joe_padavano

In response to some requests, I've compiled a list of the Kent-Moore special tools needed for rebuilding a 200-4R. The CK Performance book will tell you that you don't need any of these, and provides alternatives (like the long-nose vice grips with hose over the jaws). Yeah, you can make those work, and there are others on the interwebs who are proud of their half-fast ways to get around these tools. At my age, I'm too old for that crap, and frankly, a lot of this stuff is on ebay now at reasonable prices. There are also aftermarket versions of a lot of these available for less money. I'm kind of a specialty tool collector anyway, and I was able to grab a lot of these when the GM dealerships all went out of business a decade or so ago. In any case, I've tried to list those tools that I feel are required, those that are nice to have, and those that you really don't need. I did not bother to list any of the seal installation tools because you really don't need those. I just use an appropriately-sized socket or piece of pipe.

R = required tools
N = nice to have tools
B = only needed if you plan to replace the bushings

The rest are not required and I didn't use them.

Some notes on the list:

• The seal protectors are nice if you can get them cheap, but I didn't use them for my rebuild. A couple of the piston seals took a bit of finesse to get the pistons in place without damaging the seals. The protectors would have made that a lot easier.
• The trans holding fixture (J-8763) is the C-shaped tool that fits all GM transmissions. This is REALLY nice to have, but not mandatory. There are aftermarket versions available also. It fits most GM automatics, so if you ever plan to build another one, you'll use this again. I mounted the base holder for it on an engine stand, which makes it easy to wheel the trans around the shop as needed.
• The clutch spring compressors are also nice if you can get them cheap. I didn't have any of them and just used C-clamps to compress the clutch pack springs to get the snap rings off and on. That was a little half-fast, and there were times when I came close to launching parts across the shop.
• The bushing tools are only needed if you plan to replace the bushings. I always do that on my builds, but the reality is that the old bushings looked perfectly fine. Your call. I have most of these bushing tools, but not all of them, and those few bushings were sometimes a challenge to get out without the right tools. It really pays to have the correct driver to install them because some of the bushings need to be driven a very specific distance into the hole, and the driver has a stop that makes that automatic. If you try to do it with a generic driver set, you need to be sure to carefully measure the depth of the old bushing before you pull it out and install the new one at the same depth.
• The band apply gauge isn't really needed, but if you get it cheap it's nice to have. The CK book has a way to set that without the tool.
• The J-8001 dial indicator set is used to check end play. This is a Starrett 196 dial indicator. I got one because it's also used for setting up rear ends. You can use the end play method in the CK book. I did that, but when I double checked with the dial indicator I got a different clearance. It probably wouldn't have mattered, but I went back and changed the selective washers to get the correct end play.
• The oil pump alignment band is just a big hose clamp. I simply put the two halves of the pump into the empty case to align them before torquing the bolts.

69OldZman

Great reference, thank you Joe!

joe_padavano

I'll add that one other tool that makes life MUCH easier is this style of snap ring tool for the large external snap rings. I got the Knipex 45-10-170. It was money well spent. Again, you can do it without one of these, but you'll waste a lot of time getting those rings off and on.