some small wiring thru the ignition switch to the solenoid.
The most obvious thing is a charged battery which has ~12V while the ign key is in the START position and the starter is at least trying to engage.
#10
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Malvern, PA (Hometown) Williamsport, PA (College)
Posts: 131
Possibly
he says the battery has 12V, but what is the battery voltage while cranking?
"Got in the '71 today, everything was usual except i left the radio power on last night which i usually turn off. She tried to turn over for about 2 cranks then shut off and all the lights and radio died. I popped the hood and checked the battery connections and they were tight, but i heard some kind of electrical connection click. "
==========================
Dead battery or bad cables. In that order.
"Got back in and she tried to turn for another 2 cranks then died and couldn't make anything happen since. Now nothing electrical works and it won't try at all. Battery has 12V."
================
Measured where, while what is happening otherwise??
I have electronic ignition and I know very little about how it works.
=================
First off, do not confuse the IGNITION system with the STARTING system. You can have all the ignition [spark making and timing] system you want, but if the engine won't spin, how are you going to get it started? The CHARGING system is yet another separate circuit- you can check it by either verifying that there is more voltage at the battery when running than when engine is off, or taking the alternator to your local store where they have a testing machine and will tell you it's time for a new alternator so they can sell one.
___1st order of business is to get the starter motor to spin the engine, which has NOTHING to do with the ignition system. The components are few- battery, cables, starter, and some small wiring thru the ignition switch to the solenoid.
The most obvious thing is a charged battery which has ~12V while the ign key is in the START position and the starter is at least trying to engage.
he says the battery has 12V, but what is the battery voltage while cranking?
"Got in the '71 today, everything was usual except i left the radio power on last night which i usually turn off. She tried to turn over for about 2 cranks then shut off and all the lights and radio died. I popped the hood and checked the battery connections and they were tight, but i heard some kind of electrical connection click. "
==========================
Dead battery or bad cables. In that order.
"Got back in and she tried to turn for another 2 cranks then died and couldn't make anything happen since. Now nothing electrical works and it won't try at all. Battery has 12V."
================
Measured where, while what is happening otherwise??
I have electronic ignition and I know very little about how it works.
=================
First off, do not confuse the IGNITION system with the STARTING system. You can have all the ignition [spark making and timing] system you want, but if the engine won't spin, how are you going to get it started? The CHARGING system is yet another separate circuit- you can check it by either verifying that there is more voltage at the battery when running than when engine is off, or taking the alternator to your local store where they have a testing machine and will tell you it's time for a new alternator so they can sell one.
___1st order of business is to get the starter motor to spin the engine, which has NOTHING to do with the ignition system. The components are few- battery, cables, starter, and some small wiring thru the ignition switch to the solenoid.
The most obvious thing is a charged battery which has ~12V while the ign key is in the START position and the starter is at least trying to engage.
#11
The batt is undoubtedly discharged from the radio trick. The voltage reading can fool you. voltage can plunge with the starter load. Current or amperage is your friend and the batt is not providing it. Turn on the headlamps and watch 'em brown out when you hit the key.
Charge the battery or jump the car.
Charge the battery or jump the car.
#12
Sorry to say it's a pretty simple fix. Charge or replace battery. If it won't crank, and it did yesterday, your battery is drained... possible dead. You can have 12 volts with nothing on, but when you crank, it's probably less than 9V.
#13
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Location: Malvern, PA (Hometown) Williamsport, PA (College)
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Ok I'll have to believe that its the battery since you all think that's my problem. I'll get around to jumping it in a little bit.
The reason I wanted to be so sure of this diagnosis is that when I first got the car (2 Months ago) it shut off on me in the rain while driving and listening to the radio. I believe that was due to the battery cable quick disconnect being loose, but it was never verified 100%.
The reason I wanted to be so sure of this diagnosis is that when I first got the car (2 Months ago) it shut off on me in the rain while driving and listening to the radio. I believe that was due to the battery cable quick disconnect being loose, but it was never verified 100%.
#15
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My roommate and I jumped the cutlass, took about 10 minutes before it was able to turn over, I let it run for about 20 minutes and shut it off for 5 seconds, when I tried again...nothing?
So did I completely kill my battery just from leaving the radio power on?
So did I completely kill my battery just from leaving the radio power on?
#16
you probably have a bad cell, will not hold a charge under load. NEW Battery time
if/when you replace the battery be sure to test the voltage at the battery with engine running... it should be 13.5 - 14.2 volts. If it is lower than that range you may want to have the alternator checked.
if/when you replace the battery be sure to test the voltage at the battery with engine running... it should be 13.5 - 14.2 volts. If it is lower than that range you may want to have the alternator checked.
Last edited by JPMDaddy; August 24th, 2013 at 10:48 AM. Reason: more suggestion
#19
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Location: Malvern, PA (Hometown) Williamsport, PA (College)
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I got a new battery from NAPA with a student discount for $72 and some change and tightened the connectors to right under the point of breaking. Runs great.
The old battery was leaking juice and was 3 years old so time for new.
The old battery was leaking juice and was 3 years old so time for new.
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