1972 cutlass taillights wireing
March 13th, 2015, 11:47 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: austin texas
Posts: 6
1972 cutlass taillights wireing
my dad gave me a 1972 cutlass for my first car. ive working on it to get it street legal. my major problems with the car is it had a old aftermarket alarm wich the owners before me lost the remote so i had to take out the alarm after i did that everything was working fine but after the on the 3rd drive the whole blinker and tail lights system quite working i think i have a short some were but im not to sure were at ive tried to strip the interior but the owner before me welded the seats down. so i dont know how to stripe the interior. i got a compleat wiring diagram for chirstmas but im not sure how to read it if yall can help me with that i would greatful. if i can learn i can trace all the wires to the arlarm and take it compleatle out. the outher problem is the owners be for me cut the horn line in the stiring wheel to stop the arlarm from beeping but they cut the wrong horn system LOL. the horn works but the horn botten on the stearing wheel is screwed and streeing wheels r going from 200$ to 450$ and i can bearly keep my 35$ a month phone on. and it has a LOT of rust ive got most of it under control but my roofpanle all the way to to the end of the fastback is screwed i might be able to fix the fastback but the roof panle is gone and those are going for 500$ on ebay so i cant aford one so i would appreicate any ideas on that.the last thing is the light socket on the tail lights the springs are bad they dont work unless i push them in i cant aford new ones or even used so i need some kind of trobleshooting on that. thnks so much for reading
PS: sorry for the spelling i have to hurry before launch is over.
PS: sorry for the spelling i have to hurry before launch is over.
March 13th, 2015, 05:14 PM
#2
Administrator
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Poteau, Ok
Posts: 40,624
First off you have to figure out how to remove the remainder of the alarm wiring and put it back stock. You need someone familiar with auto electrical to help you with this. There were so many different alarms out there. For your electrical socket springs, Ive used ball point pen springs to replace the bad ones with success. Be careful and find some that are close in diameter. You don't have to replace the steering wheel to fix your horn, there is a one wire contact under the steering wheel that works the horn. As for the rot, that's going to be a tough go, but there are other less expensive sources for sheet metal, including through here.
March 13th, 2015, 06:17 PM
#3
Connoisseur d'Junque
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
Eric's got you pretty much covered.
My advice would be, first, wait to post until you're not in a hurry.
Most of us here aren't young enough to make sense of all that.
Second, go in there slowly and patiently and remove every single wire from the alarm, and rejoin any wires that were cut.
Make all connections with solder, and insulate them with shrink tubing.
Solder and soldering irons can be had for $5-10 at yard sales and flea markets if you don't have one at home. If you don't know how to solder and Dad can't teach you, there are about a million tutorials on the interwebs.
It is a VERY good idea for you to get a real, original paper copy of the 1972 Olds Chassis Service Manual. They're constantly on eBay. If the $20-$30 is too much for you, then I think it's fair to ask your Dad to shell out for it, as it's really an integral part of the car.
Once you have that, you will see that it has very nice color wiring diagrams in it, and so as you mess with the wires, you can follow along on the diagram to get a sense of what's going on.
As far as reading the schematic, I'm not sure which one you have, so why not post an image of it here, and we can give you some pointers.
Next, why do you want to strip the interior? If you're planning on replacing it, be prepared for it to get expensive.
If you need to get the seats out, and Bozo the Prior Owner welded them in, then you've pretty much got to cut or grind them out. This will not be fun. The only thing less fun will be figuring out how to put them back in afterward.
We'll be able to answer questions about your horn better if you give us more details, but I agree with Eric that you shouldn't need a new steering wheel, UNLESS you've got one of the rare "rim blow" wheels, which I think were only available with tilt/tele.
Finally, as for the rust, Good luck with that.
Short of being a MIG virtuoso and welding in (expensive) replacement panels, there is no permanent cure for rust.
The best you can do is clean it up really well and fill it enthusiastically with Bondo or Gorilla Hair. From your description of the car, this sounds like an appropriate solution.
Post pictures so we can see what you're dealing with.
Welcome to ClassicOlds.
- Eric
My advice would be, first, wait to post until you're not in a hurry.
Most of us here aren't young enough to make sense of all that.
Second, go in there slowly and patiently and remove every single wire from the alarm, and rejoin any wires that were cut.
