To paint or keep original.
May 4th, 2023, 01:51 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2022
Posts: 71
To paint or keep original.
I love my 83. Think the weather here in hawaii makes the car run different. So I'll tune it up. But have a question. So my 83s paint is in decent shape. Paint is showing signs of age, but still has the shine. Debating to keep it like that or repaint. I plan to keep my ride stock as much as possible. I'll share Pics tomorrow. I'll take her out for a photo shoot
May 4th, 2023, 02:28 AM
#2
Lansing built
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Grand Ledge, MI
Posts: 3,228
Yes the mid eighties factory paint jobs were not so great with time. My dads 84 Caprice was very thin on the deck lid from new. Paint jobs are not cheap and I would assume in Hawaii it's even worse. Special request on the photo shoot. Sunset in the back ground with the parking lamps on. Nothing better for my sweet tooth for my two favorite things, Olds and Hawaii!
Pat
Pat
May 4th, 2023, 02:35 AM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2022
Posts: 71
Yes the mid eighties factory paint jobs were not so great with time. My dads 84 Caprice was very thin on the deck lid from new. Paint jobs are not cheap and I would assume in Hawaii it's even worse. Special request on the photo shoot. Sunset in the back ground with the parking lamps on. Nothing better for my sweet tooth for my two favorite things, Olds and Hawaii!
Pat
Pat
May 4th, 2023, 09:41 AM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,931
AFAIK, all 83 H/Os were lacquer paint. Looks pretty, has its own patina, easy to correct, and when polished up, looks sharp.
That said, the base/clear is the only way to go if you are going to invest in a new paint job. Better shine and holds up better over time, IMO. This is assuming the surface preparation and product application are properly done. Your choice, obviously.
TIP: Before taking off any of the stripes where it meets the bottom silver paint, measure to the middle of the stripe and average the measurements so you can get a clean paint break measurement from the bottom body break line. The factory did a very crappy job in taping off the black to apply the silver, but did a good job putting the stripes on to cover it. The factory did all the paintwork and striping to the body proper. C&C just added the rest of the major junk like spoiler, air dam and hood scoop to the outside of the car. Shifter inside, and maybe air shocks under the car if that option was ordered. The bottom stripe was wide enough to cover most of the wavy mask lines. Masking quality for the paint was not in a straight line most of the time. You'll see it if you ever repaint it and take the stripes off. And take lots of pics of the original with as many measurement pics of the paint lines as possible. You'll forget the details later down the road if you don't.
When I got my 84 repainted, the painter used a 3/4" (I think, don't quote me on this) wide masking tape from the body break line between the wheel wells. Then ran another masking tape line butted on top of it to make two tape lines, then he removed the bottom tape to give it the proper gap for painting the bottom section. He used the same tape sequence around the wheel wells too from the edge so as to get the right clearances for that. The front and rearmost fenders would effectively split the marker lamp holes right across the center. When I applied the decals, everything lined right up nicely. Anyway, measure the silver to the bottom of your stripes, then split the width of the stripe and add it to your silver. If that makes sense. This way, the paint line should be right in the center of the stripe. If your paint guy is good at two-toning, he'll know what to do.
That said, the base/clear is the only way to go if you are going to invest in a new paint job. Better shine and holds up better over time, IMO. This is assuming the surface preparation and product application are properly done. Your choice, obviously.
TIP: Before taking off any of the stripes where it meets the bottom silver paint, measure to the middle of the stripe and average the measurements so you can get a clean paint break measurement from the bottom body break line. The factory did a very crappy job in taping off the black to apply the silver, but did a good job putting the stripes on to cover it. The factory did all the paintwork and striping to the body proper. C&C just added the rest of the major junk like spoiler, air dam and hood scoop to the outside of the car. Shifter inside, and maybe air shocks under the car if that option was ordered. The bottom stripe was wide enough to cover most of the wavy mask lines. Masking quality for the paint was not in a straight line most of the time. You'll see it if you ever repaint it and take the stripes off. And take lots of pics of the original with as many measurement pics of the paint lines as possible. You'll forget the details later down the road if you don't.
