Hey! Buying a 69 convertible cutlass and need some advice
#1
Hey! Buying a 69 convertible cutlass and need some advice
Hey all,
My first car was a 1976 Oldsmobile Omega 2 door with a 250? in it. I blew it up at the age of 16 by going 120 miles an hour for 30 minutes down In the new mexico desert. When I popped the hood the engine was on fire. Due to my foolishness, my parents sent it to the scrap yard.
Im a little older now and have slowed down a bit. Right now I'm looking at a 1969 Cutlass Convertible. I don't know what engine it has in it as I haven't met the person yet. I decoded it on a website and have been prowling around here and see so many with vast knowledge.
The Postwar Oldsmobile VIN Decoder 1946-1997
3 3 6 6 7 9 Z 136577
Year: 1969
Division: Oldsmobile
Series: Cutlass (V8)
Body: 2dr Convertible
Plant: Fremont, California
Serial Number: 136577
From my research here, it doesn't look like the nice 442 as I think the 442's have the 344 at the beginning of the vin, but I could be wrong.
Here are some pictures. It runs and drives, but needs brake work, a new top and likely a ton of PM before making it a looker. I like Patina and Might fix the bondo'd areas and just clear coat it and give it a new top.
Any suggestions, advice is greatly appreciated. Additionally, I'm wondering if its work 5k in the condition its in.
Thanks a ton in advance.
My first car was a 1976 Oldsmobile Omega 2 door with a 250? in it. I blew it up at the age of 16 by going 120 miles an hour for 30 minutes down In the new mexico desert. When I popped the hood the engine was on fire. Due to my foolishness, my parents sent it to the scrap yard.
Im a little older now and have slowed down a bit. Right now I'm looking at a 1969 Cutlass Convertible. I don't know what engine it has in it as I haven't met the person yet. I decoded it on a website and have been prowling around here and see so many with vast knowledge.
The Postwar Oldsmobile VIN Decoder 1946-1997
3 3 6 6 7 9 Z 136577
Year: 1969
Division: Oldsmobile
Series: Cutlass (V8)
Body: 2dr Convertible
Plant: Fremont, California
Serial Number: 136577
From my research here, it doesn't look like the nice 442 as I think the 442's have the 344 at the beginning of the vin, but I could be wrong.
Here are some pictures. It runs and drives, but needs brake work, a new top and likely a ton of PM before making it a looker. I like Patina and Might fix the bondo'd areas and just clear coat it and give it a new top.
Any suggestions, advice is greatly appreciated. Additionally, I'm wondering if its work 5k in the condition its in.
Thanks a ton in advance.
Last edited by Mikesta; February 5th, 2013 at 09:59 AM.
#2
From just those pics it would be hard to tell the value. With that top the interior and floor might be trashed. It looks like it has been hit behind the driver's door so check frame. It will need a total resteration before you are driving it. I'm thinking he is asking to much. I'm seeing 2-3000. I spent $5800 on a 71 convertible about 4 years ago. Much better shape: rebuilt engine and front end with a good top and interior. Bad was rust in fenders and rear quarters and trunk. Started driving it within a couple of days after purchase. Just went over it, now fixing it slowly and driving.
My .02 there are better cars for better money.
Larry
My .02 there are better cars for better money.
Larry
#4
Much appreciate your comments. 5k is too steep gotcha... maybe 2-3k from what you guys see. Do you guys see anything that may make this a potential rare car? It does have 4 on the floor and he thinks a 454, but we know thats chevy... perhaps he meant a 455?
#5
As someone who recently purchased a 69 convertible after 9 months of daily searching. I can promise you there are WAY better cars out there than that one at $5000.. patience and you'll find a better one
#6
Let's step back for a second. Is this going to be your first restoration? What is your skill set? Can you weld? Tear apart a moter and put it back together? This hobby is supposed to be fun. It is not fun if you get in way over your head and have to start writing checks that you can't afford or just getting so mad and fustrated that you just chuck the whole thing. DO NOT FALL IN LOVE WITH THE FIRST CAR YOU SEE! Most of us have looked for months if not years to find the right car. I am wondering if this might be to much of a project for you at this time.
