69CSHC

Ughh, you know I wanted to test this car right after the manual steering swap, with nothing else altered so badly. The goal was to hit that simulation ideal for a base version of my car as was.

But there was no way to go back to the track without replacing timing chain etc once that seed was planted i had to address it for peace of mind.

So I take it the fact that the engine sped up 50 rpm ( confirmed via tach after several hundred miles and in all driving conditions ) could actually hurt me in the conditions i tested in ? Im guessing that the new timing kit in essence advanced my timing ? I took the gain as a net positive and a clear indicator that the car benefited from the new timing chain kit. Did not really consider that it could actually be a negative ? all else left the same ?

69CSHC

Swapping the cam at the same time as the timing chain made total sense and is a big time might as well. But that would defeat my goal of trying to run an ideal pass stock engine... Its not the next move in my pecking order either. Want a 3.42 limited slip before i go there... But eventually i can see a cam swap happening. Just want to kind of wring out every major move.

Yes i really want to get that TCI Saturday night special installed, thinking it will really help chop my 60 ft down. I cannot load up on the line once the tires lathered in track bite. Very hard to hold it from creeping through the beams and killing the pass. My best numbers come via a dead punch after a healthy warm-up. I'm hoping the new converter will do its thing with a dead punch ?

The transmission is shifting at 5200-5400 not me, that's factory. I have never manually shifted the car to a quicker pass than the transmission has. So i don't bother, tried for years. All my 15 second passes at all 3 tracks were the trans shifting itself. All Atco passes are trans shifting itself.


I have tried a manual shift up to 5500 over the years my car did not like it either. Again the transmission shifts itself best, many passes confirmed it. I totally stopped even trying to shift once i started running at Atco. With that said do you think the trans is shifting itself on the high side ? and i mean with regards to factory calibration not vs power-band ? It is after all 50 years old with 122,000 + miles and never rebuilt to my knowledge... Maybe the trans is holding me back somewhat ? Shift points have seemed to fluctuate over the years from about 4800 - 5400 ( would have to look at notes to confirm ) but keep in mind its an analog tach, relatively new yes although somewhat difficult to read at higher rpm. That needle gets real jittery when the engine in revving high.

The manual steering swap is great, but I learned to drive that way and my first car was a 67 Olds that came that way from factory, drove it for parts of 3 decades. With regards to stripping options, my 69 became a toy to me right after it was totaled while parked. So all those creature comforts like the ac that no longer worked went bye bye. No regrets. My 67 was all stock drum and drum with no assist, manual trans, no ac, manual steering, one belt. But it had a V8 (330) and it hauled ***. That to me is an ideal setup for Olds.

As far as gains, she never hit or exceeded 89 mph in the 1/4 till the ac came off... Haven't been able to really run the car all out since the manual steering swap, but i'm fairly certain once the kinks are sorted out it will complete a all time best.

As far as my 350 being less than an ideal power-plant i hear you. But 240 hp net ain't bad IMHO, about the same or somewhat more than cars that have run quicker with similar weight So the way i see it my go package is whats really holding it back as of now. Time will tell if my theory is correct...

For example Car & Drivers 1972 Plymouth Barracuda 340ci/240hp net, 4spd, 3.55, 0-60 - 6.9, 1/4 mile - 15.50 @ 91.70 mph. It's base curb is only about 100 lbs less than my 69s base curb 3428 lbs vs 3534 lbs. So weights not really the difference it has to be setup. I matched that ET because of a great modern track and tires etc. But i really want that 2-3 mph more that the cuda is showing... This cuda is probably 14's with today's benefits.

With regards to what you have done to increase your cars performance, much appreciated info. I just want get that ultimate baseline before i go there.

PS my cars baseline as I have tested with all options installed ac, power steering, 3 belts, including factory air cleaner housing is 15.9 @ 88.84 at almost 4000 lbs but the baseline i really want to see is with base options, or as close as i can get.

GEARMAN69

[/QUOTE]
A)1969 W31 4speed manual- 14.5- @ 97.2- mph 3650 lbs curb
B)1970 W31 3speed auto--- 14.75 @ 95.44 mph 3680 lbs test
C)1969 W31 3speed auto--- 14.9- @ 96.0- mph 3640 lbs curb
D)1970 Rallye 350 4sp man 15.27 @ 94.33 mph unknown + 2 passengers
E)1970 Rallye 350 3sp man 15.4- @ 89--- mph 3500 lbs (unknown)
F)1968 F85 BO7 4speed man 15.5- @ 93.07 mph 3500 lbs test
[/QUOTE]

Rallye 350 as my comparison of same 1970 310 HP 350 engine in my Cutlass Cruiser wagon performance that is a automatic TH350 3.08 Anti-Spin
except my wagon is 4435# with me in it as per NHRA scales last weekend at Texas Motorplex.
My best time is 15.1@90 2 years ago with original carburetor and on SSII wheels 225/70R14 Cooper Cobras.
Went 15.3 last weekend and now has HEI and a 403 800 Q-jet that gets a hell of a lot better MPG.
My engine is #'s match original rebuilt and correct style ( 68-70 )10.25:1 type 030 cast NOS badger pistons and deck was not touched and using thick head gasket .040+ so my compression is lower than original.
The heads have zero porting nor does intake and stock small valves , stock valve job just rebuilt and only springs upgraded but did convert to adjustable rockers (1.6 SBF Windsor roller tip cheap ones)
Only real HP bump is I did headers (but stock heads) and small cam was a generic PDQ-Erson 214/224 @050 112 LSA I just thru it in ADV 4 on a roller chain since its a heavy and tall geared.