Make all connections with solder, and insulate them with shrink tubing.
Solder and soldering irons can be had for $5-10 at yard sales and flea markets if you don't have one at home. If you don't know how to solder and Dad can't teach you, there are about a million tutorials on the interwebs.
It is a VERY good idea for you to get a real, original paper copy of the 1972 Olds Chassis Service Manual. They're constantly on eBay. If the $20-$30 is too much for you, then I think it's fair to ask your Dad to shell out for it, as it's really an integral part of the car.
Once you have that, you will see that it has very nice color wiring diagrams in it, and so as you mess with the wires, you can follow along on the diagram to get a sense of what's going on.
As far as reading the schematic, I'm not sure which one you have, so why not post an image of it here, and we can give you some pointers.
Next, why do you want to strip the interior? If you're planning on replacing it, be prepared for it to get expensive.
If you need to get the seats out, and Bozo the Prior Owner welded them in, then you've pretty much got to cut or grind them out. This will not be fun. The only thing less fun will be figuring out how to put them back in afterward.
We'll be able to answer questions about your horn better if you give us more details, but I agree with Eric that you shouldn't need a new steering wheel, UNLESS you've got one of the rare "rim blow" wheels, which I think were only available with tilt/tele.
Finally, as for the rust, Good luck with that.
Short of being a MIG virtuoso and welding in (expensive) replacement panels, there is no permanent cure for rust.
The best you can do is clean it up really well and fill it enthusiastically with Bondo or Gorilla Hair. From your description of the car, this sounds like an appropriate solution.
Post pictures so we can see what you're dealing with.
Welcome to ClassicOlds.
- Eric
March 13th, 2015, 06:54 PM
#4
Like Eric and the other Eric said, wiring issues will require a systematic approach. Ripping the interior out to try and see the problem is not going to get you far. What have you done so far? Start with the basics. Blown Fuse, bad flasher? What tools do you have? You need to have a minimum of a test light. Preferably a multimeter with a voltmeter and an ohmmeter. You can buy a replacement light socket at most parts stores for about $10.00.. These guys can get you headed in the right direction but you need to get it a little more focused for them. Most of the time wiring issues are small problems like a bad ground. Not something you will see with your eyes. Good luck and welcome aboard.
March 16th, 2015, 10:32 AM
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: austin texas
Posts: 6
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SORRY I TOOK THEM IN HD im having to converet them into SD i have some more ill add later
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SORRY I TOOK THEM IN HD im having to converet them into SD i have some more ill add later
March 16th, 2015, 11:19 AM
#6
Connoisseur d'Junque
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
I would not classify that roof rust as "fixable" on that car.
On a very high-value car, then, yes, because it will be worth it afterward, but in your case, it would take WAAAAY too much time and effort to fix that.
Gorilla Hair and Bondo, and don't plan on keeping that car for more than a couple of years.
- Eric
On a very high-value car, then, yes, because it will be worth it afterward, but in your case, it would take WAAAAY too much time and effort to fix that.
Gorilla Hair and Bondo, and don't plan on keeping that car for more than a couple of years.
- Eric
April 21st, 2015, 01:27 PM
#9
72 Olds CS
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 6,657
if the sockets are just gummed up squirt them w wd40 and work the spring back and forth it will loosen it up....if that is not the case I know you can extract the assembly from the socket on the reverse lights the tailights might be the same. you need to release the wires fromt he plastic holders and then youo can thread them thru the sockets if they are the same as the reverse lights....
April 21st, 2015, 02:12 PM
#10
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Just a comment about the original post. If ALL your tail lights/rear blinkers, back up and tag light quit? I'd be checking the electrical connector on the left side of the trunk. There's a connector from the body harness that connects the rear harness clipped up just under the left side of the trunk opening. Check that for corrosion. Clean it with electrical contact cleaner, wiggle it in/out a few times and see if your light problem goes away. It's not likely all your bulbs crapped out at the same time. And make sure you're not using 1156 bulbs, they need the 1157's. Different configuration and function. They only go in one and seat properly way too.
Sorry to see all that rust. If it was a keeper car or has sentimental value there are replacement roof sections for it. Are you handy with welding and fitting?
Sorry to see all that rust. If it was a keeper car or has sentimental value there are replacement roof sections for it. Are you handy with welding and fitting?
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