When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
When I'm rolling up the driver side door window on my '72 Supreme, it makes a really loud squeaking or "howling' sound. I've lubed the entire mechanism, but that didn't help. I'm thinking it's the rubber seal along the top of the door rubbing on the glass causing a vibration and resonating through the glass. Any advice?
Could be the inner or outer sweep, could be the guide flaps near the top of the door. Those flaps have a fabric velcro-like (the loop side of velcro - not the hook side!) covering that deteriorates. It's tough to find the correct replacement stuff - I eventually found it, but can't remember where.
You can just adjust everything to give the window more room. The flaps mounted to the top inside of the door can be moved in/out, and you can move the inner sweep by moving the mounts for the door panel.
Window sweeps could be at the right hardness to do it. Maybe wipe them down with some WD-40. Or you could back off the tension on the anti rattle strips in the door a little so there's not as much tension pushing the window onto the outer sweep on the way up.
For your issue, my suggestion differs from Koda's suggestion - significantly.
I have electric windows, and many have removed door panels and are familiar with the innards (mechanisms) contained w/in the housing of the door which stores your window mechanisms. In a nutshell, I would (and I do) spray the living bejeezers out of all mechanisms as much as possible. Grab at least one can of CRC Heavy Duty Silicone, insert the long wand into the door panel on one side of the glass with the window UP (or as close to UP as you can get while still being to jam that wand downwards). Moving from front to back spray vigorously. Perform the same operation on the opposite side of the window. During each spray maneuver, between spraying and throughout spraying (e.g. whenever you can and the more often the better), operate the window through its full range. Perform the same operation with the window rolled down.
Regarding WD-40. There are two WD-40 products listed as silicone lubricants both are WD-40 Specialist Silicone (one is quick drying). RV-care Slide Out Silicone Lube is IDENTICAL to the above mentioned WD-40 Specialist Silicone (the name is the only item which is different - e.g. the label). This product is manufactured by WD-40.
IMO, the 100% best silicone lubricant is a silicone lubricant which is derived from a liquid petroleum "gas" and is incorporated into gaseous solute with a small amount of Naptha. CRC Heavy Duty Silicone is the best product by far, IMO. It isn't inexpensive, but it's the best spray silicone lubricant on the market.
Peruse the MSDS sheets for each product to make an informed decision. RV-care Slide Out Silicone Lube is INDENTICAL to WD-40 Specialist Silicone and they're both made by WD-40.
This all sounds good, but if you spray the area between the glass and the rubber strip, what keeps the silicone from smearing up the window? Seems to me it would make a gnarly mess...
You clean the glass when you're done as you would for most projects. I may have mistakenly thought the point of this discussion was a "noise" - not the cleanliness of the glass.
Duh...I wasn't thinking that far ahead...lol. So I'm guessing once you clean the glass the residue from the silicone won't smudge the glass anymore 🤔
I'm an engineer, not a scientist. This is why many of my solutions involve "leave it alone" or "do this to start" because I deal with existing systems, and clean-up time and unintended consequences are a thing. I have maintenance guys that are the "use the full tube of grease" people. I suppose I should have specified WD-40 as in the original product. I don't routinely think of WD-40 as a company that makes things that are not WD-40. To clarify my point, it's similar to what Norm said without the chemistry; you don't want something that will dry out and be worse than nothing in the first place. Fortunately, there's no heat involved. I've seen WD-40 used in some heat applications that were awful, like large wattage lighting applications with shutters and irises. That was a bad day.
Yes, if you want more silicone with less petroleum distillates - I have already reviewed this product (Post #9). If you happen to notice changes in price - DO NOT be alarmed. There exists (evidently) a large nationwide (global?) sale of this CRC product through many vendors. I purchased four 11 oz. cans of the CRC product last week from Amazon. Both of the CRC products ingredients are identical even though they have different Product numbers - most likely the result of the container in which they are packaged.
The product numbers differ & it appears the only reason the product numbers differ is the container. Why is there a LARGE price reduction in this product and maybe a disparity in the pricing of the two products (which are 100% identical)? I cannot explain. It may very well be a HUGE overstock of the product itself, a HUGE overstock of one product type of container versus the other, or the momentum on the global banning of naphtha. Who knows.
CRC Product 05174 CRC Product 05074
Thanks Norm...I'm gonna scoop up a can from Wally World tomorrow on my way to work (and I'm taking the Cutlass) 😀
Just for the heck of it, I tried the PB blaster silicone spray, and no luck. In fact, I think it's actually worse, so I'm gonna try the CRC...hopefully that'll do the trick.
There is no issue with continually applying additional applications. You should experience extremely limited residue if any at all with the CRC product. I will point out for you again, this products silicone carriers are acetone and liquified petroleum gas. This allows this product to carry & apply silicone as the lubricant while providing rapid and nearly complete evaporation of any residue. Apply it liberally.
So should I just spray it again and leave it without operating the window?
Hard black rubber depending on the compound SOMETIMES can be rejuvenated with regular petroleum jelly. Not used as a lube but as a softener for the rubber itself. I have use it in the antique gun restoration business and other cracked rubber parts on a few occasions with good results. The price is right, takes a day or so to work, you might give it a try, little to lose....Tedd
Yes sir..matter of fact,, I checked this past Wednesday and it's noise free without doing another "treatment ."
That's fantastic. I sprayed all of my windows and as much of the internal mechanisms (with CDC, of course) as possible through what I'll call "weep holes" (areas available to the wand's protrusion) and anywhere you can get the red wand to spray. I have electric windows so its modestly more important to keep things well lubricated w/ silicone since raising a window takes far more current than lowering a window. I ran each through about 10-12 cycles, kept spraying, repeat, etc. Today I was cleaning the windows & wondering how you ended up.
February 3rd, 2021, 05:14 AM
