Radiator fluid opinions
#1
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Big Lake,MN..Spent most of my life in Boston
Posts: 714
Radiator fluid opinions
I had to remove my rad from my 64- 88 to replace the fan. Any thoughts on the type of anti-freeze and associated fluids I should put in rad??
I live in MN and temps run -20 to 104 degrees during a typical year. The car is stored in a unheated garage. Rad is only two years old and I was using a 50/50 mix. This is the perfect time to use something different (better).
Thanks for any ideas.
I live in MN and temps run -20 to 104 degrees during a typical year. The car is stored in a unheated garage. Rad is only two years old and I was using a 50/50 mix. This is the perfect time to use something different (better).
Thanks for any ideas.
#4
X2 on the 50/50 mix of a high quality coolant. I buy the premixed. You shouldn’t use regular tap water when diluting, thus it’s easier to buy the premixed. Flush her out real good sense the systems open. Pay close attention to the block and heater core. Remove the core hoses and force the clean water through it. That’s where the crud builds up and the water pump sometimes doesn’t have enough umph to get it out when flushing. It can’t hurt to dump in some additive either upon refill for added pump lube and rust inhibitor, especially for a car that sits.
Before refilling do your best to remove all the flush water. Remove the lower hose or whatever it takes to get all the water out. Once the systems filled, check the specific gravity with a coolant hydrometer just to double check its 50/50 (-34*F).
Before refilling do your best to remove all the flush water. Remove the lower hose or whatever it takes to get all the water out. Once the systems filled, check the specific gravity with a coolant hydrometer just to double check its 50/50 (-34*F).
#6
#7
This is a gimmick. Save your money. Yes, it might increase the "wettability" of water, but water does a pretty good job of wetting things all by itself.
It goes back to the same answer every time. What did the manufacturer call for? Put in a good quality coolant with distilled water, change it as often as the manufacturer says, and you'll be fine.
It goes back to the same answer every time. What did the manufacturer call for? Put in a good quality coolant with distilled water, change it as often as the manufacturer says, and you'll be fine.
#8
Me neither!
Amen to that!
It is very interesting to know that at Otterzone and Oreillys in my area, they ONLY sell the premixed stuff!
To get the straight coolant, I have to go to Walmart. What is worse is that it is less per jug, too!!
It is very interesting to know that at Otterzone and Oreillys in my area, they ONLY sell the premixed stuff!
To get the straight coolant, I have to go to Walmart. What is worse is that it is less per jug, too!!
#9
#10
#11
#12
Of course. More profit selling water than there is selling glycol. I've noticed a lot of big-name antifreeze brands are leaning more and more toward premixed too.
So, since yez iz in Wallyworld alreddy, yez can git yer straight EG anitfreeze and then toddle over to groc'rys and buy yez a few gallons of distilled water to mix widdit.
Or just do like I do and sneak a gallon of demineralized water out of the plant every so often
#13
Some more suggestions
I had to remove my rad from my 64- 88 to replace the fan. Any thoughts on the type of anti-freeze and associated fluids I should put in rad??
I live in MN and temps run -20 to 104 degrees during a typical year. The car is stored in a unheated garage. Rad is only two years old and I was using a 50/50 mix. This is the perfect time to use something different (better).
Thanks for any ideas.
I live in MN and temps run -20 to 104 degrees during a typical year. The car is stored in a unheated garage. Rad is only two years old and I was using a 50/50 mix. This is the perfect time to use something different (better).
Thanks for any ideas.
#15
#16
#17
This is a gimmick. Save your money. Yes, it might increase the "wettability" of water, but water does a pretty good job of wetting things all by itself.
It goes back to the same answer every time. What did the manufacturer call for? Put in a good quality coolant with distilled water, change it as often as the manufacturer says, and you'll be fine.
It goes back to the same answer every time. What did the manufacturer call for? Put in a good quality coolant with distilled water, change it as often as the manufacturer says, and you'll be fine.
#18
While on acidity, it's good to check the acidity level of the antifreeze/coolant. All are not created equal. Some are acidic enough to make a low voltage battery. This becomes particularly important if your vehicle has any aluminum components. My tests indicate that Peak is one of the lower acidic ones that are widely available.
Faced with a GM tech bulletin, Peak may have reformulated their coolant. It's never been readily available here so I've never used it and have no experience with it.
