1964 jetstar 1 (jetmax1)
#1
1964 jetstar 1 (jetmax1)
Picked up a very straight very original 64 jetstar 1. After some research and looking at the numbers I've decided that restoring the car just isn't going to be in the cards for me. Instead I'm going a much different route. The starfire v8 was missing when I got the car. All that was left was one cylinder head and the intake and accessories in the trunk. So I bought an 03 2500hd silverado and pulled the lb7 duramax engine. Current plan is to build a new front end utilizing late model metric outers to retain the 5x5 pattern and use aftermarket stock car components. (tube a arms, coil overs etc.) Retaining the factory 9.25 rear end for obvious reasons and using a 4l80e. Car will be getting a full cage but retaining most of the factory interior as it is just too good to give up.
#3
Exhaust
Yeah, I second the "ambitious" emotion! I wish you all the luck in the world, 916. Actually, bringing one of these back to life is probably a tad easier as a resto-mod, as you're doing, than an "jenu-wine" factory-authentic resto -- although you'll need some expertise and elbow grease on a project to the extent you're doing. But original parts for these things make hen's teeth look plentiful...
You mentioned in the resonators thread that your Jetstar I has a basically intact exhaust system. If it is, you'd be doing us '64 fans a great service to take pictures, confirm the dimensions of all the resonators, and document as much as you can. (A complete set of pics would be especially great.) If you have any trouble posting pic's, I will help. Just let me know. Thanks for the offer....!
You mentioned in the resonators thread that your Jetstar I has a basically intact exhaust system. If it is, you'd be doing us '64 fans a great service to take pictures, confirm the dimensions of all the resonators, and document as much as you can. (A complete set of pics would be especially great.) If you have any trouble posting pic's, I will help. Just let me know. Thanks for the offer....!
Last edited by Bee-Oh-Pee; February 21st, 2021 at 10:20 AM.
#4
Yeah I spent a good deal of time looking into parts availability and cost and it just doesn't add up. It was definitely close. I've done quite a bit of suspension work and I'm a fabricator by trade so I'm pretty confident I can get it dialed. It won't be as easy as a race car because I plan to retain all the original interior other than the console because of tunnel modifications necessary. I had listed all the leftovers on the classified section but it got removed because forum rules require prices.
#5
Ended up buying a kit from POL meant for putting a mustang 2 front suspension setup under a 55-59 chevy pickup. This retained the 5x5 lug pattern, kept a comparable track width and was rated for a big block in a chevy pickup. All I had to do was design the frame rails so they would fit the original frame nicely, accept the supplied crossmember width easily and then meet the front clip to accept the factory bumper brackets and come really close to using the factory front body mounts. I ended up whipping together some custom front mount brackets but they will prob get re done. The power rack and pinion sits a bit high over the crossmember so I'm currently fighting the overall height of the engine/trans trying to get it as low as possibly and as far back as i can. So far so good.
Last edited by Jetstar_916; November 30th, 2021 at 09:24 PM. Reason: details left out
#6
Lost the smallest bit of oil capacity to gain 1.25'' of room to lower the engine. Relocated the steering rack brackets down 1'' and lowered the control arm mounts accordingly. Also didn't realize that the drama engine had offset engine mounts so I built some relocation plates similar to the types used on ls swaps
#16
Thanks guys, hopefully I can get it a little closer in the beginning of the year. Still a lot of expensive parts to buy. I have the engine and trans but the trans needs about 2k worth of torque converter and valve body. I already have the wiring harness done but plumbing and sorting out the factory vacuum actuated accessories will be fun haha. Lots to do but I'm having fun still. Really appreciate the kind words. I'll make an effort to keep this updated.
#17
Awesome work, and a very cool project... Did you have any problems with the oil pan cracking as it cooled down from welding?
Last edited by mattking; December 2nd, 2021 at 04:58 AM. Reason: spelling
#18
None whatsoever, it actually went fairly easily. I wasn't worried about trying it because I have another so i just grabbed the first filler rod out of my cart and laid into it. Honestly couldn't even tell you what alloy I used.
#19
Couple updates. Been very busy for a while but trying to get stuff done here and there.
Engine mounts finally mocked up and started welding
Mustang 2 type front suspension hung
Few pics of the converter I had built to handle the torque.
Beautiful billet front cover
Engine mounts finally mocked up and started welding
Mustang 2 type front suspension hung
Few pics of the converter I had built to handle the torque.
Beautiful billet front cover
#21
Yeah, I second the "ambitious" emotion! I wish you all the luck in the world, 916. Actually, bringing one of these back to life is probably a tad easier as a resto-mod, as you're doing, than an "jenu-wine" factory-authentic resto -- although you'll need some expertise and elbow grease on a project to the extent you're doing. But original parts for these things make hen's teeth look plentiful...
You mentioned in the resonators thread that your Jetstar I has a basically intact exhaust system. If it is, you'd be doing us '64 fans a great service to take pictures, confirm the dimensions of all the resonators, and document as much as you can. (A complete set of pics would be especially great.) If you have any trouble posting pic's, I will help. Just let me know. Thanks for the offer....!
You mentioned in the resonators thread that your Jetstar I has a basically intact exhaust system. If it is, you'd be doing us '64 fans a great service to take pictures, confirm the dimensions of all the resonators, and document as much as you can. (A complete set of pics would be especially great.) If you have any trouble posting pic's, I will help. Just let me know. Thanks for the offer....!
