Cant figure out why 307 wont start
#44
The distributor installation and wire installation isn't complicated IF it is done one step at a time in the exact correct order. Don't look at the big picture, focus on one step, check it off and then do the next step. If one step is off it won't work.
If you don't understand a step ask, we will walk you through it one step at a time.
If you don't understand a step ask, we will walk you through it one step at a time.
#47
Put a pointer on #1 at the cap and send a pic of it going to the pass front cylinder.. Going counter clockwise looking down at the distributor cap the wire after #1 goes to cylinder 8 (the back cylinder on pass side), then 4, 3, 6, 5, 7 and 2..
The cylinders on the driver's side are 1, 3, 5 & 7 from front to rear.
The cylinders on the pass side are 2, 4, 6, & 8 front to rear
The cylinders on the driver's side are 1, 3, 5 & 7 from front to rear.
The cylinders on the pass side are 2, 4, 6, & 8 front to rear
#48
#51
#54
#55
The top blue box shows the coil ground that is supposed to be in the distributor cap, if you didnt install another, then this is part of your issue.
The bottom box shows the location that the #1 cylinder should be located(depending on year), if you follow the counter clockwise firing order, your #2 wire is going to the wrong side of the motor. That means the wire connected to the #2 sparkplug isnt attached correctly at the cap
#57
Confirm that the gauge is good, check one cylinder on a good running engine. Your timing chain may have jumped a tooth.
FWIW, I've encountered two bad compression testers so it does happen. One was a cheapie so no surprise, the other was an expensive high end professional gauge and it was way off.
FWIW, I've encountered two bad compression testers so it does happen. One was a cheapie so no surprise, the other was an expensive high end professional gauge and it was way off.
Last edited by Sugar Bear; February 6th, 2024 at 04:53 PM.
#58
75psi - 80psi is borderline getting an engine to start & remain running. If you validate the compression gauge works as designed & your compression readings are between 80psi - 95psi on all cylinders you'll need a complete engine tear-down & repair - plan accordingly.
#60
#61
If you want to take this one step further in diagnostics, perform a leak-down test.
If you get a marked difference between dry compression & wet compression it likely points to rings.
If you get no marked difference between dry compression & wet compression, a leak-down test will help to further address likely suspects other than rings e.g. valves, valve guides, etc.
If you get a marked difference between dry compression & wet compression it likely points to rings.
If you get no marked difference between dry compression & wet compression, a leak-down test will help to further address likely suspects other than rings e.g. valves, valve guides, etc.
#64
That engine has been sitting a long time and even though it started and ran for a moment, it has been a couple weeks since that happened. Your engine is dry! Spray some penetrating oil into the cylinders and let it soak a while to loosen up the rings, then give each one another squirt before the compression test. You may get some life out of the engine without a tear down. It won't run like new, but maybe have some life left in it.
Try turning the engine backwards by hand with the distributor cap off to see how far it moves before the distributor turns. Anything more than just a few degrees means the timing chain is too loose.
Try turning the engine backwards by hand with the distributor cap off to see how far it moves before the distributor turns. Anything more than just a few degrees means the timing chain is too loose.
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