Pfiffle

Anyone use it? Or is it just another gimmick "fix all".

J-(Chicago)

I think it sucks.

J-(Chicago)

Your best bet is to run a top tier gasoline if you want a cleaner engine. Chevron, Shell, or 76 are all good gasolines.
http://toptiergas.com/deposit_control.html

Seafoam is just Alcohol, water, naptha
and refinery runoff pale oil. http://lyondell.com/lyondell/techlit...0_PALE_OIL.pdf

Also I suggest that you do some research on hydrolock before you use it. Even though it will be very hard to hydrolock anything with a small can of seafoam, it's a good thing to know about before putting random liquids into your motor.

Pfiffle

Ok, I'm glad I asked. I've got a dieseling problem with my 1970 Ninety Eight 455 4 barrel. I bought it off a 90 year old woman and I'll bet she was using the cheapest gas available and probably lower octane that this engine requires. I believe It has 10.25:1 compression. I'll start with draining the tank and filling it with Super, give it a good run, and see what happens. Thanks.

J-(Chicago)

Check your timing.

Pfiffle

Yes, I will check the timing. Thanks. It's on jack stands for now but when I let it down, I'm going to install the Pertonex coil/ignition in it also. Carb probably needs a rebuild after 38 years too. I'm going to stay away from Sea foam.

The_Jeremiah

what i always do, is fill it with premuim and add some fuel injector/carb cleaner, and take it down the freeway at 75. for awhile good luck

Pfiffle

Yes. I will give it a good run.

Olds64

I like Sea Foam. I think it is one of the better oil/gas additives. They might not do much but they can give you peace of mind.

Oldsguy had a 1989 Ford LTD with a 5.0L engine that had sticky lifters and leaky valve guides. A friend of his had some auto tech students take a look at it. They drained the oil, filled it with Sea Foam and let it sit for a week. Then they drained the Sea Foam, added oil and an appropriate amount of Sea Foam to the crankcase and started it up. No more noisy lifters. However, the additive must have destroyed the valve guide seals because it smoked HORRIBLY!

don71

I have had good luck with sea foam. Following the directions on the can, it cured my problem. I make it a habit to use it twice a year now.

J-(Chicago)

If they had filled Oldsguy's motor with trans fluid, it would have probably worked with a similar (or better) result.

Oldsguy

I was sure relieved to sell that thing. It had just gotten old, and since it was not an Oldsmobile, no need to save it.

Pfiffle

Well, then I guess it's an option if Good gas and ignition/timing don't solve it. As I said, the previous owner was a 90 year old woman who used it to go to Bingo and the food store so It probably didn't see the highway much. It's got 76,000 original miles and it's a Texas car. The paint is fried but there's no rust. Still waiting for my QQ plates though (New Jersey!) and theres alot of snow and salt on the roads here. A good highway run might help. Thanks for all the input.

Bluevista

Does that carb have the anti-dieseling/stall dashpot or solenoid? I had the same problem when I shut mine down and just adjusted the solenoid/dashpot to specified rpm and the reset the timing to specs, always with premium gas and to running temperature. If it is doing it while driving timing and bad gas would be suspect as mentioned in the other posts. The Pertronix unit is a good move, first thing I do is put pointless conversions in my cars. I have had good luck with the Mallory Unilite conversion unit, have had one for 12 years in my Goat and has never missed a beat. I remember all the boat guys using that Sea-Foam stuff when I was a kid, my Dad swore by it. I always find tons of sludge in the engines of old folks cars, a lot just don't drive far enough to warm them up properly.

Allan

Pfiffle

Where on the carb would that dashpot be located? I know theres a dashpot on there but I'm not sure if it's the one you are reffering to. Tom.

rocketraider

Look on the driver's side front of the carb. Sometimes they're electric, sometimes vacuum operated, and sometimes just a simple spring dashpot. The idea is to drop idle speed/throttle plate opening to where the engine starves for air and can't run.

You must remember 1970 was the peak of Olds high-compression. Those engines do not like low octane gas; they were designed for 100-106 octane. Use the best premium you can find and add some lead substitute to each tankful. Jack Podell www.jackpodellfuelinjections.com sells a good quality product that is about the only one I've found that does what it claims.

SeaFoam won't hurt a thing in your engine. Like Marvel Mystery Oil, a product doesn't stay around for 60+ years unless it does something right. Used properly it's a very good decarbonizer/top engine cleaner.

