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Hello! I’m a young man who just bought a toronado that’s older than my father. I thought it would be a fun car to work on and learn everything I possibly can about these 70s big blocks. It runs and drive nicely, and I’ve had a few of my more knowledgeable friends look at it and they’ve told me a number of things about the vehicle. It’s a 455 rocket, 70,000 miles, mostly original with some modifications I couldn’t specify myself. I might have bit off more than I can chew with this one. I’d like some ideas about how I could possibly learn more about this great car. I was also wondering what kind of manual I should get, as the cars original manual has been lost permanently. Please ask any questions and I’ll give you the best answer I possibly can.
edit: I’ve added some pictures for your viewing pleasure:
Last edited by Chuggingv8; September 3rd, 2022 at 07:31 PM.
Purchase an ORIGINAL paperback (not a digital copy CD) of the 1973 Oldsmobile Chassis Service Manual. It is The Bible. Search Google, many good ones can be found on eBay.
Owners manual packages are out there. As stated, hardcopy of the 1973 Oldsmobile factory Chassis Service Manual and the 1973 GM Fisher Body Manual. Sales catalogs are good references too. If you really want to go deep, Service Guilds and Technical Bulletins binders often contain Toronado updates.
Toronado Owners Association www.toronado.org is a good resource as people there are always buying and selling parts, plus the group has technical advisors.
Several of us here have factory parts books covering your Toronado. Ask us first, because parts store databases can be notoriously "off". Most parts jockeys will not know what a Toronado is.
Once you understand how a Toronado works you will grow to love it. I have a 69 which even though has a different bodystyle, is very similar under the sheetmetal.
I called My local library and asked if they had a 73 toro manual in their automotive sect. I’m probably going to get a photocopy set of this entirely for cost effectiveness. I’ve been running the beast everyday since I bought it and it only runs smoother everytime. The stock qjet carb is leaking and I have a cracked exhaust donut. So those are the first two problems I will be addressing with my vehicle!
I called My local library and asked if they had a 73 toro manual in their automotive sect. I’m probably going to get a photocopy set of this entirely for cost effectiveness.
If you're going to make a photocopy set of the entire Chassis Service Manual from your local library prepare to open your wallet and dig deep, really, really, really deep. You'll be far, far ahead of the game if you purchase a complete original paperback OEM (used) 1973 CSM.
I got to thinking, I believe you may be referring to the simple Owner's Manual - yeah, you can probably photocopy an Owner's Manual w/o breaking the bank. It would help if you stated "what" manual you're talking about since there are many manuals: Owner's Manual, Chassis Service Manual, Fisher Body Service Manual, Product Information Manual (PIM) often referred to as the Factory Assembly Manual (FAM). Good Luck w/ the car! Have fun.
I called My local library and asked if they had a 73 toro manual in their automotive sect. I’m probably going to get a photocopy set of this entirely for cost effectiveness. I’ve been running the beast everyday since I bought it and it only runs smoother everytime. The stock qjet carb is leaking and I have a cracked exhaust donut. So those are the first two problems I will be addressing with my vehicle!
You'll go broke if you photocopy the whole CSM. It's over 2" thick. Do like Chief says and get your own original copy. Here's a whole set currently on ebay. You can probably get it for under $50 shipped, less if you make a lower offer and seller accepts it. It has: CSM, FBM, sales brochure and the glovebox stuff, though that appears to be for a Cutlass. https://www.ebay.com/itm/194018670579
Where is the carb leaking? Top gasket, fuel inlet? Do you think you have the mechanical skills to tackle that leaky carb? The CSM takes you thru a teardown and rebuild step by step.
Tell us where you are and someone may be close enough by they can help you.
Check the car's drive axles close to make the CV joint rubber boots haven't split and started leaking grease. A CV joint that runs out of grease isn't long for the world.
Last edited by rocketraider; September 5th, 2022 at 06:34 PM.
A bit more details about the current direction, apologies for the vague replies, I’ll get better I promise. Right now I have a carburetor leak on the front right side of the carb. It’s a qjet and I was told it came with the car and all my research points to this being the case. I also have a cracked exhaust donut that I’m replacing myself today. My generator light flickers while I’m in idle, so I will also be checking my alternator which is also original, and the belt that’s is a bit loose. But I figured out there is a bracket I will be adjusting it to tighten up that belt!
Referring back to the carb- I was thinking of getting a Holley 750 cfm and replacing my original carb. I’ve done My homework up to this point and it seems like the best bet for a daily driver meant for cruising. But lots of enthusiasts of the craft have advised me to rebuild my qjet. I’m just a bit nervous and I’ll be really upset with myself if I damage it. Replacing it also kind of feels like a cop out, as I bought this car to test my intelligence and mechanical skills.
No worries. Good on you for diving/digging. The CSM is what you need. Regarding the carburetor. I personally don't own a Toronado, but each Rochester Q-Jet has a unique number stamped into the carb. You can purchase rebuild kits which come with everything you need to rebuild the carb. Others may know the Q-Jet carb you have on your 1973, well, let's say others may know the original OEM carb which came from the factory. Only you can tell if it's an original OEM carb, or perhaps a replacement (of the same size) or a different carb. Best to find the number on the carb (easy to find), post the number of the carb (perhaps a picture of the carb), others will be able to assist you in procuring a rebuild kit. Rebuild kits are easy to work through. Good luck!
Check the car's drive axles close to make the CV joint rubber boots haven't split and started leaking grease. A CV joint that runs out of grease isn't long for the world.
I have not checked that but I will when I get underneath the car today and replace my exhaust donut. I appreciate the tip!
Can you post a picture with something pointing to the location of the fuel leak? Post your carb # to see if it is the correct/original carb. A CO member will know.
