70 cutlass supreme convertible my first frame off
#45
Prepped the other body mount.
Got a nice tight fit hopefully in the correct spot.
I am wondering since I need the entire trunk and floor pan if it makes sense to test fit/ mount the pieces to the new frame before welding in place.
Got a nice tight fit hopefully in the correct spot.
I am wondering since I need the entire trunk and floor pan if it makes sense to test fit/ mount the pieces to the new frame before welding in place.
#46
All the photos you are taking is awesome!
great work. Is this a 350 car?
Also is that where the factory speakers go behind the seat? thats cool was wondering where mine went.
QUOTE=tkcutlass;1255927]Had a little time this weekend waiting for the load lever to arrive.
Pulled the old speakers and the pump and pistons for the folding top.
[/QUOTE]
great work. Is this a 350 car?
Also is that where the factory speakers go behind the seat? thats cool was wondering where mine went.
QUOTE=tkcutlass;1255927]Had a little time this weekend waiting for the load lever to arrive.
Pulled the old speakers and the pump and pistons for the folding top.
[/QUOTE]
Last edited by JOHNNYOLDS442; June 26th, 2020 at 06:22 AM.
#47
Is this a 350 car?
The replacement was a 350 4 BBL
Certainly, the 6 x 9 holes work nicely for the speakers. I could not tell you if they were used for factory speakers (perhaps others can chime in)
I am re-evaluating whether to continue based on all the rot. floorboard, trunk pan aren't enough, there is rot up and along the sides in the back seats, ( not sure they make replacement panels for those areas)
#48
I think it's a cost vs time thing. I know the car has sentimental value. If you have a lot of time and skills, but not a lot of $, I'd say go for it. But...if you have the $ to buy another, in better shape, I'd do that. But that's me, you have to decide yourself. Rust is just the worst, most expensive, and time consuming stuff to repair.
#51
Spent a couple of weeks looking for a donor.
My buddy has a line on a car of my dreams just trying to get the guy to part with it is a task.
So in the meantime I am continuing the tear down.
Pulled the heater box and passenger side vent
Instructions say remove grill Need to pry the grill out from the edge little tabs hold it in place
Nice place for a mouse nest
Only minor damage to upper thin edging
strange made in Canada
My buddy has a line on a car of my dreams just trying to get the guy to part with it is a task.
So in the meantime I am continuing the tear down.
Pulled the heater box and passenger side vent
Instructions say remove grill Need to pry the grill out from the edge little tabs hold it in place
Nice place for a mouse nest
Only minor damage to upper thin edging
strange made in Canada
#52
wow
Wow, I know it has been said but was this car ever under water or in a flood, that really is some rust your dealing with, maybe it just looks worse than it is, but surfaces seem awfully rusty. You have gumption my friend I do hope that donor car comes your way... in the meantime nice work!! the mice were having a field day.
#53
Pulled the dash pad following these great instructions
I had two mystery screws, not just one like in the instructions with only one.
More rust more rust more rust.
Even the instruments are full pf rust
I had two mystery screws, not just one like in the instructions with only one.
More rust more rust more rust.
Even the instruments are full pf rust
#54
Thank you gremlins! I was going to post this picture to ask for advice on removing a stripped bolt on the intake.
I tried several tools last with no luck?
went to the garage and tried a new bolt extractor hmmm do i need to go smaller is it just spinning over the stripped bolt?
no finger tight spun right out strange
Magic The gremlins got it loose
I tried several tools last with no luck?
went to the garage and tried a new bolt extractor hmmm do i need to go smaller is it just spinning over the stripped bolt?
no finger tight spun right out strange
Magic The gremlins got it loose
#56
Finally got everything worked out so I can start sandblasting.
1 60 lb bag gone already to do maybe 10%
Hopefully, I can tweak a few settings.
been raining/misting certainly not ideal for blasting but maybe kept the dust down.
We will see tomorrow in the sun.
1 60 lb bag to get this far
1 60 lb bag gone already to do maybe 10%
Hopefully, I can tweak a few settings.
been raining/misting certainly not ideal for blasting but maybe kept the dust down.
