Warning Buzzer to Tone module upgrade
August 10th, 2014, 11:13 AM
#1
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 11,798
Warning Buzzer to Tone module upgrade
Early cars often used a couple of raspy sounding buzzers to alert the driver about keys left in ignition or seatbelts not fastened. The sounds the buzzers make are objectionable to many, and the seatbelt buzzer sounds constantly until the belt is fastened. I had made an easy upgrade to my '72 by replacing these with a more pleasant pulsing-tone module with only a short seatbelt warning.
A few of you showed interest in this upgrade, so here are the details how I did it... This discussion applies to '72 Olds A bodies and can be applied (with possible modifications to later years). Remember seatbelt warnings and key-in warnings were not available in many earlier years. If a buzzer was never there from the factory, this upgrade will not work.
The module to be used is a 7-pin electronic tone generator that can come from a variety of GM cars. Touring your favorite yarde de junque will be in order. I would try to get the socket it is in along with some wire if possible. They are often tucked up under the dash, so they are often hard to find and remove. Take nutdrivers, mirror, flashlight, etc. The modules are held in the socket with a clip, often out of sight. The socket may hold other relays or such depending on application. These can be cut off or used later with something.
Module can come from:
1982-1988 G body (a constant tone generator is available on base models, pulsing tone on more equipped ones)
1985-1992 B body (an optional "warning package" was available these years that could replace the 7 pin pulsing tone module, so not all of these vehicles will have the 7 pin module I describe.)
Later 80's Firebirds
Early 90's Caprice (B-body I think) I am using one from a '92 in Lady.
Other vehicles can have the module we need, but the above are ones I actually found them in and know for sure they can be found in.
The later years are preferred. The earlier years used a thin foam spacer on the metal diaphragm that deteriorates over time and renders the sound inaudible. Later years (87 and on) either used a plastic diaphragm edge or replaced the metal diaphragm and coil with a small loudspeaker. I got one with a speaker from a 1989 Buick B body wagon and used it to upgrade the constant tone unit in my '86. Still works today.
Below is the pinout (socket side) and the schematic from the '86 chassis manual. The wiring is same on all the 7-pin modules from vehicles above.
These three terminals MUST be connected for the module to work:
#3 Ground - connect to dash panel
#7 Constant power - connect to courtesy lights/cigar lighter circuit.
#1 Switched power - connect to radio circuit (or any switched FUSED circuit)
The following can be left disconnected if the feature is not needed or wanted:
#8 Lights-on - 12V applied here and switched power OFF will cause tone to sound. Connect to brown running lights circuit (say to lead going to the underhood light). Connecting to the gray dash lights will work, but only if the dimmer works and you do not dim them much.
#6 Key-in - Ground being applied here and switched power OFF will cause tone to sound. Connect to pink-white wire at the turn signal connector under the column. Unplug the same color wire from the key-in buzzer (horn relay) and secure it. On the Cutlass, the ground is applied when key is in AND the driver side door is opened.
#4 Seat belt switch - Ground applied here and switched power ON will cause tone to sound for a few seconds. Connect to retractor and passenger sense switch system at the neutral safety switch (at base of column, black wire). Existing buzzer will need to be unplugged (under the dash, high up to the right of the center AC vent (or where one would be on non-AC cars)). Ground is applied when tranny is in DRIVE and left front seatbelt is retracted and also when right front seatbelt is retracted AND some weight is in the left front seat cushion.
#2 Seat belt warning light - 12V output to warning lamp. If belts are not fastened, light will illuminate for a few seconds then extinguish. This will take a little rewiring skills, as the factory belts light needs a ground to light. I did not even use this since I installed the repro rally pak (does not have the belts light) and did not want to cut the dash for the remote light.
I had collected several tone modules years ago. I tested each one and naturally only half worked. I bought other big stuff at the yard, so the modules were essentially free.
Here is the module from the Caprice, along with part number, made by Lectron.
Since I had failed to get a socket, and I planned to install an alarm system and rewire the radio, I made up a custom wiring harness for all of it. The module requires very little current so 20 gauge wire is sufficient. If the wires will feed other items, beef it up a bit depending on load. How you integrate it to your vehicle's wiring is up to you so will not detail that part here. I popped the terminal pins at connectors, soldered wires to the terminals (just enough) and reinserted them to the connectors. Make sure to tap fuse-protected circuits, make secure connections, and protect the wires in either plastic tubing or the GM non-stick plastic tape (available at resto parts suppliers). Regular electrical tape is not recommended as the sticky goo either seeps out at the edges or it eventually unsticks over time.
Here is my wiring harness which will connect various devices. If you are just adding the tone module, then all you will need are seven 20-gauge wires.
For a mounting bracket I used a U-shaped piece of aluminum that is bolted to the bottom inside of the dash. The module clips right in. Make sure that the sound openings are clear though.
I had toyed with the possibility of using the female sounding voice module from a mid 80's 300zx, but eventually pledged to keep my GM all GM. Not sure how those voice modules even connect and would integrate to another car. Neat idea nonetheless - anyone have any knowledge of those systems?
Systems in late model vehicles (mostly mid 90's and after) are so integrated with their computers and other systems that they cannot be readily used for this application.
A few of you showed interest in this upgrade, so here are the details how I did it... This discussion applies to '72 Olds A bodies and can be applied (with possible modifications to later years). Remember seatbelt warnings and key-in warnings were not available in many earlier years. If a buzzer was never there from the factory, this upgrade will not work.