Larry
Larry
#8
Run away
Just the rear missing trim is going to cost you $300-$500 extra. The missing wheel well moulding another $300-$400 (although that may have been an option in 69, that car still looks like crap without it). $1500 max if it's fairly solid.
Just the rear missing trim is going to cost you $300-$500 extra. The missing wheel well moulding another $300-$400 (although that may have been an option in 69, that car still looks like crap without it). $1500 max if it's fairly solid.
#9
Let's step back for a second. Is this going to be your first restoration? What is your skill set? Can you weld? Tear apart a moter and put it back together? This hobby is supposed to be fun. It is not fun if you get in way over your head and have to start writing checks that you can't afford or just getting so mad and fustrated that you just chuck the whole thing. DO NOT FALL IN LOVE WITH THE FIRST CAR YOU SEE! Most of us have looked for months if not years to find the right car. I am wondering if this might be to much of a project for you at this time.
Larry
Larry
I just don't know cutlass's and you guys and this site have given me a ton of insight into this car.
I hate the losing part, would hate to put too much money into this up front and 5k is too much right! Unless its got a muncie shifter, 455 etc?
Thanks!
#10
#11
Run away unless you want to strip here completely down and find more surprises. It might run and drive around the yard. By the time you fix that one you could buy one already done and ready to cruise. I agree $1500 max
#12
Welcome to the site.
For whatever it's worth, remember that the big block (455 or 400) was never installed in any '69 Cutlass by the factory. 442s got 400s, but regular Cutlii did not, so if there is a big block in the car, it is non-original and will not add to the car's value as a collectible.
While there were plenty of A-bodies that came down the line with 4-speeds, since this engine sounds like it was swapped, there is a good chance that it was originally an automatic as well. Since you're experienced with cars, you know the usual obvious ways to tell: non-factory floor cutouts, PRNDSL on the speedo, etc.
If you're just looking to throw it together and play with it, it may be a good candidate, but, as has been pointed out, if that's what you want, then you want to pay a "throw it together and play with it" price for it, and no more.
CollectorCarMarket gives the following prices for 1969 Cutlass Convertibles (I added the recommended 10% for the high-comp. 350):
#5- 1,725 #4- 4,840 #3- 8,570 #2- 14,765 #1- 20,185
That car looks like a #5 or less, and I agree that $1,500 is not out of line, but it also may be a bit high, depending on what else is out there, how the interior and mechanicals look, and how bad the deeper rot is.
Note that even if reasonably well restored (#1 ain't gonna happen in most people's worlds), it's worth less than $15,000, and there is easily more than $15,000 worth or work and parts involved in restoring that car.
Also note that you can probably get a #4, which is a nice, drivable car, for less than $5,000.
Let us know, and send us more pictures if you can.
- Eric
For whatever it's worth, remember that the big block (455 or 400) was never installed in any '69 Cutlass by the factory. 442s got 400s, but regular Cutlii did not, so if there is a big block in the car, it is non-original and will not add to the car's value as a collectible.
While there were plenty of A-bodies that came down the line with 4-speeds, since this engine sounds like it was swapped, there is a good chance that it was originally an automatic as well. Since you're experienced with cars, you know the usual obvious ways to tell: non-factory floor cutouts, PRNDSL on the speedo, etc.
If you're just looking to throw it together and play with it, it may be a good candidate, but, as has been pointed out, if that's what you want, then you want to pay a "throw it together and play with it" price for it, and no more.
CollectorCarMarket gives the following prices for 1969 Cutlass Convertibles (I added the recommended 10% for the high-comp. 350):
#5- 1,725 #4- 4,840 #3- 8,570 #2- 14,765 #1- 20,185
That car looks like a #5 or less, and I agree that $1,500 is not out of line, but it also may be a bit high, depending on what else is out there, how the interior and mechanicals look, and how bad the deeper rot is.
Note that even if reasonably well restored (#1 ain't gonna happen in most people's worlds), it's worth less than $15,000, and there is easily more than $15,000 worth or work and parts involved in restoring that car.
Also note that you can probably get a #4, which is a nice, drivable car, for less than $5,000.
Let us know, and send us more pictures if you can.
