ck_79ta_build

Not sure if this is the right place for this question, but I have a 79 trans am with 301 nonturbo and th350. I am building a motor to swap out the 301 with and have never pulled a motor before. Right now it looks like some of the bolts would be very difficult to get to so that I could disconnect the motor from the tranny. Is it easier to just pull both out together? Any advice on either way be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

redoldsman

I would suggest buying a factory shop manual. It will detail how to remove the engine and will make your life a lot easier. You should be able to find one on ebay.

oldcutlass

The car needs to be jacked as high as you can get it on jack stands. All the bolts are accessible by either from the top or under the engine with common hand tools. A long extension and a swivel comes in handy. I personally, like to pull and install the engine and trans at the same time.

ck_79ta_build

I have the tires sitting about 8in off the ground. Do you think that is high enough for the tranny to be able to swing out?

Sugar Bear

I don't know about the overall height but suggest that if you plan on removing the engine and transmission together, unbolt the three converter bolts while the assembly is still in the car. It can still be done with the assembly out but it's easier in the car.

ck_79ta_build

Is this what you are referencing?

redoldsman

I think Eric's point about having the car up high is so you can get under it and get the transmission, exhaust, motor mounts and all the rest of the stuff like wiring disconnected. Unless you have a tall gantry crane, you will need to put the car back on the ground because you will never get the engine and transmission over the front of the car.

redoldsman

That is just a supplement for 1979 to the 1978 manual. For what you are doing, the 78 manual is probably what you want since the supplement just covers the changes from 1978 to 1979. You do not want a CD or reprint. What you want is an authentic GM Manual that has been used. I looked on ebay and here is the best deal I found.

1978 Pontiac Shop Service Manual Book OEM | eBay

GEARMAN69

easy job , leave the transmission in .. Use a good old Craftsmen 9/16 combination wrench for the 6 bell housing bolts then loose the dust cover and drop exhaust or cut with sawzall if needed , 3 converter bolts easy peasey and the simple more bolts from the front with a ratchet and extension... ya'll talking about to read shop manual to pull this is ridiculous

Bfg

Sounds like you have removed an engine or two in your life time but for someone that has never done this before might be a good idea to get a manual, this way he can check all the boxes when doing so. There’s a lot more than just unbolting the bell housing and exhaust. This is probably a young man just learning.

ck_79ta_build

Yep, young man just learning lol. I'm trying to figure out what would be the easiest option. Id like to leave the transmission in but just looking at it, it looks like some of the bolts would be very hard to get too. I'll slowly figure it out but any info or advice in detail helps

redoldsman

Gearman69, you or I and many others on here could pull this engine in a few hours without a manual. This is a young enthusiast that has never pulled an engine and thus my recommendation for a shop manual which he will be able to use even when he is done with this project. So no, I don't think it is ridiculous. Putting the engine back in is going to be more involved than pulling it.

joe_padavano

I've pulled lots of engines with the trans still in the car. The trick is using the correct offset box wrenches to reach those six bellhousing bolts. Is this the car the 403 is going into? You know you need the correct block brackets for the Olds motor, right?

Fun71

If you don't pull the transmission, be sure to support the front to prevent it from drooping. After the engine is out, I use a coat hanger or similar wire bent through one of the upper bell housing bolt holes and attached to the upper firewall / cowl area.

ck_79ta_build

Yes, Ive got the right block brackets. Thanks!
something like these work for the offset wrenches?
https://www.harborfreight.com/8-piec...hoCjBEQAvD_BwE

ck_79ta_build

Ordered the manual! thanks for finding that, im sure it will be a lot of help going further with other things as well.

Thanks for the info, everything helps!

redoldsman

We all started somewhere. When many of us started, we didn't have the advantage of the internet or a site like this. We read books and magazines. Good luck on your project. Where are you located?

joe_padavano

It depends. I've got wrenches similar to those, I've got combo wrenches with angled ends, and I've got flat ratcheting box end wrenches. Seems like I invariably need one of each...

oldcutlass

Most of us just rolled up our sleeves and dove into the deep end head first, then over came problems as they came up. Trial by fire.

ck_79ta_build

North Alabama, the car is my dad's that sat for 20 some years so just getting it going has been great. We both agreed though that the 301 needed to go and i found a deal on the 403 that i couldnt pass up.

ck_79ta_build

I know what you mean, i'll keep all that in mind though whenever something isnt working for me lol. Thanks for the info

MO Olds 2022

All good advice above. Would only suggest buying the 78 manual as stated and the digital version; each have their strengths like being able to keyword search on the digital. As a newbie myself, only advice I didn't see was to take your time. Lastly, I always put parts in Ziploc baggies with labels (piece of masking tape inside the bag for a label) and notate what it goes too. Then put those bags together, e.g all transmission bags into one large paper bag.

bigrbandit

Here's my list on how to pull an engine, cut and pasted into here.

