1971 Cutlass Supreme just purchased as is
#1
1971 Cutlass Supreme just purchased as is
Other side similar
Other side similar
Car rides and drives ok, front end loose. Low oil pressure. Previous owner said original owner had a cam replaced and may have contributed to low oil pressure condition. Been mostly sitting since 06, driven + or - 200 miles according to previous owner. I'm not sure which direction to go with this car....
#5
I'd first establish a goal - daily driver, full restoration (rotisserie), etc. Establish a budget. How much you going to do yourself &/or shop out (budget). Based upon budget write out a couple plans on paper (or otherwise; e.g. Excel spreadsheet, Word, notepad - whatever) under select categories: i.e. suspension, engine, transmission, body work, brakes, electrical, AC, interior upholstery, etc. Add prices of replacement pieces along the way. Nice project car.
#12
If you are decided on keeping the car, I'd try to figure out what the low oil pressure issue may be - fully tune the motor up (new plugs, wires, cap/rotor oil change, air/fuel filters, coolant flush, etc.), maybe run 15w-40 oil when you change it, to see if that brings the pressure up a bit temporarily. Also replace the oil sending unit on the block for good measure (they're cheap but make sure you get the correct one - different units for factory dash gauge vs. warning light)
I'd also suggest replacing the battery cables and voltage regulator (if still the external part) - originals are way past their safety limits at this point.
Otherwise agree on replacing chassis related items first - suspension, brakes, steering. Replace the fuel pump, gas tank (new aftermarket pricing fairly reasonable) and sending unit.
Assuming it has 14" wheels, consider moving up a size ito at least 15" so you can comfortably upgrade to front disc brakes if it doesn't have them, or at least for a better tire selection.
...and the beat goes on!
I'd also suggest replacing the battery cables and voltage regulator (if still the external part) - originals are way past their safety limits at this point.
Otherwise agree on replacing chassis related items first - suspension, brakes, steering. Replace the fuel pump, gas tank (new aftermarket pricing fairly reasonable) and sending unit.
Assuming it has 14" wheels, consider moving up a size ito at least 15" so you can comfortably upgrade to front disc brakes if it doesn't have them, or at least for a better tire selection.
...and the beat goes on!
Last edited by 70sgeek; August 6th, 2022 at 04:48 PM.
#16
I just looked at your photos again and noticed the loose dash chrome trim
you can replace it with OPGI's full kit (new strip and clips) pretty cheaply
Molding, Dashboard, 1970-72 Cutlass, Chrome @ OPGI.com
you can replace it with OPGI's full kit (new strip and clips) pretty cheaply
Molding, Dashboard, 1970-72 Cutlass, Chrome @ OPGI.com
#19
While your recommendation is good, it's highly doubtful the OP will see your recommendation since their last on-site activity was nearly two years ago - October 21st, 2022 02:49 PM.
#21
Given where that oil gauge is mounted, I would say their is much more danger of stressing copper tubing past its fatigue strength by opening and closing the hood then there is with a plastic line. Not that it matters since this thread was long dead anyway, but given the location of that oil gauge, the best bet would be an AN braided line.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post