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FYI to us SBO guys, Mark talked to Clevite and King both had .030" rod bearings in stock. The had zero .030" main bearings in stock and don't plan on making anymore. The Federal Mogul Bi metal bearing is the only option in that oversize. Summit has .040" as special order through King on rod and main bearings but that could be a long wait, probably the same for .030" mains.
So I put these tires on the back, they are now 6 years old with two tiny cracks on the inside near the rim. They will be the new motor torque tester😁. Pretty sure 205/75R14's won't spin much😳. The weapon of choice.
I decided since I want to strip the Duplicolor garbage paint off the serpentine accessories and off my heads, blasting without a cabinet is brutal. I bought this at $70 off.
Also shipping is free due to Pandemic, so $150ish with a 52 bag of crushed glass shipped to my door. I already have this in yellow, which I will set up to feed this bad boy.
I talked to Mark, going off the spec for a 8171PT head gasket on the Summit Racing site of .039". I assumed that would leave me .036" piston to head, borderline but pr. He mentioned. 042" was the actual spec. I happen to have a used 8171PT hanging on a hook, it read .042" like he said, imagine that. That should put me at .039" piston to head, about perfect. I am going to polish the iron #6 chambers to 68cc so it will be apples to apples when I swap eventually to the Edelbrock aluminum. That will put me right at 9.5 to 1, should allow a nice timing curve on 91. The only variable will be the new 1.65 ratio(.541" lift) from Mark to 1 vs 1.6 ratio roller tip rocker arms(.525" lift), I also have 1.72 ratio(.564"), I may run but they need checking in the push rod cup area .I don't want anymore delays from this machine shop as the iron heads need .100" milled off the rocker pads to properly run the new rockers. I am probably selling my Performer intake as clearancing may be needed for the roller lifters and limits this combos. Not worth it to run the hot air choke.
Power fist, princess auto probably. That our version of your harbor freight.
Exactly right Dave, Canada's Harbor Freight. Only sale and free shipping due to the Pandemic, $150 and included 5 extra window films. The light is extra but the switch is there. It showed up today, looks good.
Well, I sold the two tires for $60 I was going to burn off to the neighbours Dad who bought this. It has the 250 straight 6, the salvage yard only has Winter tires and he my tires better for the front.
Well, I sold the two tires for $60 I was going to burn off to the neighbours Dad who bought this. It has the 250 straight 6, the salvage yard only has Winter tires and he my tires better for the front.
I never mentioned my neighbour's Dad just traded his 64 Impala for 72 Viking Blue and White top, Olds Cutlass Convertible. It has the 15" SS3 rims, a rebuilt Olds 350 and a Sniper EFI. I told everything being done to my 70. I told him he was lucky to have the cheaper to build rear than my 70 S. I asked him how the Holley Sniper ran, he was having issues. The previous owner put an inline pump that burnt out. I told him Holley has a plug n play electric fuel pump for our cars. He said he just replaced the tank and this fuel pump. He moved it below the tank. I told him the price and it was similar to the cost for the inline one. If it does again, he will go that route. Expect pictures when he brings it up.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; July 31st, 2021 at 05:12 AM.
I have a little more faith restored in my machine shop. I contacted them about checking the big end dimensions. He said, anytime the small end is checked or sized in my case, they automatically check the big end dimensions. So once the bearings arrive from Mark, balancing then assembly can happen!
More parts, almost all of them now. Mark has had issues with the Melling High Volume oil pumps, he contacted them about their gear feel issue, so waiting on that. My Daughter is going to Yorkton on Monday, getting her to drop off a ring set and a set of .030" rod bearings so the internal balancing can be completed. The look and feel of the US made Cloyes billet timing and my Daughter's Boyfriend was super impressed by how thin the ring set was. I told him Mahle's propriety material makes the 1mm/1mm/2mm ring pack possible. He noticed the laser etching on the ring.. He figured they would wear out quicker, I said actually the opposite. The ultra thin rings will last way longer without wearing like the thick 5/64" ring packs. It will also help seal with Mahle pistons needing half the clearance of the old Speedpro forged piston, .0025" needed. Getting closer, once the crank is back from balancing, already ground, assembly will begin. I will make sure my Daughter brings back my other parts so I can file fit the rings. The Cloyes US Billet timing set is so much nicer than any of the cheaper double sets I have used.
My Daughter dropped off the ring set and rod bearings. Now the Mahle pistons now attached to the Molnar rods and the 330 forged crank is heading to the other shop for internal balancing.