Engine Pulling List

Stuff to get - hoist, jack and stands, pulling chain, engine tilter, long ⅜ bolts, nuts, and washers, engine stand, tire, pressure washer, wheel chocks, plastic bags, duct tape, trans yoke or plug, sharpies, digital camera, rubbermaid totes, trash bags, rags, power steering pump puller. Metric engine stand bolts for LS.
Vehicle Prep

Wash entire vehicle including underhood and beneath

Clean out garage, get bags and boxes, camera

move vehicle to garage

Remove Battery

trans to neutral

Block wheels

Air Cleaner

remove Carb/injection

plug fuel lines.

Remove Distributor cap

Radiator shroud

Fan and belts

Alternator

Unbolt and Lay aside A/c Compressor WITHOUT REMOVING LINES

Vacuum Lines

EGR Valve?

Label and pull Ignition wires and Cap

Oil Pressure Sender wire

Water temp wire

Choke wire

Throttle cable

Jack up car and put on stands

remove torque converter cover

turn engine to #1TDC using flywheel tool

Mark and take pictures of dist rotor/base position.

Crossmember and trans bolts

Trans linkage

Speedo Cable/Trans Connectors

Exhaust and long tube headers

O2 sensor and wire

Battery cables

Starter wiring

Kickdown/TV linkage

Rear Ujoint – carrier bearing, Driveshaft

Plug and tape trans end housing

Drain coolant

Radiator

Radiator hoses

Power Steering Pump

Transmission Cooler Lines - plug holes

Fuel Lines

Heater hoses

Motor Mount Bolts

Install lift chain

lower car Mark Hood Hinges

Remove Hood

Raise Trans w jack, remove crossmember
Pull Engine

raise engine slowly, checking for entanglements, lower jack under trans.

Motor mount supports

lower onto prepped tire

plug all entries with tape/plugs

Put Away Tools/ store engine and trans.

Install Hood and park vehicle
Cleanup and Car Prep

Clean underhood

Fix wiring issues, plug firewall holes

Cut holes in frame for motor mount bolt access?

replace motor and trans mounts

Paint underhood

clean and paint crossmember

Clean transmission and paint exterior

Replace transmission seals front and rear

install converter, verify pump engagement

install trans on engine, use blue loctite on flexplate bolts

Adjust Kickdown cable

body to frame ground strap

install transmission lines on trans

fuel filter and rubber lines replaced

replace heater hoses

lube suspension
Reinstallation

Long Tube Headers in car

Install Engine/Trans

Motor Mount Bolts

Trans bolts and crossmember

lift chain removal - hoist to storage

raise car

driveshaft

trans connectors and cables - lockup wiring

shift linkage

starter

starter wiring

block to body ground strap

knock sensor

block to frame ground

torque converter cover

exhaust

emergency brake cable adjust

lower car

O2 sensor

oil pressure sender/line

distributor, advance line, wiring

TBI/Carb/MAP sensor/Temp Sensors

brackets

coil - ignition wiring

throttle Linkage

fuel lines

vac lines

wiring

front brackets and mounts

PS pump

accessories

belts

ignition wires

fans

radiator and shroud

heater hoses

trans lines

rad hoses

battery cables
Before Starting

remove everything from behind and around vehicle

have wet towels, water hose, fire extinguisher ready

have phone ready

battery installed and on charger

disconnect ignition

verify full of oil, ATF, PS fluid, fuel and WATER - no leaks

add 8qts trans fluid if dry.

check vehicle brakes, rad cap off

Engine needs to be pre-lubed w drill or plugs removed and spun w starter

Insert dist and set timing - verify #1TDC on FIRING cycle, connect timing light.

fill carb bowl with squirt gun filled with 2 cycle premix

Push out of garage before testing fuel pump or starting

EFI - turn fuel pump on and verify no fuel leaks,

connect injectors and ignition
Startup and Break-In

Set brakes, start cranking, check timing if no fire in 5 seconds.

Watch oil pressure, shut off if no pressure in 2 sec.

once oil pressure OK, 2000-3000rpm for 30 minutes verify temp, voltage, oil pressure normal.

Have someone watch for leaks and fires

add water as needed after startup, 2qts trans fluid

allow to idle and check trans level, verify temp, voltage, oil pressure normal.

Adjust timing and carb, Check Reverse and Drive work before leaving driveway.

Take for an easy drive - verify shifting thru all gears and lockup

2nd gear half throttle to 2-4k 20 times up and down.

Go park and check for leaks.

Drain water and refill with 50% coolant mix

Change oil and filter to 10w30 oil w zinc additive for non-roller cams - check for metal

Drive less than half throttle, less than 4000rpm for 500 miles.

Change oil and filter to 10w30 oil w zinc additive for non-roller cams - check for metal

Change oil and filter in 2000 miles to 10w30 conventional

Drive Normally, use full throttle and under 6000 rpm

Change to synthetic 5w30 after 4000 miles.