When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Picture with new seats and valve guides. Head work by Marty Zimmermann. Bill put in Beryllium seats in. Bill T "Heads done with some expensive/long lasting no rust valve seats. New 5/16 solid bronze guides. Ordered some mock up valves so I can get the exact length ordered". I think, Beryllium seats keeps the valve cooler.
Honda rod journal. Lightweight quality Molnar rods. Crank is built, Bill needs the get all the weights of rods and pistons. For Bryant crank to in-house balance. Bill using a CP custom piston.
Cam, I guess he will decide with the mock up valves. And square block. And hopefully a few cam choices.
I am going to terrorizes a lot of chevy, ford and dodge guys on the street. School them on how Lighting Rods in the hands of a guy with 38 years experience using them. Approx 650 HP and add a shot of 150 NOS.
As mentioned to me on another site. " Make sure Bill gets it up to temp before making the power pull. You wouldn't want a bunch of dyno queens crying"
I say **** all the dyno queens! Especially the one with names in all capital letters!
Last edited by HighwayStar 442; August 18th, 2022 at 09:23 AM.
Was not at first. Sick of the Queen of Trolls! But changed my mind. My new 84 Hurst/ Olds back in 1984
I have every intention of sticking to my guns on that. It sucks for others but I’m really tired of the drama. I’ll post pics like others do, but that’s it.
Nice ride by the way.
Thanks.
Most of us love Oldsmobile and their unique, durable, torque happy V8. I could have found a 6L LS and boosted it for way cheaper. I hate them in trucks, why would I want one? There is just a big pissing contest going on in the other forum. We will just keep driving our Olds powered cars for our enjoyment.
Looking forward to seeing how much power this makes.
Yes! Queen of the TROLLS. Troll my thread. So you can put your 2 cents in. But the dyno sheet will never meet your demands. Because only you, are the Queen of the Dyno.
Your right about one thing.......I will be adding my 2 cents if this ever gets done, but my comments might not be what your expecting.
if this ever gets done???. The man has the block and heads, many parts ordered and in shop. Billed me invoices and been payed. Bill is even excited about me giving him free range to do what he wants.
Always the Queen of Dick. .Great Oldsmobile engine builders on here, would have not gone around and around. To get a mess-up old Mondello engine working great. Maybe you learned a few things about Oldsmobile. engine. Your 2 cents is meaningless to me. Unless its a chevyLSX,.maybe.
Bryant crankshaft is ready. Light, strong and balanced by Bryant.
Morel Ultra Pro .937 roller lifters are in.
PAC 1243-16 circle track valve springs
PAC Ti retainers R436-16
PAC valve spring locators S119-16
PAC locks L8067-16
Ferrea stainless intake valves 2.150 x 5.150 x 5/16 x .290 x rad
Ferrea stainless exhaust valves 1.640 x 5.170 x 5/16 x .290 x rad
Custom CP Pistons 4.155 bore #460452
Molnar connecting rods 6.125 x honda RJ x .927
Parts coming together.
Comp Cams custom hyd roller 243/247/108 cam lobe lift .392 / .396 multiply lobe lift by rocker ratio which Bill haven't determined yet but probably 1.75 or 1.8. .686 or .705.
I think it will have more power at the top end. And a little less at the bottom. Compared to the first cam he wanted in use. It maybe better for me, by not spinning the tires early. Lighting Rods will let me control the top end shifts. To take full advantage. I must admit, I do not understand completely, cam specs. And how it affects the engine.
Well I got Bill to go with the New Edelbrock VRS-4150 Carburetor 950 cfm. Has one on order for me. I wanted that one after seeing the write up's on it. Taking a chance and will be the test dummy. Here is a great video on the this carburetor, but it only 650 cfm. But my gut tells me it's the right one. Spacers for the crankshaft are slow in coming. Bill wants to attached them differently. But has not yet come up with the way to do that yet.
Sight change Comp Cam .698 lift on intake and exhaust. Just call it .700 lift on T&D rockers 1.75. Heads at T&D being fitted on heads. 245/ 251/108 lobe separation.
Making a trip to the east coast and north east to see friend and relatives. In May, work on picking up engine and seeing it on the dyno.
Drivability for that carb is going to be more about the skill of the tuner than the carb itself. Just about every possible adjustment is included in that thing. Getting it spot-on for your engine just takes time (and skill). I set up a Brawler carb with pretty much the same set of features by using other parts and making modifications. Never could resolve fuel boiling out of the front accelerator pump though. That made it stumble from a stop any time it was hot and I had sat at a light for more than thirty seconds or so. Other than that it was pretty fantastic.
Get a full jet kit and get a *lot* of 0.028" air bleeds and a set of mini drill bits. I made a little plate, drilled and tapped a bunch of holes in it. Use that to hand-drill bleeds to different sizes.
Definitely need a vacuum gauge and O2 sensor in the car. You'll need to know when the carb is transitioning between the different circuits so you can make the right adjustments. There's very little information about tuning a 3 circuit carb, and even less for a 4 circuit. Good thing is it's fun experimentation, but many changes require dropping the metering block.
Bill will get it set up for WOT, but you'll have to figure out the rest on your car.
Based on the cam selection, I guess you decided against an 8000 rpm build.
I was hoping to see you wind it really tight.
Not a master of understanding cams, by a long shot. Bill and I are on the page. On the 8,000+ rpm. I did ask for the power of the cam to come in higher rpm. For me it maybe a vain attempt to have the car moving, before the real power kicks in. Hopefully not breaking things on the car. Like a drag car can off the line. Also the first engine in my car was like that. Get to a higher rpm, and take off like a screaming bitch. Loved It! Being a short stroke engine makes a differences?
The HUC Series Hydraulic Rollers are very smooth designs intended for high RPM use with heavy valves. These are very similar to the Xtreme Marine high lift lobe series, but may be slightly more stable.
240/248 108+3 28 degrees of overlap biased toward the intake - monster cam that produces explosive topend
The HUC Series Hydraulic Rollers are very smooth. Not sure what I am missing.
Lift is only a small part of cam choice.
For reference I just did a SBO 428 inch Stroker with CNC’d Speedmasters and a 242/249@.050 Hyd roller on a 109 with .625/.620 lift. It peaked at 6100 with a decent Victor and 850. Yours may spin to 8k but it doesn’t mean it’ll still be making power there. In order to do that you need something well into to 250’s+@050.
Just sayin.
Lift is only a small part of cam choice.
For reference I just did a SBO 428 inch Stroker with CNC’d Speedmasters and a 242/249@.050 Hyd roller on a 109 with .625/.620 lift. It peaked at 6100 with a decent Victor and 850. Yours may spin to 8k but it doesn’t mean it’ll still be making power there. In order to do that you need something well into to 250’s+@050.
Just sayin.
I found out @ a young age that just because an engine will turn RPM's doesn't mean it's making power there.
I am a novice. Sent email to Bill. I do want the curve for my engine to look like this. Only better. All the right parts are going in for a stable valve train.
August 18th, 2022, 09:07 AM
You and I must have gone to the same "school".
