auto_editor

In general (if that's possible), is there a range of the total costs to have someone swap out an engine and transmission for another?

My particular question is for an '89 Custom Cruiser (307 V8 + 4-spd. auto), with something like a 350 or larger (might as well get maximum available oomph if it's all getting replaced anyway).

I've worked on other versions of this story, and found that it's the little things that eat money. Even if you choose an engine/trans. combo that was in vehicles like yours, things like matching-up the A/C plumbing can be a pain.

Then again, rebuilding the 307 I have now (or another like it) could be cheaper overall--it still requires the same general amount of labor--but it won't offer the same performance.

Regardless, the labor costs alone seem to be greater than the price for all the hardware, even those "crate" high-performance packages from GM (not that I'm looking at those, I just priced them ).

Thanks in advance...

joe_padavano

The 350 and 403 Olds motors are externally identical to the 307, so other than the cost of the new motor itself, there shouldn't be additional costs. Now, if you are running the new motor off the computer, you'll need non-CCC carb and distributor. Of course, there are the MIGHTASWELLS - new dual exhaust, rebuilt starter, new belts and hoses, etc. As for the trans, I'd keep the 200-4R and beef it up to survive. That could run$ 1000 - $2500.

rustyroger

All your accessories will bolt on to any sbo, if you have your 307 rebuilt it will cost the same as putting them onto another engine.
Might be an idea to get some quotes for the job from a few reputable shops before you go ahead.
Roger.

oldcutlass

I would consider about $2500-3000 to do a light refurb on your motor and trans. This takes into account for tune-up parts, oil and filter, mounts, etc. I don't know what a shop would charge for labor on the R&R of your engine and trans. I would assume maybe $1000 - $1500 labor.

Rickman48

The labor costs are going to depend on how complete the engine is, too, on the R+R.
Shortblock, longblock, complete, complete w/brackets, intake, exhaust manifolds,etc.
Some shops will give a flat price for all, which is preferred over a shop that'll list every procedure seperatly.
Find a good shop with a good reputation, expect to pay from $800 to $1200, and make sure everything's in writing!

auto_editor

FYI and follow-up.

First off, her engine compartment is as close to original/factory as possible. Her carb is still "sealed" (which I hear is unusual for a car with her mileage) and apart from one valve cover gasket replacement requiring what the receipt calls "scraping the head", it's all in never-been-messed-with condition.

SO, my new question is this: how does a 307 in spankin'-new (rebuilt) condition perform? I'm never going to have to worry about her being in "numbers matching" condition so I figured I would go with a less-smog-crap-laden, earlier/more powerful motor rather than redoing my "small" 307.

But if a "new" 307 is comparable to a 350 or "whatever else fits," I guess sticking with her original setup makes the most sense. I'm not looking to race her, but I'd love to have enough classic V8 power on tap to keep me from wishing I'd gone for something "bigger" when I had the chance...

f-85

Go with something bigger! Its a wagon it needs some Torque! I thought i would never say this, but a 403 would be a good choice!

oldcutlass

An SBO 350 would probably be the most economical swap, for transportation and would outperform the 307 right out of the box and still provide good gas mileage. It's a direct replacement and you can reuse the radiator and accessories that are currently on your engine. Your transmission will bolt right up!

You could probably get away with it for about $3-3500 total including labor!

joe_padavano

I'll have to say that the non-roller 307 in my 84 is adequate for a transportation appliance and is noticeably more powerful (well, at least according to my butt dyno ) than the roller cam 307 in my 86 (and the 86 motor has far fewer miles on it). I'll also say that the 84 will get a 455 as soon as I can build the 200-4R to survive.

As far as your 89 is concerned, the first consideration is do you need to have it emissions tested? If so, any deviation from stock is a risk of failure. It is certainly possible to swap in a 350 or 403 (or even a 455) and squeak it past an emissions test (both tailpipe and visual) but understand the risk.

If testing is not a concern, then the 350 or 403 swap is a good choice, but you WILL need to beef the 200-4R to survive. You will also either need to play with the CCC carb and distributor to work on the larger motor or you will need to convert to non-computerized carb and distributor. Eliminating the computer has ripple effects like the need to do some rewiring to get the A/C compressor to engage.

J-(Chicago)

You could find a REALLY nice one of those wagons for 3k. I wouldn't bother repairing one in fair condition unless i did all the work myself. Not worth the labor cost.