Just joined from Wisconsin
#81
Thanks Brad, I’m very happy with the way the suspension turned out. It did sound pretty good, but those old cherry bombs, were done, they were pretty rotten inside. Every time I started it, I had chunks of rusty metal and fiberglass flying out. New exhaust is in its future.
#82
Decided to go with an Erson Viking 100 cam. I did a lot of searching on here for ideas and recommendations. Cutlassefi kept coming up in my cam searches, and he seems pretty knowledgeable about it, so I decided to see what he thought. That was his recommendation, should have a bit of a lope, and better performance.
Other than that, I found that the starter is out of a 66-69 Lemans/Tempest, so there was no tapped hole in it for the support bracket, or the clutch return spring tab, there was a hole in it, but in the wrong place. I checked the box of parts that came with the car, and sure enough, there were the brackets. I was able to figure out exactly where the hole is located, took the starter apart, and got it drilled and tapped. Also ended up having both center exhaust manifold bolts break off. I had soaked them all for a while with kroil, but those center ones wouldn’t give up, those are the only two blind holes, felt like they were coming loose, not!! Tried welding a nut on the end, still wouldn’t budge. Ended up drilling them out. Been also cleaning/sandblasting/painting brackets, pulleys,misc. parts, and repaired the z-bar.
Trans. Cleaned up pretty good.
Z-bar pretty worn.
Other than that, I found that the starter is out of a 66-69 Lemans/Tempest, so there was no tapped hole in it for the support bracket, or the clutch return spring tab, there was a hole in it, but in the wrong place. I checked the box of parts that came with the car, and sure enough, there were the brackets. I was able to figure out exactly where the hole is located, took the starter apart, and got it drilled and tapped. Also ended up having both center exhaust manifold bolts break off. I had soaked them all for a while with kroil, but those center ones wouldn’t give up, those are the only two blind holes, felt like they were coming loose, not!! Tried welding a nut on the end, still wouldn’t budge. Ended up drilling them out. Been also cleaning/sandblasting/painting brackets, pulleys,misc. parts, and repaired the z-bar.
Trans. Cleaned up pretty good.
Z-bar pretty worn.
#83
Its important to get all those clutch linkages/Zbar back to round, the more slop you have in those the less actual push you get on the fork...nice job! Also check where the clutch rod attaches to the pedal arm for wear.
#84
I ended up taking a 5/16 nut, ground it down thinner, and drilled the threads out so it was the proper size, ground the z-bar flat and welded the nut to the z-bar. Not the prettiest weld, but it will work.
#86
I removed the right front fender well for better access to the fan/heater box, and the evap case, and welded up a crack that was on the front of it. Decided to push her outside onto the driveway, since it’s been so nice out, and pressure washed the engine compartment. Yesterday I removed the firewall heater/fan box, and the evap case. Had to take the fender off in the process. Lots of Kroil, and working bolts back and forth to get it off. Only broke one bolt. Heater box doesn’t look too good, it has holes rusted through it, and the door. I’ll probably have to look for a good one. Anyone know what a reasonable price for one is? Also, I’d like to get the original a/c system working again. I think I should probably have the evaporator core, poa valve, expansion valve checked and gone through. Is this something that needs to be sent out to get done? Any recommendations?
Going to work on getting the mouse nest and crap cleaned out next, then on to the heater core.
Going to work on getting the mouse nest and crap cleaned out next, then on to the heater core.
#89
Got the lower part of the cowl repaired, then pulled out the heater box. Took that apart, cleaned, painted, replaced gaskets, seals and the heater core. Started cleaning the area on the firewall where the heater box mounts, and it was rotted more than I thought. So, I cut the bad material. And replaced with new.
#90
Nice work, I m surprised to see that you are finding this kind of rot on the car. My Turnpike Cruiser was a Connecticut car and didn't have the hidden areas of rot you are dealing with. But my trunk floor and floor pans, rockers and quarters had rot and a bit on the cowl as you are finding. Front and rear glass channels and trunk seal channel which is pretty typical. When you can put the welder away it will be a good feeling!
#91
Thanks! I think that the rodents nesting in there for however many years, had something to do with the firewall, and the outside heater box being as bad as they are. I know that the drivers floor pan is bad too, but that will be down the road a little. I guess the good thing is, is that I’m running out of places to find rot!
#95
Might want to check the vacuum motor there on the AC box, if bad replace it before all goes back in. On my wagon that long spring was broken had to come up with a replacement... Everything still looking good there!
#96
The vacuum motor seems to work. Removed the core support and related parts to clean and paint. I‘ve gone this far, might as well. I don’t know why I was surprised, but the core support is rotted where it mounts to the frame. I’m going to start those repairs today.
#97
The rot at the mount area on the core support is so typical, all my projects needed repair here and I had to source 1 or two radiator supports because the rot was major elsewhere.
#98
Well, looking closer at the core support, I noticed that it is bent and twisted. That’s why the right front never looked quite right to me.I attempted to straighten it, and decided that it would have to be taken apart, each piece straightened, then welded back together. Then there’s still no guarantee that it’s straight.