I love checking on your thread. Not every car has to be one of blah blah blah. You giving this car the love that you have speaks volumes. I love people building Their Car. Building a car to Your liking rocks. You are giving your love that it probably never would have seen without you. Good on you. Cheers 🍻
I plan on building a really nice long distance cruiser, than can do a decent 1/8 or 1/4 mile. The Olds 350 is way under used in the auto world. Thanks to the new parts Mr Remmel has brought to market, I have bottom end to modern standards. Eventually it will get the new Edelbrock heads and sequential EFI. For now maybe 350 hp and 400 ft/lbs is plenty especially with a 2004R and 3.90 gears out back. After putting a lot of miles on my 2017 Challenger GT, I need my Olds drivetrain up to modern standards.
I plan on putting my 300 psi gauge on my 2004R this week and see where the CK boost valves put the line pressure. I may also install the improved CK GN servo as well. If it isn't pushing 225 psi minimum in the foward gears, it won't live long behind the new 358.
With working gauge, not impressed with the numbers. I am below the minimum recommended which I was at and the last trans shifted nice, 225 in manual drive gears with full TV pull. All the no TV pull at 1000 rpm were good at 90 psi. With full TV pull
Park 195
Reverse 180
Neutral 190
OD 190
D 190
2 195
1 190
The last trans was good on the reverse like 280 but needed .555" boost valves to hit 225 psi in the foward gears, 190 with the .500" boost valve. This is with the CK .555"/.300" boost valves. I will buying two things from CK to give this trans a fighting chance.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; August 27th, 2021 at 10:06 AM.
So the saga continues, the machine shop called and gave me the number of the balancing shop. He said, they could not internally balance my crankshaft. I called the guy, he said they didn't have the capability to add Mallory weights, WYF? Really, this is the shop you sent my crank to for internal balancing! I told him, weigh my pistons and rods, they are about 600 grams each. This 330 crank was supposedly balanced with heavy 18cc dish Speedpro forged pistons on heavy stock rods. I told him to please check first, if anything, weight should need removed from the counter weights. He was going to check, I left Wayne my number🤔.
So I ordered the CK high pressure pump, shift kit, supposedly the best one on the market and their complete seal kit for my 2004R. Let's see if I can get one of these old GM transmissions not to leak. I do have 5W30 Synthetic blend and 10W30 conventional Trans Hydraulic fluid for tractors, we sell a ton of it. I know a few guys use it in their racing trans on this site.
Exactly, they can't add Mallory, good grief. I might call them and see what they found. Mark figured 2 slugs might be needed, even with pistons and rods being 400+ grans less. I didn't notice any slugs in the crank so it may have been externally balanced.
I remembered the issue of having too big of an heater hose outlet on these cars. I just had a hardware store 3/4" open nipple in my RPM manifold. I had another reduced outlet nipple. Of course it only had 1/2" threads, so a 1/2" to 3/4" adapter was needed.
I will probably call the machine shop next week. My crank better be balanced and find out the grand total for machine work.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; October 16th, 2021 at 07:07 PM.
I talked to the machine shop. The balancing shop that only uses lead forgot to send my crank to Precise Engine. Supposedly got dropped off this afternoon. At least I will be able to pick it up in person. I will be in Saskatoon for the next 3 to 6 months, so no rush on this anyways. As long I get it together for spring.
Just got a call from Jim at Precise Engine in Saskatoon. He called me, noticed the really nice parts for my Olds 350, thanks Mark and assumed I wanting it internally balanced, which I do. I mentioned Mark was thinking 2 slugs, he will let me know if it is anything ridiculous. Sounds like the final piece will finally be ready!
Well, anyone who says internal balancing is cheap. It was supposedly balanced with Speedpro forged pistons, it must have been externally balanced or it was another lie. It is on the machine and needs a lot of weight. It is looking at $1500 to internally balance. Oh well it is only money🤑.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; November 4th, 2021 at 08:52 AM.
I'm sure my crank is done, will pick it up in a week or 2. I bought these for a very good price on Amazon, now I only will Edelbrock heads with roller springs and MLS head gaskets, if I decide to go that route.
Well, I put in a complaint through PayPal for CK Performance after 81 days. Suddenly I had a response they were waiting on parts. I asked what parts, they said pump parts. They suddenly said it should be done by Friday🤔. Not dropping the claim till I recieve a tracking number that it is on the way.