We posted at exactly the same time. Personally, I'd rebuilt the Q-Jet.
As far as rebuilding carburetors go. My only real concern would be tuning screws. I’m sure there’s a guide just for me. But it’s that vital step that’s a little nerve racking, maybe it’s just first time jitters. But if I can’t do it I’ve read on this forum there are kind folks with better equipment willing to help.
As far as rebuilding carburetors go. My only real concern would be tuning screws. I’m sure there’s a guide just for me. But it’s that vital step that’s a little nerve racking, maybe it’s just first time jitters. But if I can’t do it I’ve read on this forum there are kind folks with better equipment willing to help.
You're not looking at a high performance tune/build for the carburetor on your car - high performance i.e. racing, etc. - you want a daily driver good build and tune. You can do that w/ a vacuum gauge or you can very easily tune your A/F mixture screws the old-fashioned way by simply increasing RPM while you perform the A/F mixture screw adjustments. Plenty of hardy folks to help you out. No worries.
A bit more details about the current direction, apologies for the vague replies, I’ll get better I promise. Right now I have a carburetor leak on the front right side of the carb. It’s a qjet and I was told it came with the car and all my research points to this being the case. I also have a cracked exhaust donut that I’m replacing myself today. My generator light flickers while I’m in idle,so I will also be checking my alternator which is also original, and the belt that’s is a bit loose. But I figured out there is a bracket I will be adjusting it to tighten up that belt!
Generator light flicker at idle speed could be:
1. Slipping belt.
2. Idle RPM's to slow. Tighten belts and check for Generator light flicker. If still flickering at idle speed, check RPM and adjust to factory specs.
Originally Posted by Chuggingv8
Referring back to the carb- I was thinking of getting a Holley 750 cfm and replacing my original carb. I’ve done My homework up to this point and it seems like the best bet for a daily driver meant for cruising. But lots of enthusiasts of the craft have advised me to rebuild my qjet. I’m just a bit nervous and I’ll be really upset with myself if I damage it. Replacing it also kind of feels like a cop out, as I bought this car to test my intelligence and mechanical skills.
Everyone that is advising you to overhaul the Q-jet is trying to help you. Replacing your Q-jet with some "off breed" carb like a Holley opens a can of worms that you didn't uncover in your research.
1. What parts do you need for installing the off breed carb on the manifold ?
2. What parts and cable do you need to open throttle ?
3. What size jets will the "New" carb need ?
4. Will you use: No choke ? Electric choke ? Manual choke " ?
5. Can you "read" spark plugs to determine if the jetting on the "new carb" is close correct ?
Don't take this harshly. You have things to learn, why not start easy with general maintenance, overhauling the Q-jet and having fun with the car.
The valid concern over tuning a carb is the exact reason to stick with a factory carb at this point. The idle mixture is only the tip of the iceberg, on the factory carb the rest of the iceberg is already done, not so on an aftermarket carb. Also Toro's use a sunken/lowered intake to make everything fit under the carb along with special linkages again not so on an aftermarket.
Trust us on this one, stick with the Qjet at this point. Olds made that carb specifically tuned to your engine option, it isn't a fits all close enough situation.
After due consideration and thought on what everyone has said. I’ve decided to go through and find my carb stamp. 7030785 is the stamped number I found and it’s the number the guide I followed was pointing towards.
Also, I’m this is where I noticed liquid pooling under the carburetor, smelled like gasoline, I believe this area is under the vacuum break. the float bowl assembly may be the issue. Okay
The carburetor number is located on the LH (driver side) towards the back of the carburetor. The numbers run (align) vertically (see red ellipse image below and several others by example). I believe that is the date/clock time stamp of the forged casting number you have posted.
BTW, I am NOT demonstrating the actual number of a 1973 Toronado 455 Rochester Q-Jet carburetor - only the LOCATION of the carburetor number.
You're close. That's the air horn casting number. Look at the driver side rear corner of the carb's float bowl. You should see a number like 7043252 stamped into it vertically. That's the carb application number and you need it to order the new carburetor kit and float.
Right now biggest object I see to rebuilding the carb yourself is a means to clean it internally.
You're not looking for brand spanking new, you're looking for a very clean carburetor. A couple spray cans of Brakleen, perhaps a set of carb brushes, and a can of (any brand) choke cleaner will clean that carb up great.
A shop compressor if you have one to blow out all passage ways. You're good.
You can most likely purchase a carb rebuild kit from any of your available automotive parts supply stores nearby. You can also purchase one on-line from various vendors. If you're in the dark regarding which one, pick up the phone and call them. They love talking about their rebuild kits - in particular Cliff Ruggles. That way when you give them your carb part number (which they've most likely worked on a thousand times previously) you can have confidence you're buying the correct rebuilt kit. Here are my suggestions for on-line purchases. Quadrajet Power is an on-line service ONLY, but you can find the correct kit with the carb number 7043252. There are others - do your homework. If you call Cliff - he'll talk your ear off.
Also, I’m this is where I noticed liquid pooling under the carburetor, smelled like gasoline, I believe this area is under the vacuum break. the float bowl assembly may be the issue. Okay
First, see if you can snug the hex head bolts and the slotted screws any. That might slow a leak, but my money says that carb hasn't been touched since 1973.
The thing you have your finger on is an idle stop solenoid. It increases idle speed or allows throttle plates to close off further depending on year and application. It should not be subjected to any carb cleaner or solvent.
The lever and shiny vertical shaft above your hand is the accelerator pump. Possible the rubber seal might be leaking a little.
Your little finger is on the fuel filter housing. Looks like someone's used vise-grip pliers on the flare nut. You need to be careful with the housing to avoid stripping out the inlet threads, which can quickly ruin yer day as well as the carburetor.
September 3rd, 2022, 06:23 PM