Works good IMO for a bunch heavier and less gear than Rallye.

To compare the heavier 68 Vista Cruiser road test that was loaded 390HP 455 and 3.42 Ant-Spin killer optioned went a quite awesome 14.7@94 in I think Motor Trend

VORTECPRO

A)1969 W31 4speed manual- 14.5- @ 97.2- mph 3650 lbs curb
B)1970 W31 3speed auto--- 14.75 @ 95.44 mph 3680 lbs test
C)1969 W31 3speed auto--- 14.9- @ 96.0- mph 3640 lbs curb
D)1970 Rallye 350 4sp man 15.27 @ 94.33 mph unknown + 2 passengers
E)1970 Rallye 350 3sp man 15.4- @ 89--- mph 3500 lbs (unknown)
F)1968 F85 BO7 4speed man 15.5- @ 93.07 mph 3500 lbs test
[/QUOTE]

Rallye 350 as my comparison of same 1970 310 HP 350 engine in my Cutlass Cruiser wagon performance that is a automatic TH350 3.08 Anti-Spin
except my wagon is 4435# with me in it as per NHRA scales last weekend at Texas Motorplex.
My best time is 15.1@90 2 years ago with original carburetor and on SSII wheels 225/70R14 Cooper Cobras.
Went 15.3 last weekend and now has HEI and a 403 800 Q-jet that gets a hell of a lot better MPG.
My engine is #'s match original rebuilt and correct style ( 68-70 )10.25:1 type 030 cast NOS badger pistons and deck was not touched and using thick head gasket .040+ so my compression is lower than original.
The heads have zero porting nor does intake and stock small valves , stock valve job just rebuilt and only springs upgraded but did convert to adjustable rockers (1.6 SBF Windsor roller tip cheap ones)
Only real HP bump is I did headers (but stock heads) and small cam was a generic PDQ-Erson 214/224 @050 112 LSA I just thru it in ADV 4 on a roller chain since its a heavy and tall geared.

Works good IMO for a bunch heavier and less gear than Rallye.

To compare the heavier 68 Vista Cruiser road test that was loaded 390HP 455 and 3.42 Ant-Spin killer optioned went a quite awesome 14.7@94 in I think Motor Trend[/QUOTE]

So your racing Texas Muscle Car Club Challenge?

wr1970

So are you against suspension up grades? Those front springs are not helping you! Get some quick release trick springs for better weight transfer. What about shocks? I agree get some cutouts installed. Add that 342 rearend with a posi. Good luck with all you are doing.

GEARMAN69

So your racing Texas Muscle Car Club Challenge?[/QUOTE]


Yes sir, bracket race and last year switched class in points so I can bring different cars and use same numbers for anything 7.25 or slower in 1/8 allows me to run the 7 second Catalina, 8 second C10 or 9 second wagon (used to run 12.5/ 7.9 w Pont 455)

VORTECPRO

We missed the last race getting our dyno running, plan to race that series.

69CSHC

Great performance, quicker than me on both ends. While weighing about 600 lbs more. And my best pass was in phenomenal weather, at a very fast track. You'd probably run 14s at Atco in similar conditions.

Good stuff, thanks so much for this post.

Not necessarily against suspension upgrades. Did have some front end work done over the pandemic pause. New front springs, new center link, etc.

Thanks for the advice.


P.S. guys thanks again for posting and sorry for not responding sooner. The pandemic pause took the wind from my sails so to speak. Haven't gotten to the track in years. Nor had the oomph to get her to run quicker... leading me to somewhat overlook this thread.

olds 307 and 403

Yeah it screwed everyone in one way or another. Glad you still have the car, hoping to put the 358 and SEFI this Winter, TKX 5 speed and 3.08 posi next year. Hope to hit a track within the next 5 years, realistically.

69CSHC

Sounds good olds 307 and 403, looking forward to hearing about your results. And thank you for the support.

My 69 is still running healthy, recently cracked 135,000 miles (got her with 103,000). Still rips on wide open throttle. This is my 10th year of ownership. Body is in need of tlc among other things. Hopefully get her some much needed attention soon. Since covid, now Atco is gone as well as Englishtown, down to Island Dragway as far as what's relatively close to me.

olds 307 and 403

Yeah, Saskatoon 4 hours away is the closest drag strip to me. One of the reasons it needs to be a long distance cruiser. I have the SEFI up and running, it needs to proper TPS and the right tune. I will get the 3.08 and posi in next Winter. The 5 spd will take over a year, it takes a lot our funny money to equal US dollars. Glad your car is running strong.