After much wrangling, I am getting the CK Performance high pressure pump, their shift kit, the best on the market and a full seal kit for my 2004R. I also have their improved GN servo, a better servo is necessary for firmer shifts. I am also getting the rigid carrier with rubber sealing beads Mr Gasket pan gasket. Of course I am using my deep pan and a fresh 4L60E bottom feed filter. BTW, anyone who thinks you can just put new parts and get close to 300 psi, it won't happen. The best I got out a rebuilt pump I did with the later 13 vane and rotor, which is questionable for strength, hardened rings and upgraded slide springs needed a .555" boost valve to hit 220 psi. If you have access to a mill to machine the case halves and time on your hands, go for it.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; December 10th, 2021 at 05:02 AM.
I bought some good used 3.08 gears for the Type O, saved $300 over a new 3.42 gear. Thanks Dale. My Challenger has 3.09 gears with the same OD gear. It should work great for the 65 to 70+ mph cruise with 1" to 3" shorter tires. The other good part is all the available aftermarket posi and gears are based off the 3.08-3.23 carrier. It needs an axle seal done, hoping to get a new posi and bearings by next winter to replace the 2.78 open.
So my piston ring filer will be here shortly. I measured one of the file fit rings, only .006" gap! I need .020" or may another .003" top for future boost options and .0025" second and .010" minimum on the oil rails. I measured a couple of crank journals and used a snap gauge and micrometer with the bearings torqued in the main housing and rod. I found .0026" rods and .0028" mains for clearance. I asked for .0022 to .0025" rods and .0025" to .0028", those were Mark's recommendations. They are close enough. The balance shop micro polished the crank after the other shop cut it.
Mark just sent the cam button, Scat balancer, Melling high volume oil pump and AEM wideband. That just leaves push rods, MLS head gaskets and new Edelbrock heads. I am thinking of .045" with the pistons .003 above deck.
So my Mom's house sold, it should mean $20K coming my way. There is also crude oil money tied to it and we will no longer be paying for taxes and hydro on the house. With crude oil way up, it should add up nicely by the end of the year. We each received $800 this year, it should be 3 times that for this year, no $1500 tax bill and probably $1000 a year in heat and will pay out next spring. I will also be inheriting another share on the same oil well, probably this year, it will all go to me, so 3 times as much. My Wife and I discussed what bills we would pay off. It will open up enough funds to maybe get another new car. While a second Challenger GT would be nice, still a good deal at 50K, I said how about we put aside that money every month and I send the 70S to a good body shop this Winter. She has agreed and honestly the boat and car are almost paid for, so less soon, no long term debt. The 70S needs rear quarters, which are available again, door skins should be available by Summer and at least one front quarter, which should be available by fall, just looking online. I will call RPM, just 300 km North of me in Saskatoon and get these parts on order. I am also on the look out for another 88 to 95 GMC/Chebby 4x4, possibly a 3/4 in non rotten condition. I saw a good one on the Ritchie Bros auction site, I may sign up. It had higher mileage but looked very good body and paint wise, most important. My main issue is the weak 700R4/4L60E and the aluminum front diff on the 92 to 95 truck, especially with the planned motor. My Dakota has a year or two left of life, so no rush. I have an Olds motor planned for it, every part except a BBO pan and $1500 worth of machine work. It is my 403 block with the 3.5" stroker assembly for 424 CI. It would get my number 6 heads, a 204/214 cam, low 9 to 1 for compression, Sanderson shorty headers and the 2.5" exhaust currently on the Cutlass. There is a 34" dual core, 36" total width aluminum radiator available for these trucks. That should cool the 424. I just ordered the Chinese full length stainless headers which will go in place of the Sanderson shorties and 2.5" X pipe exhaust on the 70S. I am running my Copper gaskets SCE gaskets at the head and ordered Copper collector gaskets. I coat the gaskets with Optimum Grey, better than Ultra Copper. No leaks for years. I find regular gaskets including the Ultraseal, especially the Collector gaskets are lucky to last months before they blow out. Now Edelbrock just needs to release their new head this year and the new 358 motor can be completed!
I talked to RPM. They said the partial door skins are discontinued. The front fenders are also on indefinite back order. The rear quarters they are expecting any time. They told me to call back Monday, they should know by then. Honestly, the rear quarters are the worst by far and blasting and some minor repair and a small patch on the driver's front quarter may be enough. These parts came to go with the cats and band clamps I had. Also an adjustable push rod, oil filter cutter and an adjustable push rod.
July 22nd, 2021, 11:18 AM
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