bumper chrome removal

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Old November 4th, 2012, 07:44 PM
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bumper chrome removal

my bumper is in very bad condition,[1973 98] i want to weld in the rust holes and paint it.how can i remove the chrome,if i heat it up with a cutting torch would the chrome peel off,or will i have to grind it off?
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Old November 5th, 2012, 05:41 AM
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Saw this post early this morning and thought about it for awhile, then I came back and then realized that you live in my part of the world(New Brunswick) The quick easy answer is yes, but not sure if heat will do the job. The chrome itself is very thin, it is the nickel (and copper) that is underneath thats the tough barrier you have to cross. You can grind it off, it is very tough and it is easy to really make a mess because so much grinding is needed. It all raises the question of just what the aim is. If you are going to use chrome paint after welding the holes and smoothing up, I would think a better approach would be to use wide chrome tape over the holes and save all the work. If the bumper is salvageable and your aim is to get it rechromed,then it must be stripped with the proper acid in a tank. Then the holes can be welded(if there is anything left) and plated and polished again with a new finish. I recall those bumpers were ripe after only a few years, but I wouldn't give up hope of finding a donor somewhere. Pretty sure a saw a big olds of that year this summer somewheres. Didn't say front or back?
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Old November 5th, 2012, 07:21 AM
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it's the rear bumper,the bottom part below the rubber has large holes,I want to cut out the rust and weld in patchs ,smooth it out and paint it,just the lower section,may just rough it up then prime and paint.thanks for reply.
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Old November 5th, 2012, 08:15 AM
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Take it to a re-chrome shop and have them de-plate it. Or, find another one that is good.
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Old November 5th, 2012, 01:44 PM
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I would rough it up then use epoxy base primer and coat it with wet coats until the scratches are filled. Then top coat, staying inside the recoat window of the epoxy.
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Old November 5th, 2012, 06:04 PM
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I had mine sand blasted, bad rust and pitting. I'm gonna try Hi-Temp Lab-Metal to fill the pits and then re-chrome or do powder-coat chrome. Give me a week or so and I will let you know the results????
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Old November 6th, 2012, 08:43 AM
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rechrome is just not in the budget at this time,and finding a good one is like finding hens teeth,i have seen them on this site,but shipping is a killer,just want to patch it up so i can get it on the road.
never though to sand blast it,i'll give that a try after i fill the holes.
thanks all.
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Old November 6th, 2012, 09:25 AM
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Didn't say what part of N.B. I know there is a guy in Hillsborough that has/has 98 Olds but a bit crazy, has a lot of junk around a barn and god knows whats there but definitely an Olds fan/hoarder.
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Old November 6th, 2012, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by greenslade
rechrome is just not in the budget at this time,and finding a good one is like finding hens teeth,i have seen them on this site,but shipping is a killer,just want to patch it up so i can get it on the road.
never though to sand blast it,i'll give that a try after i fill the holes.
thanks all.
Yes sir, I understand about the cost of a rechrome job$$$$$ That's why I'm seeking an alternative.
Rechrome on the front & rear of my 57' is about $1500. I'm hoping to come out with the PC for about $4-500??
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Old November 7th, 2012, 06:56 AM
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I live about 10 km from hillsbo checked at sniders garage he has some bigs olds but nothing that i could use,and have spoken with a fellow in the area that knows of the place that you mentions,i am going to get togeather with him and go look around.
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Old November 7th, 2012, 08:27 AM
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I'm referring to Beaker (nickname). He knows me but I haven't seen him in awhile, possibly some health problems. If you are lucky enough to get a tour around, keep an eye out for any 50's stuff but not sure if he collected that far back. I'll loan you a camera if you don't have one, pictures would be great to see.I'm in Lower Coverdale, probably know who I am any ways by now. Did you get your Olds from Hillsborough? There was a '73 I think stored by an older fellow I know for many years just before Hillsborough in a barn, wasn't sure if he sold it or not but was bugging me for years to take it. 'sposed to be in good shape, a 98 Olds. And I'm pretty sure there was a big Olds of that era on a trailer at the route ?? swap meet out in Scoudouc this fall on Saturday after all the rain.
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Old November 7th, 2012, 06:56 PM
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I did buy the car you refered to.guy that owned the barn took the barn down,owner gave him the car and i bought it,an old gent in riverview owned it I looked him up because it was still in his name.nice old fellow.

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Old November 9th, 2012, 09:53 AM
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floyd hargrove.
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Old November 10th, 2012, 12:54 PM
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Bumper

Hi,
Just been through all this myself.

Be carefull if you eventually want that particular bumper you intend working on fixed and re-chromed proffesionally later. As what you do can make later an expensive re-chrome turn into an astronomical or worse - impossible re-chrome.

Speaking with 2 different chromers, one of which I got to do mine and one other panel beater, this is what these guys do here:
Because these bumpers are so thick, welding is done from the back to fix holes not as traditional from the front. Same as dings/dents. These are filled from the rear of the bar and hammered out towards the front. Which in turns just pushed the original metal to the surface to be chromed.

If sand blasting or bead or soda blasting, warping will not be an issue, however pitting could be. What pits are put into it will have to be filled with nikel, copper or whatever. That means later expense for you.

More of my before and after shots are through my forum posts re bumper bars.

Just don't want anyone to suffer as I have. Hope this helps.
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Old December 1st, 2012, 04:57 AM
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Originally Posted by NGABronco
Yes sir, I understand about the cost of a rechrome job$$$$$ That's why I'm seeking an alternative.
Rechrome on the front & rear of my 57' is about $1500. I'm hoping to come out with the PC for about $4-500??
Had to scrap that idea!!! The Lab Metal works great, however there's a step I missed. After applying and allowing to dry 24 hrs. the piece needs to be heat treated @450 degrees for an hour. Once sanded, you may need an additional
application and another heat treating. For large pieces that's an additional $60-100 bucks. I'm gonna paint my rear bumper and may do some small parts my oven and have them chromed or powder coated. The heat treating was a major added expense.
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