Starter problem
#1
Starter problem
I'm having trouble starting the car I thought it was the starter so I went out to buy a new one (rebuilt) at advance well I put the new one in and it turned over and then after afew seconds it stopped turning over battery is new!! I thought I put it in wrong but I put it back the same way the old one was can any one please explain what wire goes where I have three wires one from the battery that goes to the big lead on the starter and one that goes to the s and the third was just hangin there PLEASE HELP all it does is click this is the second starter
#2
Hello again I pulled a the wires leading to the starter there is a purple and a yellow and the one that goes from the battery to see what's going on and the stater gear is pulling out from the stater but the starter is not spining what do you guys think is going on
#6
Also check the ground wires - ALL of them!
To the motor from battery, to the core support from battery, and the two from the firewall to the engine.
Make sure they're CLEAN and tight!!
I always check even a new starter by using jumper cables - negative to case, positive to large bolt, and an old screwdriver to jump the two small posts.
In a vise or on the ground, with your foot on it, as it'll jump!
To the motor from battery, to the core support from battery, and the two from the firewall to the engine.
Make sure they're CLEAN and tight!!
I always check even a new starter by using jumper cables - negative to case, positive to large bolt, and an old screwdriver to jump the two small posts.
In a vise or on the ground, with your foot on it, as it'll jump!
#10
MDchanic, Rickman48
Thank You, very much you guys are the best!!!! I changed both the pos & neg cables cleaned all the grounds like you said and it started it stumbles as if the battey was dead but then it cranks right up any ideas on that? Again THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!!
Thank You, very much you guys are the best!!!! I changed both the pos & neg cables cleaned all the grounds like you said and it started it stumbles as if the battey was dead but then it cranks right up any ideas on that? Again THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!!
#11
You're welcome.
Timing could be advanced too far.
Does it do this both hot and cold, or only when it's warm?
- Eric
Does it do this both hot and cold, or only when it's warm?
- Eric
#12
cold and my timing is out of wack, the dist cap is lose I can turn it very easyly I just don't know how to set the timing I do have a timing gun if you can help my with that? I been doing all the work myself and it's taking me back when I was 16 again not scared to do it I'm loving it thanks again Eric
#13
Pull-off and plug the vacuum advance hose.
Hook-up the timing light and set the timing about 4 notches to the left of the '0' mark.
[8 degrees advanced, with todays premium fuel]
#1 is the 1st plug to the front of the drivers side.
You coud put a vacuum guage on the vacuum advance tube, and set the mixture screws to the highest vacuum point at this time, and then re-check your timing.
Put the hose back to the vacuum advance, set your idle RPM, and you're done!!!
Hook-up the timing light and set the timing about 4 notches to the left of the '0' mark.
[8 degrees advanced, with todays premium fuel]
#1 is the 1st plug to the front of the drivers side.
You coud put a vacuum guage on the vacuum advance tube, and set the mixture screws to the highest vacuum point at this time, and then re-check your timing.
Put the hose back to the vacuum advance, set your idle RPM, and you're done!!!
Last edited by Rickman48; April 23rd, 2011 at 07:33 PM.
#14
C'mon, just bite the bullet and buy a timing light.
I see them all the time at yard sales and flea markets for $5-$10.
You can static time it to get a rough adjustment by hooking a test light between the + battery terminal and the + points terminal (- coil terminal), rotating the engine to about 8°, then slowly rotating the distributor until the light just goes out (that is, until the moment the points open). Mark it so you can go back to it, then test drive the car, then make tiny changes in either direction, and keep re-test driving it until it starts to ping, or until it's hard to start.
It's easier to just get a timing light, though.
- Eric
I see them all the time at yard sales and flea markets for $5-$10.
You can static time it to get a rough adjustment by hooking a test light between the + battery terminal and the + points terminal (- coil terminal), rotating the engine to about 8°, then slowly rotating the distributor until the light just goes out (that is, until the moment the points open). Mark it so you can go back to it, then test drive the car, then make tiny changes in either direction, and keep re-test driving it until it starts to ping, or until it's hard to start.
It's easier to just get a timing light, though.
- Eric
#16
Oh yeah. Sorry. A period after "timing" would have helped.
First, set point gap or dwell angle, as these will affect timing.
Then, Red clamp to Positive battery terminal, Black clamp to Negative battery terminal, probe clicked over #1 plug, start engine, point light at timing marks and pull trigger.
It is usually a good idea to go over the markings with chalk or something to make it all easier to read, and also a good idea to avoid getting the wires caught in the fan.
Just follow your manual's instructions about disconnecting vacuum advance and setting the right amount of advance at the right engine speed. Reset idle and mixture afterward.
- Eric
First, set point gap or dwell angle, as these will affect timing.
Then, Red clamp to Positive battery terminal, Black clamp to Negative battery terminal, probe clicked over #1 plug, start engine, point light at timing marks and pull trigger.
It is usually a good idea to go over the markings with chalk or something to make it all easier to read, and also a good idea to avoid getting the wires caught in the fan.
Just follow your manual's instructions about disconnecting vacuum advance and setting the right amount of advance at the right engine speed. Reset idle and mixture afterward.
- Eric
#19
The yellow wire goes to the + side of the coil to provide full voltage to the points during starting (quicker starts if you are still using points ) the purple wire comes from the ignition switch via a fuse in the main fuse panel ( for cranking )
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