- Eric
#13
Looks like a solid project for no more
than 1750 max. As has been mentioned,
getting it street legal and parts are going
to get costly very quickly. It's nice that
you have a shop and a young go-getter
willing to help and to learn, sweet.
I wouldn't go 5 large though.
Welcome to CO. Good luck with whatever
you decide. It would be nice if someone such
as yourself could revive and enjoy this 69, they
are as sweet as wine...
than 1750 max. As has been mentioned,
getting it street legal and parts are going
to get costly very quickly. It's nice that
you have a shop and a young go-getter
willing to help and to learn, sweet.
I wouldn't go 5 large though.
Welcome to CO. Good luck with whatever
you decide. It would be nice if someone such
as yourself could revive and enjoy this 69, they
are as sweet as wine...
#14
Welcome to the site.
For whatever it's worth, remember that the big block (455 or 400) was never installed in any '69 Cutlass by the factory. 442s got 400s, but regular Cutlii did not, so if there is a big block in the car, it is non-original and will not add to the car's value as a collectible.
- Eric
For whatever it's worth, remember that the big block (455 or 400) was never installed in any '69 Cutlass by the factory. 442s got 400s, but regular Cutlii did not, so if there is a big block in the car, it is non-original and will not add to the car's value as a collectible.
- Eric
Looks like a solid project for no more
than 1750 max. As has been mentioned,
getting it street legal and parts are going
to get costly very quickly. It's nice that
you have a shop and a young go-getter
willing to help and to learn, sweet.
I wouldn't go 5 large though.
Welcome to CO. Good luck with whatever
you decide. It would be nice if someone such
as yourself could revive and enjoy this 69, they
are as sweet as wine...
than 1750 max. As has been mentioned,
getting it street legal and parts are going
to get costly very quickly. It's nice that
you have a shop and a young go-getter
willing to help and to learn, sweet.
I wouldn't go 5 large though.
Welcome to CO. Good luck with whatever
you decide. It would be nice if someone such
as yourself could revive and enjoy this 69, they
are as sweet as wine...
#16
Cars have gotten cheaper, but the cost of restoring them hasn't. I would look around a better car. That one has been outside for quite some time and it will be a bear to fix up. Note, I said fix up. I am not even going to use the word restore. Restore implies huge dollars and usually results in a car your afraid to set your drinks on for fear of scratching the clear coat. (No disrespect intended to those here with restored cars, I have a car that I don't eat or drink in as well.)
#17
Small block 350 4 speeds are a nice find. Even nicer in a vert. Things like bucket seats and a console are the most desireable options. There were little differences between a Cutlass and a 442 except the motor and the rear sway bar. Compareable Cutlass' and 442's are $10k - $15k apart in restored price though
Last edited by allyolds68; February 5th, 2013 at 04:16 PM.
#18
Purist
Cars have gotten cheaper, but the cost of restoring them hasn't. I would look around a better car. That one has been outside for quite some time and it will be a bear to fix up. Note, I said fix up. I am not even going to use the word restore. Restore implies huge dollars and usually results in a car your afraid to set your drinks on for fear of scratching the clear coat. (No disrespect intended to those here with restored cars, I have a car that I don't eat or drink in as well.)
#20
Good insight, I've had over 500 vehicles in my life. I currently have 17 vehicles, five of them Toyota Land Cruisers, 2 RV's etc. I have a nice little shop/garage with a bunch of big boy tools (blasting cabinets, posts, welders, hoists, paint guns yadda yadda). I'm not thinking of restoring it, just simply fixing the bondo areas, getting a new top, clear coating the current paint/rust and keeping the rusty patina. Making it a very usable, but original patina'd vehicle. Not quite rat rod, but original. My son who is 9 years old has his own 78 FJ40 that we are building together.... so I'm pretty much a redneck - house on wheels and cars ain't kinda guy.
I just don't know cutlass's and you guys and this site have given me a ton of insight into this car.
I hate the losing part, would hate to put too much money into this up front and 5k is too much right! Unless its got a muncie shifter, 455 etc?
Thanks!
I just don't know cutlass's and you guys and this site have given me a ton of insight into this car.