#19
- Eric
#21
I'm not saying it won't make an iota of improvement to use it. What I AM saying is that it won't hurt your engine at all not to use it, and you won't be spending the money to buy it.
Last edited by jaunty75; September 3rd, 2012 at 02:55 PM.
#22
It's not "largely" distilled, it IS distilled!
But I've found that that water often has dust in it as it sticks to the wet coils and falls into the reservoir as the water drips off. It might be a good idea to try to filter it.
But I've found that that water often has dust in it as it sticks to the wet coils and falls into the reservoir as the water drips off. It might be a good idea to try to filter it.
#23
But you're making the assumption that this is a good thing. It's just as bad for your engine to run too cool as it is to run too hot. Stick with what the manufacturer recommends, and you can't go wrong. No manufacturer ever recommended "water wetter."
I'm not saying it won't make an iota of improvement to use it. What I AM saying is that it won't hurt your engine at all not to use it, and you won't be spending the money to buy it.
I'm not saying it won't make an iota of improvement to use it. What I AM saying is that it won't hurt your engine at all not to use it, and you won't be spending the money to buy it.
The manufacturers all recommended different products over the years, granted this one was not around. We can disagree, my system likes it. Your right it's my money.
#24
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Big Lake,MN..Spent most of my life in Boston
Posts: 714
All great ideas. I do plan on dumping any fluid left in the heater hoses. I will be replacing both hoses on rad.
I will add a lubricant along with a basic 50/50 mix. The heater hoses were replaced two years ago ( in fact every hose on the car was replaced two years ago) Hate to say it but the heater core is original..$%^ I DID IT!!! It will blow soon. I wonder if the years of crud is keeping the heater core in one piece.
I have used the 'water wetter' but only before long trips.
I appreciate all the tips.
I will add a lubricant along with a basic 50/50 mix. The heater hoses were replaced two years ago ( in fact every hose on the car was replaced two years ago) Hate to say it but the heater core is original..$%^ I DID IT!!! It will blow soon. I wonder if the years of crud is keeping the heater core in one piece.
I have used the 'water wetter' but only before long trips.
I appreciate all the tips.
#25
Heat is horsepower.
Running under 200 degrees reduces your horsepower a few percent.
According to my favorite engineer,the late Smokey Yunick.
Love his book..building Horsepower...a great read.
Running under 200 degrees reduces your horsepower a few percent.
According to my favorite engineer,the late Smokey Yunick.
Love his book..building Horsepower...a great read.
#26
Coolant already contains lube so you do not need any more. The only time I add it is when I go past 4 years without changing it. It usually contains extra corrosion inhibitors so it buys me another year or two without changing.
My original 156k mile heater core looked cherry when I replaced it. I only had to change it because some numbnut crushed the nipples with the clamps.
The new cores are 1/3 the weight of the old ones. Guess how long those will last??
My original 156k mile heater core looked cherry when I replaced it. I only had to change it because some numbnut crushed the nipples with the clamps.
The new cores are 1/3 the weight of the old ones. Guess how long those will last??
#27
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Big Lake,MN..Spent most of my life in Boston
Posts: 714
I can only imagine how long a reproduction heater coil will last. The bottom line is to do things right the first time. I have the radiator and hoses off and want to do it right.
Thanks
Thanks
#28
Coca cola made a huge marketing blunder when it slipped out that their "Dansani" bottled water was simply tap water from south east London that had been filtered again after quite likely passing through plenty of human kidneys first.
And it wasn't any purer than tap water either.
Roger.
#29
Or soda, we have been buying bottled water for years, in the UK tap water is purer than the bottled stuff.
Coca cola made a huge marketing blunder when it slipped out that their "Dansani" bottled water was simply tap water from south east London that had been filtered again after quite likely passing through plenty of human kidneys first.
And it wasn't any purer than tap water either..
Coca cola made a huge marketing blunder when it slipped out that their "Dansani" bottled water was simply tap water from south east London that had been filtered again after quite likely passing through plenty of human kidneys first.
And it wasn't any purer than tap water either..
Around here, a couple of years ago, there was a ballot item regarding whether the local water authority should be allowed to sell a certain number of million gallons if water a year to the Poland Spring water company (it was rejected).
"Poland Spring" bottled water, in essence [pun intended], comes right out of our taps, and yet people here insist on buying bottled water (often Poland Spring) at the supermarket.
It's mind-bending.
- Eric
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