When I got my 84 repainted, the painter used a 3/4" (I think, don't quote me on this) wide masking tape from the body break line between the wheel wells. Then ran another masking tape line butted on top of it to make two tape lines, then he removed the bottom tape to give it the proper gap for painting the bottom section. He used the same tape sequence around the wheel wells too from the edge so as to get the right clearances for that. The front and rearmost fenders would effectively split the marker lamp holes right across the center. When I applied the decals, everything lined right up nicely. Anyway, measure the silver to the bottom of your stripes, then split the width of the stripe and add it to your silver. If that makes sense. This way, the paint line should be right in the center of the stripe. If your paint guy is good at two-toning, he'll know what to do.
May 4th, 2023, 12:31 PM
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2022
Posts: 71
AFAIK, all 83 H/Os were lacquer paint. Looks pretty, has its own patina, easy to correct, and when polished up, looks sharp.
That said, the base/clear is the only way to go if you are going to invest in a new paint job. Better shine and holds up better over time, IMO. This is assuming the surface preparation and product application are properly done. Your choice, obviously.
TIP: Before taking off any of the stripes where it meets the bottom silver paint, measure to the middle of the stripe and average the measurements so you can get a clean paint break measurement from the bottom body break line. The factory did a very crappy job in taping off the black to apply the silver, but did a good job putting the stripes on to cover it. The factory did all the paintwork and striping to the body proper. C&C just added the rest of the major junk like spoiler, air dam and hood scoop to the outside of the car. Shifter inside, and maybe air shocks under the car if that option was ordered. The bottom stripe was wide enough to cover most of the wavy mask lines. Masking quality for the paint was not in a straight line most of the time. You'll see it if you ever repaint it and take the stripes off. And take lots of pics of the original with as many measurement pics of the paint lines as possible. You'll forget the details later down the road if you don't.
When I got my 84 repainted, the painter used a 3/4" (I think, don't quote me on this) wide masking tape from the body break line between the wheel wells. Then ran another masking tape line butted on top of it to make two tape lines, then he removed the bottom tape to give it the proper gap for painting the bottom section. He used the same tape sequence around the wheel wells too from the edge so as to get the right clearances for that. The front and rearmost fenders would effectively split the marker lamp holes right across the center. When I applied the decals, everything lined right up nicely. Anyway, measure the silver to the bottom of your stripes, then split the width of the stripe and add it to your silver. If that makes sense. This way, the paint line should be right in the center of the stripe. If your paint guy is good at two-toning, he'll know what to do.
That said, the base/clear is the only way to go if you are going to invest in a new paint job. Better shine and holds up better over time, IMO. This is assuming the surface preparation and product application are properly done. Your choice, obviously.
TIP: Before taking off any of the stripes where it meets the bottom silver paint, measure to the middle of the stripe and average the measurements so you can get a clean paint break measurement from the bottom body break line. The factory did a very crappy job in taping off the black to apply the silver, but did a good job putting the stripes on to cover it. The factory did all the paintwork and striping to the body proper. C&C just added the rest of the major junk like spoiler, air dam and hood scoop to the outside of the car. Shifter inside, and maybe air shocks under the car if that option was ordered. The bottom stripe was wide enough to cover most of the wavy mask lines. Masking quality for the paint was not in a straight line most of the time. You'll see it if you ever repaint it and take the stripes off. And take lots of pics of the original with as many measurement pics of the paint lines as possible. You'll forget the details later down the road if you don't.
When I got my 84 repainted, the painter used a 3/4" (I think, don't quote me on this) wide masking tape from the body break line between the wheel wells. Then ran another masking tape line butted on top of it to make two tape lines, then he removed the bottom tape to give it the proper gap for painting the bottom section. He used the same tape sequence around the wheel wells too from the edge so as to get the right clearances for that. The front and rearmost fenders would effectively split the marker lamp holes right across the center. When I applied the decals, everything lined right up nicely. Anyway, measure the silver to the bottom of your stripes, then split the width of the stripe and add it to your silver. If that makes sense. This way, the paint line should be right in the center of the stripe. If your paint guy is good at two-toning, he'll know what to do.
have a great day ohana
August 4th, 2023, 02:39 AM
#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2022
Posts: 71
August 6th, 2023, 06:35 PM
#13
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2022
Posts: 71
August 6th, 2023, 08:20 PM
#15
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2022
Posts: 71
August 7th, 2023, 10:28 AM
#16
Rocket Renegade!
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Vancouver Island
Posts: 4,464
August 7th, 2023, 07:08 PM
#17
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2022
Posts: 71
August 8th, 2023, 02:31 PM
#19
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2022
Posts: 71
that's ok. I'll let the professionals fix it. I plan to keep it forever so mighsoas well make it nice. Maybe someday I'll repaint the whole car.