I hate the losing part, would hate to put too much money into this up front and 5k is too much right! Unless its got a muncie shifter, 455 etc?
Thanks!
I had a 77 FJ40 that I sold about 7 years ago.. what a great truck.
are you a forum member at ih8mud.com?
#21
3k might get in the garage and then next month you can do the brakes and clean out the gas tank, change fluids, etc. The following month you can do the exhaust, and on and on.
I am fixing my car month by month. I have only driven it twice in the first two months, but soon, it'll be my fair weather and weekend cruiser.
Although, i would recommend you find a hardtop or Holiday Coupe in better condition. I just bought this for 5K
I am fixing my car month by month. I have only driven it twice in the first two months, but soon, it'll be my fair weather and weekend cruiser.
Although, i would recommend you find a hardtop or Holiday Coupe in better condition. I just bought this for 5K
#22
3k might get in the garage and then next month you can do the brakes and clean out the gas tank, change fluids, etc. The following month you can do the exhaust, and on and on.
I am fixing my car month by month. I have only driven it twice in the first two months, but soon, it'll be my fair weather and weekend cruiser.
Although, i would recommend you find a hardtop or Holiday Coupe in better condition. I just bought this for 5K
I am fixing my car month by month. I have only driven it twice in the first two months, but soon, it'll be my fair weather and weekend cruiser.
Although, i would recommend you find a hardtop or Holiday Coupe in better condition. I just bought this for 5K
#23
Just from the pic's , it does not look very good.
Can you get more pic's of the whole car, such as side to side, front and back.?
Interior shots will tell us a lot more.
You need to check the floor pans, the trunk area for sure.
get under the hood and tell us what is there .
You said it runs and drives, do it and tell us your opinion, and was it around the block or just back and fourth in the yard.
Just think, tires, brakes, interior, new top, all fluids, carpet, convert top and maybe the motor and or fluid for it, it just goes on.
But if it meets what your standards and you want it, let us know how the progress is going.
We are all very big on pic's and up dates.
Gene
In looking at the pic's again, that tarp is not even covering anything at all, and the convert top has just as many holes also. be sure to check the floor pans.
Can you get more pic's of the whole car, such as side to side, front and back.?
Interior shots will tell us a lot more.
You need to check the floor pans, the trunk area for sure.
get under the hood and tell us what is there .
You said it runs and drives, do it and tell us your opinion, and was it around the block or just back and fourth in the yard.
Just think, tires, brakes, interior, new top, all fluids, carpet, convert top and maybe the motor and or fluid for it, it just goes on.
But if it meets what your standards and you want it, let us know how the progress is going.
We are all very big on pic's and up dates.
Gene
In looking at the pic's again, that tarp is not even covering anything at all, and the convert top has just as many holes also. be sure to check the floor pans.
Last edited by 64Rocket; February 5th, 2013 at 05:54 PM.
#24
Just from the pic's , it does not look very good.
Can you get more pic's of the whole car, such as side to side, front and back.?
Interior shots will tell us a lot more.
You need to check the floor pans, the trunk area for sure.
get under the hood and tell us what is there .
You said it runs and drives, do it and tell us your opinion, and was it around the block or just back and fourth in the yard.
Just think, tires, brakes, interior, new top, all fluids, carpet, convert top and maybe the motor and or fluid for it, it just goes on.
But if it meets what your standards and you want it, let us know how the progress is going.
We are all very big on pic's and up dates.
Gene
In looking at the pic's again, that tarp is not even covering anything at all, and the convert top has just as many holes also. be sure to check the floor pans.
Can you get more pic's of the whole car, such as side to side, front and back.?
Interior shots will tell us a lot more.
You need to check the floor pans, the trunk area for sure.
get under the hood and tell us what is there .
You said it runs and drives, do it and tell us your opinion, and was it around the block or just back and fourth in the yard.
Just think, tires, brakes, interior, new top, all fluids, carpet, convert top and maybe the motor and or fluid for it, it just goes on.
But if it meets what your standards and you want it, let us know how the progress is going.
We are all very big on pic's and up dates.
