Converting 66 to dual master
#2
I’d retrofit from the closest year which bolts up which is probably 1967, but be sure to get a drum/drum dual circuit master. I’m fairly certain many years of GM dual masters will bolt up, it’s really more a question of space in the engine compartment. Of which, hey, there’s a lot! If you can’t find a ‘67 or so Olds Toro, check Caddy, Pontiac and the rest of the GM family.
Also you might want to put in an adjustable proportioning valve to set the front rear brake bias. Years ago I blew a hose on my single master ‘66 98. That was an unpleasant & exciting ride.
As an aside, I have an old 1966 Car Life magazine where they contemporarily disparaged the ‘66 Toro drum/drum brake system knocking it for heavy fading according to the standards of the time. Judging yesterday’s cars by today’s standards isn’t fair, but it was interesting to see that the press give Olds a hard time publicly at the Toro’s release. Please don’t interpret this as any kind of Toro hate, it was just interesting.
If you’re using the car as a driver, give some consideration to upgrading the brakes to the disk/drum system they used in the later 60’s. Traffic is worse now and most cars on the road stop quicker than you. I’m a believer in leaving lots of space between something rare and the car in front of you, but lotsa times here in CA some jerk just cuts in and you’re back in unsafe distance once again.
You’ll see from my posts I’ve got a couple of ‘66 big cars, I’ve added front discs to both and am very happy about the upgrade. I’m not sure how easy it is to find everything between the control arms, but can confirm this is a good fix.
Having said all that, the first step on this road if you go incremental is a very smart one. Get that dual master cylinder. Consider replacing the rubber lines and check the wheel cylinders at that time just be sure it’s all as good as it can be.
Cheers
cf
Also you might want to put in an adjustable proportioning valve to set the front rear brake bias. Years ago I blew a hose on my single master ‘66 98. That was an unpleasant & exciting ride.
As an aside, I have an old 1966 Car Life magazine where they contemporarily disparaged the ‘66 Toro drum/drum brake system knocking it for heavy fading according to the standards of the time. Judging yesterday’s cars by today’s standards isn’t fair, but it was interesting to see that the press give Olds a hard time publicly at the Toro’s release. Please don’t interpret this as any kind of Toro hate, it was just interesting.
If you’re using the car as a driver, give some consideration to upgrading the brakes to the disk/drum system they used in the later 60’s. Traffic is worse now and most cars on the road stop quicker than you. I’m a believer in leaving lots of space between something rare and the car in front of you, but lotsa times here in CA some jerk just cuts in and you’re back in unsafe distance once again.
You’ll see from my posts I’ve got a couple of ‘66 big cars, I’ve added front discs to both and am very happy about the upgrade. I’m not sure how easy it is to find everything between the control arms, but can confirm this is a good fix.
Having said all that, the first step on this road if you go incremental is a very smart one. Get that dual master cylinder. Consider replacing the rubber lines and check the wheel cylinders at that time just be sure it’s all as good as it can be.
Cheers
cf
#3
While the 1967 M/C and booster will swap in, it's easier to just use the M/C from a 1962-66 Cadillac. These were dual circuit and will bolt to your existing power booster. The 67 M/C requires a booster with a short pushrod and will not bolt up, which is why you have to use the matching 67 M/C and booster if you go that way.
This is the Caddy M/C, Raybestos MC36373 or equivalent. About $60 at RockAuto.
This is the 1967 Toro booster and M/C.
This is the Caddy M/C, Raybestos MC36373 or equivalent. About $60 at RockAuto.
This is the 1967 Toro booster and M/C.
#5
No, the Cad booster won't work.
The whole point of my suggestion was that you didn't need to touch the booster, just swap the M/C for the Cad one. If you need a booster, just get the 67 Toro booster and M/C.
#7
It looks like finding a used one and having it rebuilt is about your only option. There is limited demand for this and it appears that no one makes new ones (or even stocks rebuilt ones) anymore. Any 67-70 Toro booster will work.
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