Overheating my 65
#1
Overheating my 65
Bought me a 65 Olds F 85 with a 1968 , 350 V8 30 over with a Lunatic mild cam. It runs hot 230,got a new aluminum radiator with a shroud and electric fan 1900 cfm, ,nothing, got worse, heads out resurfaced, all new, nothing, water pump new, nothing, thermostat new, nothing,. Idle climbs up to 230 in about 30 minutes.
Driving it 230 in about 13 minutes.
It is an actual car but it is not hooked.
compression test 120 to 125 every cylinder.
Any ideas?
Driving it 230 in about 13 minutes.
It is an actual car but it is not hooked.
compression test 120 to 125 every cylinder.
Any ideas?
#3
Just a thought, is the temperature sender compatible with the gauge?.
Does it puke coolant when you shut it down?.
Are you running ethanol blended gas?.
Let's dig this up and bury it again; Have you tried a stock clutch fan?.
Roger
Does it puke coolant when you shut it down?.
Are you running ethanol blended gas?.
Let's dig this up and bury it again; Have you tried a stock clutch fan?.
Roger
#4
Thanks for the input.
The answers to the best of my abilities,
Acceleration Distributor
Edelbrok 4 barrel
180 thermostat
Timing, no clue
New Monster Cooling 3 core aluminum radiator with a shroud and a 16 " 1,900 air moving volume
I know is pulling from radiator towards engine
I think that's it.
thank you for the response
Victor
Acceleration Distributor
Edelbrok 4 barrel
180 thermostat
Timing, no clue
New Monster Cooling 3 core aluminum radiator with a shroud and a 16 " 1,900 air moving volume
I know is pulling from radiator towards engine
I think that's it.
thank you for the response
Victor
#6
Test with another known good gauge even if you need to purchase another gauge & sender. This is step one...verify the temp is the actual temp.
You need to know where the timing is. 10-12 BTDC is a good start.
How deep is the fan into the shroud? The blades should be 1/2 way into the shroud. If you still have a mechanical fan attached?
Are the belts tight?
Is the pump a factory Olds pump?
What PSI cap are you using?
Automatic or Stick transmission?
Are you using coolant? Or is it just ebb/flow on the overflow bottle?
Is the coolant mixed 50/50 using distilled water?
So you get the same results regardless if your idling or at highway speeds?
Snap a pic of the pump and belts as well as the radiator.
You need to know where the timing is. 10-12 BTDC is a good start.
How deep is the fan into the shroud? The blades should be 1/2 way into the shroud. If you still have a mechanical fan attached?
Are the belts tight?
Is the pump a factory Olds pump?
What PSI cap are you using?
Automatic or Stick transmission?
Are you using coolant? Or is it just ebb/flow on the overflow bottle?
Is the coolant mixed 50/50 using distilled water?
So you get the same results regardless if your idling or at highway speeds?
Snap a pic of the pump and belts as well as the radiator.
#8
Problem still
So I wrote about my 65 F 85 overheating.
will the distributor or timing make a car overheat? I have change all cooling parts.
thanks
Victor
will the distributor or timing make a car overheat? I have change all cooling parts.
thanks
Victor
Last edited by My65Oldsf85; August 20th, 2017 at 05:43 PM.
#11
I merged your 2 threads and moved it to the engine forum. I already mentioned that timing and lean fuel conditions can cause overheating and asked distributor is installed and setting your running. We cannot help you until you post a pic of your distributor and tell us what your timing is. Also need some pictures of your radiator, fan, shroud setup.
#12
4 row radiator and a mechanical fan, high flow 180 t-stat helps as well, here in the desert I played that game, even with 2 3,000 cfm fans and and a 4 row would not do it. Another tip is be sure to run dist. to manifold vacuum and not ported. At idle you want 45 degrees advance to help cool it.
#15
Those electric fans may not be worth a crap. Even still, running down the road, they shouldn't be needed to stay cool, only in traffic. I would pull the thermostat and go from there.
#16
I have a 65 Cutlass F 85 as well it has a Olds 403 w 350 heads 65cc chambers. it runs hot just like what your saying . much the same type of repairs and mods . my compression is higher 160 167 ps i im going to pull some timing out of it and change the set up on the carb - carter 750 rods and jets run it a little richer , plugs look whiter than I like needs to be more of a tan color . that's my 2 cents
#17
I have a 65 Cutlass F 85 as well it has a Olds 403 w 350 heads 65cc chambers. it runs hot just like what your saying . much the same type of repairs and mods . my compression is higher 160 167 ps i im going to pull some timing out of it and change the set up on the carb - carter 750 rods and jets run it a little richer , plugs look whiter than I like needs to be more of a tan color . that's my 2 cents
#18
Is it boiling over when idling? If not I wouldn't worry too much, 220 degrees won't hurt it. Have you checked to ma sure your thermostat is opening fully. Like I said a fresh rebuild will run hot, especially at idle, until it is broken in.
#24
Maybe it's that Lunatic cam he says he is running. 😂 If you see him again tell him to ditch the electric fans and go back to a stock fan with a heavy duty fan clutch. Thats what fixed my car.
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