Gene
In looking at the pic's again, that tarp is not even covering anything at all, and the convert top has just as many holes also. be sure to check the floor pans.
UPDATE: I contacted the owner. It has bucket seats. Price flux?
#26
I agree, the tarp was removed to take pictures, their father passed away and they inherited it. The tarp actually looks newer (im in the tarp business) and I believe it covered the vehicle prior to taking pictures.
UPDATE: I contacted the owner. It has bucket seats. Price flux?
UPDATE: I contacted the owner. It has bucket seats. Price flux?
Console shift? A/C? Tilt? Elect windows?
Rally pac? Tic-tock-tac?
Any of these options will for certain, help
with the value.
#27
Good stuff I will look when I check it out. I hope to check it out this Saturday. I will not only get pictures, but will take a video as well. Unfortunately, I will have either turned down the car or have it in my shop before I post... doh. So either the 'I told you so' or 'atta boy' will happen when I post. You guys are great, thanks for all the help!
#28
[QUOTE=Mikesta;505310]Yes... to Ih8mud.com Just put an engine in a FJ62 and an engine in a FJ60. Need to button them up and flip them... probably this summer. Also picked up a rust bucket 55 that The guy was totally dishonest on. thats the breaks... you win some and lose some. Wife drives a 97 Lexus (land cruiser) LX450 with lockers, metaltech sliders, arb, warn upright winch and oversized tires. We also modified it to be towed behind our Class C diesel RV. Spent a year crossing the US 2011/12 and loved it. Son has a 78 FJ40.
I just checked out a bunch of your posts on mud. you did a great job on the FJ62 engine replacement.. I was close to buying an 89 FJ62 just for the heck of it last year. I wanted to do the FJ60 front light conversion on it, but never pulled the trigger...
MY advice to you is pass on the Cutlass and focus on the FJ40
I just checked out a bunch of your posts on mud. you did a great job on the FJ62 engine replacement.. I was close to buying an 89 FJ62 just for the heck of it last year. I wanted to do the FJ60 front light conversion on it, but never pulled the trigger...
MY advice to you is pass on the Cutlass and focus on the FJ40
#29
[QUOTE=LI Olds;505340]
I just checked out a bunch of your posts on mud. you did a great job on the FJ62 engine replacement.. I was close to buying an 89 FJ62 just for the heck of it last year. I wanted to do the FJ60 front light conversion on it, but never pulled the trigger...
MY advice to you is pass on the Cutlass and focus on the FJ40
If you want to get a good laugh in search 'ghetto fab'. I have already considered this, but the FJ40 isn't mine, its my boys... I need something. And I just ordered sliders for it and will pull it in the garage and put the top through the blaster and in primer / paint in the next few months. The kid is 8 so I have 8 years to complete it together and he needs to put his money into it too.
I just checked out a bunch of your posts on mud. you did a great job on the FJ62 engine replacement.. I was close to buying an 89 FJ62 just for the heck of it last year. I wanted to do the FJ60 front light conversion on it, but never pulled the trigger...
MY advice to you is pass on the Cutlass and focus on the FJ40
#30
My oldest son is into the "IH" and scout's.
He has a '69 FJ40 for sale, but no original engine and trans. He has 3.8 v6 and sm420 to go with it.
He also just sold a FJ55 w/chevy.
Gene
He has a '69 FJ40 for sale, but no original engine and trans. He has 3.8 v6 and sm420 to go with it.
He also just sold a FJ55 w/chevy.
Gene
#32
#34
Well... update - there is no update. She is having a hard time obtaining the title and doesn't want to show it till she has it. That's fine. Good things come to those that can wait... or don't come at all.
#35
I haven't waited around though.... since a few of you know I'm a land cruiser guy. Picked up a 96 Lexus LX450 with the K294 axle code (stock locking differential) for $1500 today. Was supposed to have a blown engine. It didn't. There was a completely detached air flow sensor hose and a detached cable. Spent an hour figuring this out, went to toyota an purchased $99.43 worth of parts and now have a $7k vehicle. I know cruisers, but don't know Olds so I really appreciate your comments. Still hope to snag this. Wish me luck
Last edited by Mikesta; February 21st, 2013 at 07:25 PM.
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