August 8th, 2023, 02:34 PM
#20
Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Edmond, OK
Posts: 15,993
Are you going to ship your Oldsmobile to the continental US and have the fender fixed? I thought you said there weren't any body shops in Hawaii that were interested in doing it?
August 8th, 2023, 02:36 PM
#21
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2022
Posts: 71
August 8th, 2023, 03:57 PM
#23
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2022
Posts: 71
August 8th, 2023, 05:22 PM
#24
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Colorado - Front Range
Posts: 2,377
Now, waxing I have issues with, LOL! 
August 9th, 2023, 06:32 PM
#25
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2023
Posts: 155
That’s a beautiful car you have! It had me drooling at age 15 when it came out. I can’t tell how deep the scratches are but I have a 72 with 30 year old black paint. It has its character marks but I decided to try a wax made for black paint. The wax itself is black. I don’t remember the brand but there seem to be at least a few out there. It did seem to help tone down some of the age showing in the paint and helped a bit with fine scratches. If yours is more like an abrasion from a limb it could possibly help. These waxes may all be a gimmick but for a few bucks if it helps even a little it may be worth a shot.
August 10th, 2023, 02:27 AM
#26
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2022
Posts: 71
That’s a beautiful car you have! It had me drooling at age 15 when it came out. I can’t tell how deep the scratches are but I have a 72 with 30 year old black paint. It has its character marks but I decided to try a wax made for black paint. The wax itself is black. I don’t remember the brand but there seem to be at least a few out there. It did seem to help tone down some of the age showing in the paint and helped a bit with fine scratches. If yours is more like an abrasion from a limb it could possibly help. These waxes may all be a gimmick but for a few bucks if it helps even a little it may be worth a shot.
August 10th, 2023, 09:25 AM
#28
Rocket Renegade!
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Vancouver Island
Posts: 4,464
August 10th, 2023, 07:50 PM
#29
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Evansville, IN
Posts: 10,372
This. I've got a mismatched paint job on my Chevy from a repair. I was punished at a car show 18 years ago by saying I was in the (now defunct) all original category. I think the car got 56 out of 100 points, including 0 of 5 for trunk equipment on a car that still has the inner tube piece holding the tire iron from shaking against the bumper jack beam. My friend opined maybe it would have been better to leave the car wrecked for that show. I am glad I couldn't find the judge after the awards; I would've been tempted to apply a Greene County Beatdown on him.
August 11th, 2023, 02:44 AM
#30
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2022
Posts: 71
no. They said i need to see a restoration shop. If they fix the dent they couldn't match the rest since the cars paint is checking away. I'll leave it alone. Maybe one day I'll repaint the car with today's newer paint. I don't plan on selling it so I'll b happy. Maybe the pointless can get most of the wrinkle out. Thanks guys for all your support
January 14th, 2024, 09:31 PM
#31
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2022
Posts: 71
Yes the mid eighties factory paint jobs were not so great with time. My dads 84 Caprice was very thin on the deck lid from new. Paint jobs are not cheap and I would assume in Hawaii it's even worse. Special request on the photo shoot. Sunset in the back ground with the parking lamps on. Nothing better for my sweet tooth for my two favorite things, Olds and Hawaii!
Pat
Pat
January 16th, 2024, 02:18 AM
#34
Lansing built
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Grand Ledge, MI
Posts: 3,228
FYI that paint still looks great in my opinion. I have a black 91 Z34 that has paint on the top surfaces that getting weak. What color are the seats? Maple or Sand. Mahalo for the pics again!
Pat
Pat
January 16th, 2024, 02:46 PM
#36
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Brazil Indiana
Posts: 11,509
Update on my wifes car. It is going to have to stay original paint because we spent all our money on another house we will be renting out. I will be doing a really big cleanup and servicing on it and get it reliable for the road again. We will be driving it on the last three days of Power Tour.
January 16th, 2024, 11:18 PM
#37
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2022
Posts: 71
Update on my wifes car. It is going to have to stay original paint because we spent all our money on another house we will be renting out. I will be doing a really big cleanup and servicing on it and get it reliable for the road again. We will be driving it on the last three days of Power Tour.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
gearheads78
General Discussion
24
March 11th, 2010 08:49 PM