I found one in southern Indiana that was off of a California car, it looks super straight, and the guy I bought it from even had pictures of the car before he took it apart, and those looked great.
I got the frame horns painted, the bottom of the car reundercoated, inside and outside heater boxes installed, front brake lines and steering coupler installed. Also put in a lower shifter boot, and cleaned up that area. The drivers floor will be next year’s project.
I found one in southern Indiana that was off of a California car, it looks super straight, and the guy I bought it from even had pictures of the car before he took it apart, and those looked great.
I got the frame horns painted, the bottom of the car reundercoated, inside and outside heater boxes installed, front brake lines and steering coupler installed. Also put in a lower shifter boot, and cleaned up that area. The drivers floor will be next year’s project.
#99
About a month ago I started changing the valve springs in preparation for the new cam. About a third of the way through, I was noticing worn valve guides. I decided at that point that I was going to take the heads off, and have that taken care of, along with a valve job, and new seals. Once the heads were off, I found that some of the guides had been knurled. I decided to take the rest of the engine apart, and just have everything checked out. So far, after a quick preliminary look, the crank looks like it hasn’t been ground undersized, and the block looks to be .040 over without too much wear. Number 4 and 8 rods looked like they had been replaced, just by the more silvery color. It’s been about 3 weeks since I brought everything in. The guy is pretty busy, hopefully I get everything back soon. (I guess I should have started that part of the project sooner.)
Meanwhile, I took the Hurst shifter apart to clean it and found that it needed a new main pin, and shims. I ordered that stuff and rebuilt it.
Finally, I took the (new) core support apart, welded new metal in where it mounts, cleaned it up and painted it. Cleaned, straightened, sandblasted and painted the front bumper brackets as well.
Meanwhile, I took the Hurst shifter apart to clean it and found that it needed a new main pin, and shims. I ordered that stuff and rebuilt it.
Finally, I took the (new) core support apart, welded new metal in where it mounts, cleaned it up and painted it. Cleaned, straightened, sandblasted and painted the front bumper brackets as well.
#101
It's been awhile since my last post. It was pretty hot and humid for quite a while, so I wasn't doing much in the garage, then I got busy with the house stuff, getting the boat out and ready for winter. That happened early this year due to the drought we are having, the lake is down at least 2 and a half feet. It took 6 people and a shovel to get the boat out of the muck. I did get the new core support put together, cleaned up and painted the oil pan and valve covers
, and got the engine back last week. Haven't really had a chance to start putting the engine back together, but I'm looking forward to it. I'm very excited, I can't wait to hear it run.
, and got the engine back last week. Haven't really had a chance to start putting the engine back together, but I'm looking forward to it. I'm very excited, I can't wait to hear it run.
#103
I got the rest of the engine put together, got it painted and dropped it in!! Woohoo!! Getting closer.
I love the look of 400 bronze.
Getting ready.
I forgot what a tight fit it is.
I love the look of 400 bronze.
Getting ready.
I forgot what a tight fit it is.
#105
I've been moving right along. Just about have everything in the engine compartment done. Also got the core support, radiator, and right fender installed. That's the first fender that I've hung. It wasn't as difficult as I thought! I'm almost done with the exhaust. Next are the gauges, and the front bumper, then it's time to start it up!!
#107
6D7….I just found your thread. Nice ride! You guys are humiliating me with your lifts and hoists. I’m over here with a jack and a can of spray paint. 😁
You did your suspension pretty fast. What coils did you use?
You did your suspension pretty fast. What coils did you use?
#108
I'm going to check and see what coils I used.
How do you like your efi set up?
#109
I absolutely love my EFI. Starts on the first turn of the key every time. I had to educate myself on the basics of the controls and settings. Took a little tweaking at first, but now is maintenance free. Having a set of gauges (on a car that had none) has been VERY helpful too.
Now I wish I had paid a little extra for the Fitech unit that also allows spark timing control.
Now I wish I had paid a little extra for the Fitech unit that also allows spark timing control.
#113
First start
Got it started yesterday. Runs great and sounds great!! Just what I was hoping for. I'm very happy with the results. I even took it for a ride after the cam/lifter break-in.
#114
Here are a few videos of the start up. Hope you enjoy them as much as I do.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lZp...w?usp=drivesdk
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1uW5...w?usp=drivesdk
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lZp...w?usp=drivesdk
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1uW5...w?usp=drivesdk
#119
I did a couple more small projects. I bought some head rests and installed them. It was a little nerve wracking cutting holes in the vinyl. I took my time and they turned out great.
#120
I just finished sandblasting and painting the steel wheels, then had the new tires mounted. Put them on the car the other day with the dog dish caps, and I think it looks badass, I love the look.
And, I do know that the wheels SHOULD be body color, and the hubcaps are for 70-75, but I got a great deal on them, brand new repops for $100. Couldn't pass it up.
And, I do know that the wheels SHOULD be body color, and the hubcaps are for 70-75, but I got a great deal on them, brand new repops for $100. Couldn't pass it up.