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lifter knock after 10 years of sitting???

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Old July 13th, 2011, 08:21 PM
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lifter knock after 10 years of sitting???

Ok i started a 1962 olds 98 up today after 10 years plus of it sitting in the garage... it started fine and when if fired up i could hear a knock... now it sounds like a loose lifter but i was woundering if its because the oil didnt make it up there yet or if the lifters can loosen up over time from sitting... i know for sure its a lifter... cant forget a sound like that... i only ran the car for about 1 min since i need to replace the pump plunger boot.. thanks for any tips...i plan on working on the car late tommorow again if i can find a carb rebuild kit arround where i live...oh yea the lifter thats knocking is the closest to the passager side bank... if that helps any?

Last edited by fasteddi; July 13th, 2011 at 08:23 PM. Reason: added model
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Old July 13th, 2011, 08:39 PM
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Maybe a stupid question but did it knock 10 years ago? Could be old oil has clogged that lifter. You could try to run it with a flush or marvel mystery oil to try and free it up. Or you could pull a valve cover since it sounds like you know what bank to look in and scope it out. On the gen. 1 olds motors the lifters are not adjustable, so some possible fixes as described in my 55 service manual are:

a. Rev engine to a high speed- if a foreign particle is restricting operation, this method sometimes proves successful in dislodging the particle.
b. Hit the rocker arm above the push rod several medium blows with a hammer while the engine is idling. This has proven successful for dislodging a foreign particle which is preventing the ball from seating properly.

There is a c. and d., but they are very long winded. I will spare you from the extra complication unless it comes down to it. Just PM me if you need more info
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Old July 13th, 2011, 08:44 PM
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Don't worry about it. They all do that.

I don't think I've ever started up a long-dead motor and not had a lifter tap for a while.

Heck, you only ran it for 60 seconds!

Drive it around for a while, and I bet once it gets hot, it goes away.

- Eric
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Old July 14th, 2011, 04:34 AM
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Did you change the oil before you started it? If not, I would put fresh oil in it before you run it too much.
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Old July 14th, 2011, 04:45 AM
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b. Hit the rocker arm above the push rod several medium blows with a hammer while the engine is idling. This has proven successful for dislodging a foreign particle which is preventing the ball from seating properly.




Ive done that a couple times. I used a large rubber mallet. Worked one time, one time it didnt.
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Old July 14th, 2011, 05:37 AM
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Originally Posted by MDchanic
Don't worry about it. They all do that.

Drive it around for a while, and I bet once it gets hot, it goes away.

- Eric
I fired up my cutlass for the first time in a couple years last year and it had a nasty ticking from underneath the valve cover. A really good oil change and making sure it got up to temperature cured the problem almost instantly.
-Tony
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Old July 14th, 2011, 06:25 AM
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ok thanks everyone.. i did change the oil before i started it.from what i know this car Did Not tick when it last ran.. i only ran if for 1 minuet becuse of the leaking gas on the ccarb.... pump plunger boot... anyways if i can find a carb rebuild kit today.. ill get it going and let everyone know how it went... thanks!!!!

Last edited by fasteddi; July 14th, 2011 at 06:26 AM. Reason: added stuff
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Old July 14th, 2011, 07:21 AM
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On that carb- when you disassemble it pay CLOSE attention to the gaskets that came out of it, and match the new gaskets in the kit to what was in it. 4GC will do hateful and hard-to-troubleshoot things if the wrong gaskets for the application are installed. There should be a triangular aluminum tag on one of the air horn screws that will tell you the carb number to order the kit.

Not unusual for a 394 to have some lifter or rocker shaft noise. A couple of oil changes and maybe some Rislone or Mystery Oil will help. You can try the old school trick of substituting a quart of trans fluid for a quart of oil- the trans fluid is a thin, fine oil that can get into places standard motor oils can't and will often dislodge foreign material in a lifter.
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Old July 14th, 2011, 07:26 AM
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DON'T 'hit it with a hammer while the engine is idling', unless you'd like to chance a bent valve!!
Let it warm-up, as it'll probably go away!
Good luck on a carb kit - they're getting scarce - buy 2 if you find one!
I just found one with about 1/2 inch of dust for a '65 442! $35!
If it's leaking out the boot, the acc. pump probably dried out. Might get soft again, now that it's got gas on it!
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Old July 14th, 2011, 07:55 AM
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well i went over to play with the car today...it stopped leaking out of the boot and stopped ticking..but now its leaking out of the main gas line that enters the carb...is there suppose to be a rubber ring in there because i sure dont see one....i did find a rebuild kit from napa for that carb thankfully!!

Last edited by fasteddi; July 14th, 2011 at 07:56 AM. Reason: addition
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Old July 14th, 2011, 08:45 AM
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No o-ring I'm aware of, but a common place for cross-threaded and stripped threads!
Try tightening it, but if it doesn't stop, take it apart and see what you've got.
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Old July 14th, 2011, 11:16 AM
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what about putting some teflon tape on the threads very carfully??? or will that be worse for the car?>
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