The module to be used is a 7-pin electronic tone generator that can come from a variety of GM cars. Touring your favorite yarde de junque will be in order. I would try to get the socket it is in along with some wire if possible. They are often tucked up under the dash, so they are often hard to find and remove. Take nutdrivers, mirror, flashlight, etc. The modules are held in the socket with a clip, often out of sight. The socket may hold other relays or such depending on application. These can be cut off or used later with something.
Module can come from:
1982-1988 G body (a constant tone generator is available on base models, pulsing tone on more equipped ones)
1985-1992 B body (an optional "warning package" was available these years that could replace the 7 pin pulsing tone module, so not all of these vehicles will have the 7 pin module I describe.)
Later 80's Firebirds
Early 90's Caprice (B-body I think) I am using one from a '92 in Lady.
Other vehicles can have the module we need, but the above are ones I actually found them in and know for sure they can be found in.
The later years are preferred. The earlier years used a thin foam spacer on the metal diaphragm that deteriorates over time and renders the sound inaudible. Later years (87 and on) either used a plastic diaphragm edge or replaced the metal diaphragm and coil with a small loudspeaker. I got one with a speaker from a 1989 Buick B body wagon and used it to upgrade the constant tone unit in my '86. Still works today.
Below is the pinout (socket side) and the schematic from the '86 chassis manual. The wiring is same on all the 7-pin modules from vehicles above.
These three terminals MUST be connected for the module to work:
#3 Ground - connect to dash panel
#7 Constant power - connect to courtesy lights/cigar lighter circuit.
#1 Switched power - connect to radio circuit (or any switched FUSED circuit)
The following can be left disconnected if the feature is not needed or wanted:
#8 Lights-on - 12V applied here and switched power OFF will cause tone to sound. Connect to brown running lights circuit (say to lead going to the underhood light). Connecting to the gray dash lights will work, but only if the dimmer works and you do not dim them much.
#6 Key-in - Ground being applied here and switched power OFF will cause tone to sound. Connect to pink-white wire at the turn signal connector under the column. Unplug the same color wire from the key-in buzzer (horn relay) and secure it. On the Cutlass, the ground is applied when key is in AND the driver side door is opened.
#4 Seat belt switch - Ground applied here and switched power ON will cause tone to sound for a few seconds. Connect to retractor and passenger sense switch system at the neutral safety switch (at base of column, black wire). Existing buzzer will need to be unplugged (under the dash, high up to the right of the center AC vent (or where one would be on non-AC cars)). Ground is applied when tranny is in DRIVE and left front seatbelt is retracted and also when right front seatbelt is retracted AND some weight is in the left front seat cushion.
#2 Seat belt warning light - 12V output to warning lamp. If belts are not fastened, light will illuminate for a few seconds then extinguish. This will take a little rewiring skills, as the factory belts light needs a ground to light. I did not even use this since I installed the repro rally pak (does not have the belts light) and did not want to cut the dash for the remote light.
I had collected several tone modules years ago. I tested each one and naturally only half worked. I bought other big stuff at the yard, so the modules were essentially free.
Here is the module from the Caprice, along with part number, made by Lectron.
Since I had failed to get a socket, and I planned to install an alarm system and rewire the radio, I made up a custom wiring harness for all of it. The module requires very little current so 20 gauge wire is sufficient. If the wires will feed other items, beef it up a bit depending on load. How you integrate it to your vehicle's wiring is up to you so will not detail that part here. I popped the terminal pins at connectors, soldered wires to the terminals (just enough) and reinserted them to the connectors. Make sure to tap fuse-protected circuits, make secure connections, and protect the wires in either plastic tubing or the GM non-stick plastic tape (available at resto parts suppliers). Regular electrical tape is not recommended as the sticky goo either seeps out at the edges or it eventually unsticks over time.
Here is my wiring harness which will connect various devices. If you are just adding the tone module, then all you will need are seven 20-gauge wires.
For a mounting bracket I used a U-shaped piece of aluminum that is bolted to the bottom inside of the dash. The module clips right in. Make sure that the sound openings are clear though.
I had toyed with the possibility of using the female sounding voice module from a mid 80's 300zx, but eventually pledged to keep my GM all GM. Not sure how those voice modules even connect and would integrate to another car. Neat idea nonetheless - anyone have any knowledge of those systems?
Systems in late model vehicles (mostly mid 90's and after) are so integrated with their computers and other systems that they cannot be readily used for this application.
August 10th, 2014, 05:42 PM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: 25 miles North of Tampa, Land O' Lakes, Florida (Originally from Bethpage, Long Island, NY)
Posts: 332
Wow Bob that's above my electrical pay grade, lol. I will have my buddy take a look at it, I'm sure he can figure it out to work. Thanks for posting this information, I'm looking forward to giving it a shot.
August 11th, 2014, 09:10 AM
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: central Indiana
Posts: 5,283
I did this to my car a couple years ago, it works well. The only issue I have is it dings for a couple seconds when you first turn the key, the "fasten seat belt" reminder. Im not sure if all the chime modules do that, or if I just quit looking after I got a few good ones. Does the one from the 92 Caprice do that?
August 11th, 2014, 05:57 PM
#4
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 11,798
I did this to my car a couple years ago, it works well. The only issue I have is it dings for a couple seconds when you first turn the key, the "fasten seat belt" reminder. Im not sure if all the chime modules do that, or if I just quit looking after I got a few good ones. Does the one from the 92 Caprice do that?
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