My dad recently gave me his '64 Jetstar 1. It is going to be a big project to say the least. However it does have the original 394 and pretty much everything else. The motor is not locked up and last ran back in '02 (according to my dad) but was torn down for a rebuild and was never put back together. All of the parts are in the trunk so it can be put back together. Would going the route of restomod be best route to go? I am not having much lucky finding parts for it. One other question is the bolt pattern for the wheel. For this model, are they 5x5? I apologize in advanced, I am new to all of this so any help would be much appreciated.
#22
My dad recently gave me his '64 Jetstar 1. It is going to be a big project to say the least. However it does have the original 394 and pretty much everything else. The motor is not locked up and last ran back in '02 (according to my dad) but was torn down for a rebuild and was never put back together. All of the parts are in the trunk so it can be put back together. Would going the route of restomod be best route to go? I am not having much lucky finding parts for it. One other question is the bolt pattern for the wheel. For this model, are they 5x5? I apologize in advanced, I am new to all of this so any help would be much appreciated.
I've seen too many guys tear into these cars with the idea of resto-modding them , and then discover that it takes deep pockets to do this.
They wind up abandoning the project, and sell it for scrap.
Parts can be had, but you have to know where to look.
Engine parts can be had through Egge Machine for example.
Egge Machine Company
Tell us what parts you need, and we will direct you to a source.
Yes, Jetstar I was 5x5 wheel bolt parrern.
Last edited by Charlie Jones; April 4th, 2023 at 06:39 PM.
#23
Yeah unless you have enough talent to build nearly every part you need this path would be the worst idea. I would've never gone this route if I had the original parts. I also am wanting a very specific type of car. It honestly doesn't matter what car I started with. I am building body mounts, crossmembers, and have cut a hole in the floor the size of an entire 4l80e transmission. Charlie is absolutely right, if you don't have the means, skill or absolute determination a larger undertaking like this will often lead to failure.
#25
thanks, work has been insane so I haven't gotten much done lately. Just piling up parts for now. Bought different wheels and tires and a full dry sump oiling system. Will post pics as soon as I get back to it.
#27
New shoes
18” US mags
285 rear fit well in factory wheel wells on a 9.5” wheel with 5.25” backspace
255 front on a 8” wheel with 4.5” backspace. (Custom front framerails)
New tires and wheels. U.S. mags u111 rambler with nitto nt 555 g2 front tires in 255/45r18 and nitto nt 555 r2 285/40r18 in the rear. This is at ride height
#28
Dry sump oiling baby!
Scored almost everything I need for the dry sump oiling So now that oil pan I built is unnecessary. Didn’t really gain much clearance over the crossmember but damn if it won’t look cool as hell.
#29
OP,
Great job!. If I had your skills, I might have done something similar, but I wound up leaving my ‘66’s almost stock.
Others here understand the skills of your engineering, cuts and welds better than me, but as a rank amateur, even I can see the quality.
When you get to the vacuum accessories, look for posts I’ve done in the past. These cars used vacuum a lot. 50 years later the parts availability the factory manuals from the 60’s assume just ain’t there. So you can get creative with making rubber pieces from mountain bike inner tubes and the like. As you get into the vacuum stuff, the heater/AC controls seem to hold up very well over the years. The power trunk release mechanisms can be found fairly easily & cheaply. The real fun is vacuum power door locks which were most often found in Caddy’s but manufactured by trico. The tricky part there is finding actuators that don’t leak.
Great work
Chris
Great job!. If I had your skills, I might have done something similar, but I wound up leaving my ‘66’s almost stock.
Others here understand the skills of your engineering, cuts and welds better than me, but as a rank amateur, even I can see the quality.
When you get to the vacuum accessories, look for posts I’ve done in the past. These cars used vacuum a lot. 50 years later the parts availability the factory manuals from the 60’s assume just ain’t there. So you can get creative with making rubber pieces from mountain bike inner tubes and the like. As you get into the vacuum stuff, the heater/AC controls seem to hold up very well over the years. The power trunk release mechanisms can be found fairly easily & cheaply. The real fun is vacuum power door locks which were most often found in Caddy’s but manufactured by trico. The tricky part there is finding actuators that don’t leak.
Great work
Chris
#31
Good to know and thank you. The trunk release actually still works! All the original heater equip is missing and I plan to run a tube for the roll cage right through the spot where the heater box is anyway. Planning on running electric heaters front and rear just for defrost but here in northern ca I'll be okay without much heat. I don't think it has power door locks but I have looked into electric vac pumps due to the fact that my dry sump pump mounts in place of my vacuum pump. The diesel will have no useable vacuum.
#32
Pic dump
Finally tearing into the engine.
Designed a crossmember for the 4l80
Got the trans crossmember in and hate it. Will prob change it but it’s a good placeholder for now
Fit up the dry sump pan and found out I actually lost a little clearance… no turning back
Entire trans tunnel and most of the factory driveshaft tunnel will come out.
#33
Wow! Not sure how I missed this thread in the beginning, but I'm along for the ride now. Quite ambitious, and I love the work done so far. You have mad skills, and like you said earlier, being a fabricator by trade, you've got this!
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