Trans fluid, MMO or Rislone are high detergent fine oils that, used in the crankcase, will dissolve sludge and free sticky rings and lifters. However, they don't do anything for carbon buildup on valves and pistons. You need a different type of solvent for that. Diesel and JP-4 are some powerful solvents if you're not afraid to put a quart or so in your tank when you fill up, but the car will smoke and stink like nothing you ever saw...

J, I'm not following your hydrolock theory. You put the SF in thru a vacuum port, it's going to vaporize before it hits the intake valves. A liquid goes from atmospheric pressure to 15-20" Hg vacuum, it's not going to stay liquid. That's why it's possible to pour some water down the carb throat and crack off carbon deposits. It vaporizes under engine vacuum, and when it hits combustion chamber temps, it flashes to steam.

GoodOldsGuy

One other forum member mentioned a decarbonizer...I think you might have carbon buildup on top of the pistons. With the engine hot and the compression ratio as high as it is, the run on might just be caused by the glowing carbon on top of the pistons. Just MHO. A little water or Top Engine Cleaner (GM) drizzled in at RPM (2,000) then let stand for 20 min. Start up and stand back. (smoke) When it clears your problem should be gone. Just my 2 cents. Hope this works for your problem.

Regards,

GoodOldsGuy

J-(Chicago)

Hey man, I have seen hillbillies take off their carbs, and dump the bottle down their intake before. You just never know what people are going to do with it.

Oh you broke your leg?? rub some Robitussin on it, let it soak in. Haha. You never know.....

Pfiffle

Excellent info Guys, thanks. This site never lets me down.

Olds64

I have also heard that you can pour ATF down the carburetor while the engine is running to help clean the engine. I don't know if it works but it surely makes the engine smoke. I could definitely see how Sea Foam, Diesel, or JP4 would clean the engine when used in the same manner. I would just be afraid of damaging something.

Pfiffle

Yes, thats my concern. I really don't know much about the history of this car axcept that an older person owned it.From that I'm just guessing that the cylinders have some carbon in them and thats whats causing the dieseling and read somewhere that Sea Foam clears that sort of thing. I know in the old Days my father used to take his cars on a (High Speed) highway run to "blow the carbon out" once in a while. Speeding tickets and insurance were cheaper back then though.

Pfiffle

Well, I sea foamed it.(1970 Ninety Eight) Had it sipping through the PCV hose from a cup. Turned it off. Waited 5 minutes. Started it up and no thick cloud of smoke. It didn't diesel when I turned it off though. Should I have used another vaccum hose? Or did it do It's job? I was expecting a big cloud and I did it today because It's cold as hell outside and my nieghbors would not get that **** in their houses with windows closed. The gas gauge worked for a while too ( I recently drained the old gas with a siphon) maybe that loosened the mechanichels in the sending unit. Any thought? Tom.

Oldsguy

If that is the way the directions said to apply it then you did it right. No cloud of smoke? Does it warn you that will happen? Perhaps expecting to break down the valve guide sludge? I don't know.....

Maybe adding some to the fuel tank would loosen some more stuff but then you run the risk of clogging the filter sock on the fuel pick-up in the tank, or worse, if the sock is gone/deteroirated taking that gunk up to the fuel pump or the carburetor.

Pfiffle

Oh Boy! Didn't think that the sock may be gone. Good thought. Better drop the tank, you think?

88 coupe

Or you can do a couple of, zero to the speed limit, on ramp entrances at WOT.

From elsewhere, on the same site: http://toptiergas.com/retailers.html

From: http://www.usatoday.com/money/indust...terstitialskip

The "placebo" effect applies.

Norm

88 coupe

What problem?

Or simply changed the oil and filter.

Only from a maintenance standpoint.

I understand it's a good "fuel stabilizer" for the off season.

Norm

Pfiffle

OK, thanks for all the help everyone.

Joeypete

I've used it a few times and it seems to work pretty well. Both engines ran better. It IS supposed to produce white smoke after you let it sit for a few minutes. Depending on the build up, you may smoke a lot, or a little. Both cars I used it on had carbs and I just slowly poured it down the throat (while revving the engine slightly)...then you dump a good amount down so that it stalls...let it sit for say 10-15 minutes and start it up.

My442

The best stuff to pour down the carb is GM Top Engine Cleaner.

Techron works best in the gas.

Joeypete

Cool, I didn't realize that GM still made that stuff...good to know!

slumpy

ive used sea foam quite a bit, but never really saw a difference either way with or without it, i just like using the stuff, makes me think im doing some preventitive maintinance or something, but i do know the stuff is getting expensive.

mugzilla

blow compressed are back up the fuel line ...

After you do this check your fuel filter a couple three times and look for particulate ...

mugzilla

Oh yeh ...

I like water for cylinder decarb ...