We will see tomorrow in the sun.
1 60 lb bag to get this far
#65
Wow, wow and wow!! Is that car RUSTY!!! Just looked thru your entire thread so far and I have never tried to persuade someone not to restore a car but I am about to... Your frame from the Chevelle looks great, but everything else is unbelievable! Where was that car parked for years? It looks like the 72 parts car Cutlass that sat out in the mud on my property for 20 years. I used to store nice parts inside it thinking that it would be good dry storage until I found the good clean parts were getting ruined inside it. It was like putting parts in a with a indoor swimming pool- super high humidity and heat. I figured afterwards that the car in the sun got really hot inside like a steam bath. When I moved I dragged it out and found it looked like your 70. Anyway I am glad to see you haven't spent loads of cash buying parts as some people do. I would run on this one. You can always sell the buckets and console,etc. You now have a super nice frame you can use for a better body. Believe me I am not trying to be a know it all, but how many years and dollars do you plan to devote to a standard Cutlass convertible??? Run Forrest Run!!
#68
That is really good! You have made lots of progress Is the frame good on this one? Looks OK in pics. Did you make those supports that are spanning the doors? They look really neat- are they adjustable? Keep up the good work, I'm following ya!
#69
Looks like it has the original ball joints (unless someone riveted in new ones)
The door bars are adjustable and come with the rotisserie.
https://www.derekweaver.com/rodders-...to-rotisserie/
Thanks for reading
#71
Started to blast the body, got it pressure washed, and got 10 minutes into blasting and the weather turned brought the beast back in.
A buddy showed up and we got into the quarter panels with about 20lbs of bondo removed we can see what's in store.
The quarters probably should be replaced but we may see what we can do to repair them.
10lbs of bondo
another 10
A buddy showed up and we got into the quarter panels with about 20lbs of bondo removed we can see what's in store.
The quarters probably should be replaced but we may see what we can do to repair them.
10lbs of bondo
another 10
#75
Nice project!! Lots of work. I have to give you credit on taking on this project, but you will be very satisfied in the end!! Keep at it, looking great.
One question, you showed a product from Eastwood for inside frame coating. I am wondering how that worked for you. Is it perhaps a very thin product that soaks into the rust to protect it? I have come across a product call RP-342 that is very thin and seems to soak in, leaves a solid coating. I am considering using it instead of the Eastwood paint I purchased a few years ago.
How did that product seem to work for you on the internal rust in the frame??
Thanks!
Keep up the good work! Another one saved!!
One question, you showed a product from Eastwood for inside frame coating. I am wondering how that worked for you. Is it perhaps a very thin product that soaks into the rust to protect it? I have come across a product call RP-342 that is very thin and seems to soak in, leaves a solid coating. I am considering using it instead of the Eastwood paint I purchased a few years ago.
How did that product seem to work for you on the internal rust in the frame??
Thanks!
Keep up the good work! Another one saved!!
#76
Nice project!! Lots of work. I have to give you credit on taking on this project, but you will be very satisfied in the end!! Keep at it, looking great.
One question, you showed a product from Eastwood for inside frame coating. I am wondering how that worked for you. Is it perhaps a very thin product that soaks into the rust to protect it? I have come across a product call RP-342 that is very thin and seems to soak in, leaves a solid coating. I am considering using it instead of the Eastwood paint I purchased a few years ago.
How did that product seem to work for you on the internal rust in the frame??
Thanks!
Keep up the good work! Another one saved!!
One question, you showed a product from Eastwood for inside frame coating. I am wondering how that worked for you. Is it perhaps a very thin product that soaks into the rust to protect it? I have come across a product call RP-342 that is very thin and seems to soak in, leaves a solid coating. I am considering using it instead of the Eastwood paint I purchased a few years ago.
How did that product seem to work for you on the internal rust in the frame??
Thanks!
Keep up the good work! Another one saved!!
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-in...z-aerosol.html
Getting close to six months since I coated it, you prompted me to take a look. It appears I missed a couple of spots.