viper771

Well the carb didn't leak at all. I was pretty impressed I do have a few questions though.

1. What opens the secondaries? When I took the carb apart, everything moved around in the throttle plate. Once I had it all back together, even with the choke cam out of the way... the secondarys won't move at all. Not sure what is blocking it or if I am missing something.

2. I have the curb idle screw backed all the way out. It seems to be the only way to get the lower RPM that is required.. but still isn't low enough. Service manual says it needs to be around 500 rpm with trans in drive. I hooked my timing light up (shows RPM too) and I am still getting around 700 RPM-800 RPM. Turning out (riching) the idle mixture screws just makes the RPM go up (as they should). The choke is set at the index at this point.

3. I torqued down the thermostat housing (saw that it was leaking)...then I had coolant leaking from one of the heater core hoses (made the clamp tight)...so now I have some coolant leaking from a bolt at the front right bolt on the pass side of the intake (near the thermostat). The rad cap is brand new (15 lb)... so I wonder if I have some buildup causing my overheating??? I saw that the intake was removed in more recent years. It still has a steel shim under it, but it also has some of that black sealant too.

4. It is taking me forever to make the carb adjustments. I am not sure if I should make sure the timining is right first ( noticed that my timing light said the dwell was at 40 degress), or try to get the idle right or what.. I accidently bent the idle stop solenoid adjustment screw when I was trying to clamp it. So I will need to get another one and figured out how to mess with the idle with that in place (and clamped as per SM). Right now I just capped the Vac T coming from the throttle plate.

5. After I messed up my idle stop solenoid (and capped off the vac line that went to it), I noticed a kind of loud hissing noise coming from the engine. I am not sure if it was always there, if it was normal, or that I just didn't notice it as much when I was busy trying to adjust things. If it is normal.. that is just one less thing to worry about lol. I was thinking that if there was a leak somewhere (say between the intake and block), would that cause my idle to be higher than normal?

Keep in mind that I can't drive the car anywhere (not plated) so I am doing everything that I can while it is in the garage. So far things don't seem to be working out in my favor LOL. There are only 2 screws on the linkage to adjust anything (fast idle cam screw and curb idle screw).I am trying to follow everything in the SM, just kind of hard sometimes when you don't have the special tools or something equal to them. So any info you guys can pass along would be awesome. Hopefully I am doing everything right.

viper771

I am going to see if I can do some adjustments later. Maybe I have a vac leak somewhere that is causing some problems. Hopefully.... I can get some of this stuff solved. I can see why people didn't like the 4GC so much.

Don R.

See above bold notes - the fact the car runs, carb doesn't leak, and you have an idle less than 1000 rpm means you did a pretty good job! But you have to make sure all systems are go, proper ignition settings, timing, no vacuum leaks, etc. before you can do a final carb adjust. I had major vacuum problems with mine, if in doubt remove and plug all vacuum hoses connected to the engine and see if it runs better. Then replace the hoses one at a time until you find the one (or more) that mess it up. Don't blame the 4GC until you're sure everything else is OK.

viper771

Thanks for the info Don!! I actually thought of plugging the vac lines as you said (great minds think alike as they say). I did replaced them all...but that doesn't mean I didn't cut one open by accident as I passed it through the firewall. But I will check that out for sure.

The louder hissing sound could be an intake leak or vac leak. I hope I didn't cause it, but it could have always been there (would explain a few things). Going to spray carb cleaner around the intake or soapy water around the areas to see if it gets sucked up anywhere. I will figure that one out.

I didn't remove any linkage that goes to the secondaries except the main assy that has the TV cable and throttle cable. I will take some pictures too. Not sure if anything was missing when I got the car, or if the return springs were put on wrong, etc etc. Someone redid the carb before I got it so it is hard to say if things were put back right.

How hard is it to put on a new intake gasket? I read somewhere that steel shims were used.. should I try to get some orig stuff or just buy a new engine gasket set? I REALLY hope the head gaskets didn't rupture or something

I was surprised myself that things actually worked pretty well when I got the carb back on!!! Thanks for the info. I will report back and see if I can fix some of these issues.

Don R.

viper771

Thanks for the info and picts Don! After looking at your pictures, why is the one vac line to the rear of your carb capped off? I have a metal line from my fuel pump going to this area. Can't remember if the 63 fuel pumps were the same or not. I also noticed that you have a check valve on the line that goes to your dash pot. Is that necessary? I have to get a new one since I kind of messed mine up

Here are a few picts I took of my carb before I pulled it off for the rebuild. I think everything looks the same linkage wise. My adjustments for the choke now look a lot like your choke plate. Before, my choke plate was totally closed.

I will try the carb cleaner stuff either day or over the weekend. I can deal with a blown intake gasket. I was thinking that the orig. gaskets were these thin steel shims and some sealer was used. I could be thinking of head gaskets. I have read so many things about these cars on so many different forms I can't keep my findings straight sometimes lol. We shall see what happens after I cap off the vac lines going to the heater system and vac advance. Wish me luck

Don R.

The capped off vacuum line goes to the pcv valve, the 63 does not have the fuel pump vacuum line. Not sure about the check valve.

viper771

I am not sure what that steel fuel pump line does since it just goes from the fuel pump to the rear of the carb. The actual rubber vac line is in another location on the fuel pump and goes to my heater stuff.

Thanks for the info!! Every little bit helps!

Don R.

You must have a dual action fuel pump that include a vacuum pump function, cars with vacuum wipers used to have those.

Rickman48

And I hope you're disconnecting and plugging the vacuum advance line while setting the timing!
I usually 'kill two birds with one stone' by plugging in my vacuum guage to that port.

viper771

I don't have a vac gauge...but how much vac should I have? I need to get one and also need a compression tester.

As for my fuel pump, don't the 63 heater controls run off of the vac still??? If they don't... then that prob explains why the 63 pump is different. Come to think of it, I think the listing for the fuel pumps in the Fusick catalogue had a different fuel pump after 62.

I can't really set the timing if I have intake leaks and the carb adjusted a bit better. had a big animal emergency yesterday so I haven't had time to go back to mess with the car.